(Leitz Eins Zwei Dry Riesling "3") ($18.00) CORE-LIST WINE. I just heard about the pun I should have thought of: no vier. Funny, and apropos, because this is the safe-zone for dry German Riesling. And of course Leitz was the man to do it. I don’t know how he understands that dry Riesling needs to be tasty and juicy and not just cerebral and spiky. But he does. It helps that the fruit comes from a Grand Cru in Geisenheim called Rothenberg. In effect a mini-GG at an everyday price. Mind you, the lease is soon up on that climat and the wine will revert to Rüdesheim in another couple years. But I’m sure it won’t miss a beat. Meanwhile this is another classic, with its plum, rhubarb and redcurrant fruit, juicy spicy mid-palate, and sappy rock-dust finish, which was clipped from very recent bottling (hence my hedging the plus), but this wine’s always better in the Summer, and remember – no vier. (+)
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By Gary Walsh
(Leitz Eins Zwei Dry 3 Rheingau Riesling Trocken) Login and subscribe to see review text.6/29/2013, (See more on The WINEFRONT...)