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91 Points

Wednesday, September 9, 2015 - A saignée rosé Champagne made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes macerated for 48 to 72 hours, depending on the vintage. Aged for a minimum of 5 years in bottles on the lees before disgorging.

Relatively deep rosé color of onion skin hue turning towards subtle bronze. The nose feels quite rich and powerful with an overhanging note of reductive gunpowder smoke, revealing nuanced aromas of ripe red cherries, earthy Pinosity, some cranberries and a hint of toasty autolysis underneath. Overall the nose feels more fruit-forward than autolytic. The wine is dry, acid-driven and medium-bodied on the palate with intense flavors of steely minerality, ripe dark cherries, tart redcurrants, some lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of tart green apples, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. The mousse feels very aggressive and fizzy, but also impressively lengthy. The high acidity lends good sense of structure for the wine. The finish is lean and racy with very acid-driven flavors of tart citrus fruits, steely minerality, spicy Pinosity, some juicy raspberry and sweeter cherry notes, a little bit of tart redcurrants and a hint of autolytic mocha character.

A wine representing bigger, deeper and more vinous style than your average Champagne rosé. I enjoy this kind of hefty style pretty much, but I really could've used a bit more toasty complexity: now the wine is very fruit-forward and structure-driven, but showing very little depth beyond that crunchy Pinosity. Fortunately the wine is structured and racy with lovely, incisive minerality, which make the wine feel both very balanced and promising in regards to aging it in a cellar. Overall the wine feels still very youthful and I guess it could gain some welcome complexity with additional cellaring - at least it feels like the wine is built for it.

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