By Terry Theise
(NV RenĂ© Geoffroy "Expression" Brut) ($56.00) This used to be a party-girl kind of Champagne, easy to have fun with, and so you were surprised to learn she was a straight-A student. Following the cheesy metaphor, now she’s in grad school and discovered that to maintain her grades she had to party a lot less. Basically, the wine has completed a transformation to something More Serious. Now 30% ’07 and 70% ’08, or rather, soon to be. What we’re currently selling is a 10/10 disgorgement that’s still cheerful and swank. This new guy is awaiting a final decision as to its dosage. It had three grams less than the current wine. It “worked” in its drier form, but in a significantly different way; still doughy and shiitake-ish but markedly more….call it masculine.2011 Champagne Catalog, 6/1/2011, (See more on Terry Theise Estate Selections...)