wrote:

93 Points

Wednesday, January 9, 2019 - NDG: 9/1/19 dinner with Magnums of 9 to celebrate the start of 2019 (Imperial Treasure Teochew, Ion): From a magnum disgorged in 2004, this was very pleasant and drinking quite well now. I liked the nose - gentle but insistent, with lovely draws of ripe lemons, yeast and flinty mineral, and just that kiss of white flowers at the edge of the bouquet. This smelt like something quite a bit younger, with only an edge of tertiary earthiness hinting at its maturity. A result of the zero dosage I think - hence no biscuity, nutty, caramel tones even at its age. The palate was impressive, full of quiet strength in its white fruit and mineral character pulled along on a beautiful, sinewy stream of bright, lemony acidity and fine-beaded mousse into a long stony finish. There was a generosity to the fruit, yet a backbone of lovely purity and laser-like precision. It still showed ever so youthfully though, with a real sense of energy and tension at its core - it actually took quite a bit of time to open up. Very good, but will get even better, but the zero dosage really comes out in the style. This is a world away from an Krug or Dom Perignon.

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