By Terry Theise
(NV Vilmart & Cie "CuvĂ©e Grand Cellier" Brut) ($79.00) 50% ’08, and 25% each ’07-’06. 70%PN/30%CH. Disgorged 4/10. The wine has always been excellent, but it used to be more starched and not entirely knit, and now it’s silkier. This is certainly among the very best of the last fifteen years, with the clinging flower of ’08 and the warm, honeyed ’06 dancing in graceful counterpoint. Mirabelles and apple sauce against lavender and wisteria, a little more springy than usual, with a refined, incense-y finish.2011 Champagne Catalog, 6/1/2011, (See more on Terry Theise Estate Selections...)