Garagiste
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By Jon Rimmerman
(SARDUS PATER Arruga) Sardus Dear Friends, We had one chance at this wine today (they don't realize it's Memorial Day weekend in Italy) so I took it - I've been trying to obtain a parcel of this since October so here you go - what has been one of the toughest wines for me to acquire from a winery that is going to be a major player. I rarely quote myself but that's exactly what I'm going to do by reprinting our offer for the 2005 Sardus Pater Kanai Riserva we offered last year. I predicted this winery would rise quickly on the world stage and (after the recent WA reviews from Antonio Galloni) they are well on their way. While the original offer below is for the Kanai Riserva, the facts remain the same for the winery - the example we offer today (their top cuvee - the Arruga) ups the ante to an improbable level. In addition, it is from 2004 and Sardinia had a similar 2004 vintage to Bolgheri (I don't need to beat a dead horse on the quality of 2004 in Bolgheri). Here goes, from my original offer for the Kanai: "What's it like to go to the Easter Island of the wine world? To sip from the pressed blood of what is probably the world's oldest set of contiguous grape vines? You can find out. The rest of the world is about to wake up to this emerging Sardinian source (if emerging can be 50+ years old - they started production in the 1940s) - the 2005 Kanai Riserva was just rated "Tre Bicchieri" by Gambero Rosso and I expect similar accolades to follow from the US powers that be. A small amount of this wine has made its way to central Europe but it's already so hard to find that most has ended up in restaurants (I would expect the same in the US if any makes it here). After a few merely good vintages (like 2003), the Kanai seems to have found its place in 2005 but the real story here is the source: possibly the oldest vineyard material on earth. From the improbable island of St. Antioco (a "holding" of Sardinia off the southwest reaches of the Sardinian mainland) comes this dry red wine from what can only be described as "ancient" sources. As Phyloxera tore through Europe, this remote island was left to fend for itself - it is the Darwinian vinous equivalent of Easter Island. Untouched, undisturbed and barely with modern amenities until recently - Phyloxera never made it here and the vines are some of the Old World's only pre-phylloxera, original rootstock examples that remain. When I use the term old, I mean really old - some as old as the Battle of Waterloo (1815) with a good number 150-170 years of age (the basic vines here are 80 years old - no, I'm not kidding). Can you imagine if this parcel were Burgundian? The wine would be $2500/bottle - on St. Antioco, it is less than $30 (it used to be less than $20 a few years ago). As far as educational opportunities, this one pretty much goes without saying. Tradition meets modernity in the 2005 Kanai Riserva and the massive, ancient blood red Carignan that is the backbone of this wine can be tannic, tough and unruly in youth - it can require several years to show itself but the raw materials are obvious. Think new-release, top-end Priorat with an esoteric quality derived from sea air and soil that is mostly comprised of fine white sand (in some places, pure white sand on par with the nearby beach). The sea makes it's influence known everywhere on St. Antioco as the brunt of any Mediterranean wind or weather blasts this coast first before any other in Italy (even before the mainland of Sardinia). There is little or no protection out here and the vines have been forced to thrive despite historic age, wind, torrid sunshine and relative isolation - even from the caring hands of man...or disease. An amazing story and one that has few equals (if any)." With that as a background, the 2004 Arruga is Pater's top wine - it is from the oldest pre-phylloxera vines on the property which make the centenarian Carignan vines in Priorat seem young (the vines for the Arruga hail from 1820-1850 - just about the oldest segregated vines in Europe or the world?): The Arruga is a special wine - it is one of those esoteric treats that rarely comes along and I'm quite happy to have the opportunity to share it with you. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - only 25 cases for the entire US (there are also a few cases in Massachusetts if you live in that state): 2004 Sardus Pater Carignano del Sulcis Superiore "Arruga" It will ship during the spring shipping season. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy3298
5/23/2009, (See more on Garagiste...)
By Antonio Galloni
(Sardus Pater Carignano Del Sulcis Superiore Arruga) Login and sign up and see review text.Central & Southern Italy: A World Waiting to be Discovered (Apr 2009), (See more on Vinous...)