(Gaston Chiquet "Spécial Club") ($74.00) A new disgorgement 7/09; as always it shows its meso-terroir, and now its evolving a deep green pool of sorrel and balsam and green tea to go with the talc and chalk and mirabelle and pistachio and apple-beignet; it’s showing the embryo of its mature flavor (as many 2000s do), and a Chablis-like brothiness. Often this wine strikes me as comparable to Clos de Goisses, albeit not as splendid. But it’s pure terroir, not about the proportions of the varieties.
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By Brad Baker
(Gaston Chiquet Spécial Club) Login and sign up and see review text.March 2011, Issue #10, Champagne Tasting Notes