View From the Cellar
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By John Gilman
(Chardonnay “Durant Vineyard”- Goodfellow (Dundee Hills)) Login and sign up and see review text.
Jan/Feb 2020, Issue #85, Recently-Tasted Old School And Neo-Classical American Wines
Full Pull
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By Paul Zitarelli
(Goodfellow Chardonnay Durant Vineyard) Hello friends. The last few years here at Full Pull have proven a trove of Pinot delights. The latest treats come from a winery that’s new to us—but a winemaker who has become a favorite in many Willamette Valley circles. Marcus Goodfellow is probably best known to many of our list members as the man behind Matello Winery. He launched Matello in 2002 after he spent time working with the folks at Evesham Wood and Westrey, and for the first few years, he made his own wine tucked away in a little corner at Westrey (good place for wine-knowledge osmosis!). He then moved to a co-op facility, and then his own facility in 2011. In 2014, he launched Goodfellow Family Cellars. Marcus’ winemaking has long been praised, but his eponymous label allows him to take a step further and focus singularly on his passion for unique, beautiful vineyard sites. He is a stickler for conscientious farming, only working with non-irrigated, sustainably farmed grapes from growers he knows and trusts. Today, we have three single-vineyard bottlings for you, all sourced from different vineyards that Marcus works with. This may only be a snapshot of his winery, but it illustrates the sheer talent that exists behind the helm of this project—and what that talent can do with thoughtfully farmed grapes. This is among the most impressive lineups we’ve tasted out of Oregon in the past year or two—one that once we tasted, we had no choice but to offer. I truly hope you all enjoy these as much as we do. The first vineyard up is Durant. Durant Vineyard lays atop a gentle east-west slope in the heart of the Dundee Hills. Marcus sources Pinot Noir from the mid-point of the hill, but it’s the vineyard’s Chardonnay that blew us away at our latest tasting. The volcanic soils there—famous for distinct mineral content—don’t just grow distinctive Pinot. They also grow distinctive Chardonnay. The 2016 Goodfellow Chardonnay is sourced from a section of Dijon vines planted in 1993. It spent 22 months in French oak and clocks in with 13% list alcohol. It opens with a bountiful nose that showcases golden apples, lime zest, chervil, macadamia, and just a touch of lemon meringue. There’s an extreme minerality throughout. The palate expertly walks the tightrope between delicate and plentiful. It’s kept bright with soaring acidity, but for me, the most fascinating intricacies lie within its texture. It’s effortlessly elegant, vibrant, and pure. A wonderful expression of Oregon Chardonnay. There are no reviews yet, but it seems notable that the 2014 vintage received 95+ points from Wine Advocate, yet the 2016 is Goodfellow’s favorite vintage yet.
Full Pull Goodfellow, 3/18/2019
By Josh Raynolds
(Goodfellow Family Cellars Chardonnay Durant Vineyard Oregon White) Login and sign up and see review text.Oregon Outside the Pinot Noir Box (Sep 2020), 9/1/2020, (See more on Vinous...)