(MIRAMAR Riesling CASA MARIN) Casa Marin - IMPORTANT/LONG Dear Friends, We've had a few important offers lately but this is worthy of the designation and then some. When I find a true pioneer that has gone above and beyond the call of duty, it is my pleasure to make the introduction. I've been watching Casa Marin, Chile's renegade winery, for a number of years and it's a property I've hoped would achieve great things. In my world, it's tough not to root for an artistic groundbreaker, especially when that person is a Chilean woman that reminds me of a cross between Georgia O'Keefe and Diego Rivera. Tough in spirit, driven and true to her passion as a renegade among the giants, Maria Luz Marin is the type of person most of us would want to be friends with regardless if wine was involved or not. My only problem that the vinous results have never been quite strong enough to garner my highest praise. The story of the winery is terrific, the effort has always been there (with nearly universal scores/praise to match from the critics) but the experimental winemaking was not quite on-point enough to make this something Garagiste would stand behind. Scores are not enough for me; I need the substance in the bottle and the philosophy of the winemaker to reflect the finished wine. That being said, Casa Marin's time is now and they are finally ready to say hello to the upper-tier they've reached for. The promise has been realized and, along with Silvia Imparato (Montevetrano) and other stand-out, independent woman-owned wineries in the world, Maria Luz Marin is ready to assume to role of Chile's greatest winemaker/owner (not Chile's greatest woman winemaker, I said "Chile's greatest winemaker"). Even though she is aided by others in the production of the wines, she makes the call when the chips are down and her reputation is already one of the most influential and innovative in the South American wine industry. Her dedication to the heritage of the poets and artists in the area is admirable and Jancis Robinson has lauded her ability and determination and when asked about her most basic character traits Maria will tell you "resilience, passion and endurance". Think Motorcycle Diaries with a woman at the helm. Casa Marin is a beautiful place. It has been called "the most radical vineyard site in the country" by Wine and Spirits (a publication that has basically anointed Casa Marin as the finest winery in the Southern Hemisphere, or close to it). This is not commercial wine country - it is surrounded by the coastal mountains and only a few kilometers from the ocean (it is the closest winery to the Pacific Ocean in South America - think of a vineyard perched above Hwy 1 near Big Sur and you will be close) - it is a cold climate similar to the Sonoma Coast where Marcassin and Kistler have their finest holdings and the rolling hills are much the same. Fog can be a big influence and the heating degree days are close to what we have in California. The difference? The terroir. The Lo Abarca hills and this region possess virgin minerality mixed with patches of dense lime, sand, clay and other patchwork elements that give the winemaker a variety of soil types to paint a picture. These are very steep, wild hillsides in places that stretch toward the ocean - you almost feel as though Easter Island is within reach. It is hot and cold, rugged and remote - frightening in the way the purest wilderness can reach up and make you take a quick deep breath. Maria Luz Marin set out to prove that Chilean wine can be as expressive, unique and full of terroir and interest as the greatest wines in the world. She wishes to leave the past behind and the pesticide-riddled bargain notion of what the Chilean wine industry is all about - this is a woman that would be revered in any country and her wines would be among the very best anywhere she placed her roots. Thankfully, those roots have been placed in Lo Abarca. What about the wines? Below you will find a selection of the new releases and all have been praised or highly decorated by one voice or another - all are worthy of exploration (Decanter has called the winery a "New World Icon of Tomorrow" but I would say they are already here). I've decided to use the reviews of Patricio Tapia as he is considered one of the most knowledgeable voices on Chilean wines (his reviews are printed in the US in Wine & Spirits) but Josh Raynolds certainly captures the spirit of the winery as well with detailed and very accurate verbiage on the wines. In addition to the critical speak, I've tried to include the comments of Maria Luz Marin as well as my own (Des = Descorchados, an influential publication in South America). All of the wines are quite limited and only 12,000 bottles in total were produced. As a rule, these are not lithe, low-alcohol examples but they transcend the obvious and pre-conceived notions of what the New World produces. The Pyramid Valley of South America? Please note: these are not the Cartagena, that is a less expensive range. 2006 Casa Marin "Laurel Vineyard" Sauvignon Blanc This area has become synonymous with cold-climate varietals (both red and white) and Sauvignon Blanc is its signature. I though it would be interesting to compare and contrast two vintages of the Laurel Vineyard, 2006 and 2007. In general, 2007 is more favorable than 2006 but you'd never know by tasting the two wines. This is the most famous vineyard in the portfolio and its warm/cold personality is obvious when you taste the wines. It is quite windy and the soil is very poor - the soil had never been cultivated prior to planting vines and only indigenous wild vegetation was there. Fog influences this vineyard until the afternoon during half the growing season. I would characterize the Laurel as Pouilly Fume meets Marlborough meets La Abarca seen through the eyes of a poetic visionary - it is no wilting flower - this wine has power and presence: 2007 Casa Marin "Laurel Vineyard" Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Laurel Vineyard is VERY RARE! 2007 Casa Marin "Cipreses Vineyard" Sauvignon Blanc This is the wine that made Casa Marin one of the more sought after unknown producers in the world. 95pts? Yikes. How many versions of Sancerre receive 95pts? I have to say, this wine is the real thing - it represents a cold-climate essence of its place and while not a light-bodied example or low in alcohol, it is still bursting with crystalline and tactile spikes and shards of glass. This site is extremely windy and the vines only yield one bottle per plant. This is more Sancerre to the Laurel Vineyard's Pouilly Fume but both show a more unctuous, exotic twist that gives them their own character. One of the highest rated wines ever from Chile, the winery is justly proud. The 2007 Cipreses was rated the best white wine in Chile by Descorchados (all varietals): 2007 Casa Marin "Casona Vineyard" Gewurztraminer Gewurztraminer is such a tough grape to pull off. It is temperamental, prone to high alcohol and shows its imbalance quicker than most. The best examples allow the grape to ripen but still capture the necessary natural acidity to match - that is the case here. The Casona is a dry wine with loads of character but it is not for those seeking a light, afternoon tea experience. Those that are partial to the floral influence of this grape will be surprised by the aromatic take that the Chilean coast delivers. 2007 Casa Marin "Miramar Vineyard" Riesling This is the first time this wine has made its way to the US and it's high-octane personality will win many fans. A dry Riesling, akin to Alsace meets the Pacific coast of Chile, the Miramar Vineyard produces very small berries that are quite concentrated and give off notes of petrol, sour apple and fresh flowers. It has excellent natural acidity, style and is loaded with the virgin minerality that Casa Marin is trying to harness in each of their wines. This is a distinctive example that shows what Riesling can do in the right climate regardless if it's from Colmar or the Mosel. Should be well received by the critics but I'm not sure any is coming to the US other than this parcel? VERY RARE - would be an interesting blind wine for your tasting group. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Chile2000 Chile2100 Chile2200 Chile2300 Chile2400
By Jon Rimmerman
(MIRAMAR Riesling CASA MARIN) Casa Marin - IMPORTANT/LONG Dear Friends, We've had a few important offers lately but this is worthy of the designation and then some. When I find a true pioneer that has gone above and beyond the call of duty, it is my pleasure to make the introduction. I've been watching Casa Marin, Chile's renegade winery, for a number of years and it's a property I've hoped would achieve great things. In my world, it's tough not to root for an artistic groundbreaker, especially when that person is a Chilean woman that reminds me of a cross between Georgia O'Keefe and Diego Rivera. Tough in spirit, driven and true to her passion as a renegade among the giants, Maria Luz Marin is the type of person most of us would want to be friends with regardless if wine was involved or not. My only problem that the vinous results have never been quite strong enough to garner my highest praise. The story of the winery is terrific, the effort has always been there (with nearly universal scores/praise to match from the critics) but the experimental winemaking was not quite on-point enough to make this something Garagiste would stand behind. Scores are not enough for me; I need the substance in the bottle and the philosophy of the winemaker to reflect the finished wine. That being said, Casa Marin's time is now and they are finally ready to say hello to the upper-tier they've reached for. The promise has been realized and, along with Silvia Imparato (Montevetrano) and other stand-out, independent woman-owned wineries in the world, Maria Luz Marin is ready to assume to role of Chile's greatest winemaker/owner (not Chile's greatest woman winemaker, I said "Chile's greatest winemaker"). Even though she is aided by others in the production of the wines, she makes the call when the chips are down and her reputation is already one of the most influential and innovative in the South American wine industry. Her dedication to the heritage of the poets and artists in the area is admirable and Jancis Robinson has lauded her ability and determination and when asked about her most basic character traits Maria will tell you "resilience, passion and endurance". Think Motorcycle Diaries with a woman at the helm. Casa Marin is a beautiful place. It has been called "the most radical vineyard site in the country" by Wine and Spirits (a publication that has basically anointed Casa Marin as the finest winery in the Southern Hemisphere, or close to it). This is not commercial wine country - it is surrounded by the coastal mountains and only a few kilometers from the ocean (it is the closest winery to the Pacific Ocean in South America - think of a vineyard perched above Hwy 1 near Big Sur and you will be close) - it is a cold climate similar to the Sonoma Coast where Marcassin and Kistler have their finest holdings and the rolling hills are much the same. Fog can be a big influence and the heating degree days are close to what we have in California. The difference? The terroir. The Lo Abarca hills and this region possess virgin minerality mixed with patches of dense lime, sand, clay and other patchwork elements that give the winemaker a variety of soil types to paint a picture. These are very steep, wild hillsides in places that stretch toward the ocean - you almost feel as though Easter Island is within reach. It is hot and cold, rugged and remote - frightening in the way the purest wilderness can reach up and make you take a quick deep breath. Maria Luz Marin set out to prove that Chilean wine can be as expressive, unique and full of terroir and interest as the greatest wines in the world. She wishes to leave the past behind and the pesticide-riddled bargain notion of what the Chilean wine industry is all about - this is a woman that would be revered in any country and her wines would be among the very best anywhere she placed her roots. Thankfully, those roots have been placed in Lo Abarca. What about the wines? Below you will find a selection of the new releases and all have been praised or highly decorated by one voice or another - all are worthy of exploration (Decanter has called the winery a "New World Icon of Tomorrow" but I would say they are already here). I've decided to use the reviews of Patricio Tapia as he is considered one of the most knowledgeable voices on Chilean wines (his reviews are printed in the US in Wine & Spirits) but Josh Raynolds certainly captures the spirit of the winery as well with detailed and very accurate verbiage on the wines. In addition to the critical speak, I've tried to include the comments of Maria Luz Marin as well as my own (Des = Descorchados, an influential publication in South America). All of the wines are quite limited and only 12,000 bottles in total were produced. As a rule, these are not lithe, low-alcohol examples but they transcend the obvious and pre-conceived notions of what the New World produces. The Pyramid Valley of South America? Please note: these are not the Cartagena, that is a less expensive range. 2006 Casa Marin "Laurel Vineyard" Sauvignon Blanc This area has become synonymous with cold-climate varietals (both red and white) and Sauvignon Blanc is its signature. I though it would be interesting to compare and contrast two vintages of the Laurel Vineyard, 2006 and 2007. In general, 2007 is more favorable than 2006 but you'd never know by tasting the two wines. This is the most famous vineyard in the portfolio and its warm/cold personality is obvious when you taste the wines. It is quite windy and the soil is very poor - the soil had never been cultivated prior to planting vines and only indigenous wild vegetation was there. Fog influences this vineyard until the afternoon during half the growing season. I would characterize the Laurel as Pouilly Fume meets Marlborough meets La Abarca seen through the eyes of a poetic visionary - it is no wilting flower - this wine has power and presence: 2007 Casa Marin "Laurel Vineyard" Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Laurel Vineyard is VERY RARE! 2007 Casa Marin "Cipreses Vineyard" Sauvignon Blanc This is the wine that made Casa Marin one of the more sought after unknown producers in the world. 95pts? Yikes. How many versions of Sancerre receive 95pts? I have to say, this wine is the real thing - it represents a cold-climate essence of its place and while not a light-bodied example or low in alcohol, it is still bursting with crystalline and tactile spikes and shards of glass. This site is extremely windy and the vines only yield one bottle per plant. This is more Sancerre to the Laurel Vineyard's Pouilly Fume but both show a more unctuous, exotic twist that gives them their own character. One of the highest rated wines ever from Chile, the winery is justly proud. The 2007 Cipreses was rated the best white wine in Chile by Descorchados (all varietals): 2007 Casa Marin "Casona Vineyard" Gewurztraminer Gewurztraminer is such a tough grape to pull off. It is temperamental, prone to high alcohol and shows its imbalance quicker than most. The best examples allow the grape to ripen but still capture the necessary natural acidity to match - that is the case here. The Casona is a dry wine with loads of character but it is not for those seeking a light, afternoon tea experience. Those that are partial to the floral influence of this grape will be surprised by the aromatic take that the Chilean coast delivers. 2007 Casa Marin "Miramar Vineyard" Riesling This is the first time this wine has made its way to the US and it's high-octane personality will win many fans. A dry Riesling, akin to Alsace meets the Pacific coast of Chile, the Miramar Vineyard produces very small berries that are quite concentrated and give off notes of petrol, sour apple and fresh flowers. It has excellent natural acidity, style and is loaded with the virgin minerality that Casa Marin is trying to harness in each of their wines. This is a distinctive example that shows what Riesling can do in the right climate regardless if it's from Colmar or the Mosel. Should be well received by the critics but I'm not sure any is coming to the US other than this parcel? VERY RARE - would be an interesting blind wine for your tasting group. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Chile2000 Chile2100 Chile2200 Chile2300 Chile24006/4/2008, (See more on Garagiste...)