(CORMERAIS Muscadet CHAMBAUDIERE) 2009 Muscadet Dear Friends, The French press is going batty over Bruno Cormerais and he just may be Muscadet's single greatest producer. While I adore Pepiere, L-P, and others, Cormerais is playing on a different field. He is often referred to as the Selosse of Nantais but I would describe him more as the Gonon or Henri Bonneau of Muscadet - traditional but experimental in the same wine with no apparent care for release schedules or following his peers - for Cormerais the terroir and vintage expression rise above all else. Known for some of the oldest vines and longest ageing on the lees in Muscadet (he's just getting around to the release of some 2004's) Cormerais hand selects each parcel and vat as he goes and you never know what is going to end up where (a la Bonneau). Most of his vines rest on granite soil and only natural yeast is used. The fermentations can be very long to start and finish with results that can make your head spin (one again, a la Bonneau). No vintage is the same and each is unique with some of the greatest concentration of fruit and minerality in all of Muscadet. His Granite de Clisson has been referred to as "Batard-Montrachet" by the Gault-Millieu and, as a testament to his draw, the 2009 (the wine we offer below) must be pre-ordered before release on March 4th or it will be gone. How many other Muscadet producers require something like this simply due to demand within France? None. In other words, this is a producer to watch very closely. The very well respected Bertrand Rougier (Le Guide des 101 Meilleurs Vins de France) captures the mystique and excellence of Cormerais with a fine pen: "The property of Bruno Cormerais is situated in the southwest part of the appellation Muscadet S_vre et Maine, on the edge of the river. The atypical soils are composed of the splendid and reputable granites of Clisson. The parcels of old vines are up to 70 years old, the yields are limited by short pruning, grass is left between the rows, the grapes are harvested at full maturity, natural yeasts are used, and fermentation is temperature controlled. And, cherry on the cake, Bruno Cormerais is not only a vigneron attached to his terroir, but also an ardent innovator, a clever experimentor, who has succeeded in imposing the wines of Muscadet as among the best of France. As an example his cuvÄe Bruno, made from grapes of old vines (between 40 and 70 years) which spend 52 months on the lees. A single taste of this nectar is sufficient to make disappear every prejudice concerning wines from the Nantais. The robe is golden with pale green reflections. The bouquet is ample, penetrating, enthusiastic. It smells of lemon, the ocean, jasmine and honeysuckle. Bitter almonds come through next with walnuts, pressed green apples and an infusion of chamomile with such an incredible elegance, that one almost wishes it was even more sauvage. In the mouth the first impression is of hay just brought into the barn. Then white flowers, walnut oil, and almond powder invading the middle of the mouth and carrying honeysuckle in the aftertaste. Acidity and minerality remain balanced and vibrant throughout. The minerality is posed on a bed of white flowers of pear and praline. A wine of vitality and freshness. Ardent, attractive, dancing, wafting...." Which brings us to 2009. Yes, 2009. You've heard the rumors and the ramblings that 2009 is profound in the Loire but it is not that easy. In Muscadet, the producers that pruned significantly last year and dropped plenty of bud material in the spring of 2009 found themselves with material that may even eclipse 1989 (one of the greatest vintages in history - many of the basic 1989s are still going strong). Those that went for tonnage and crossed their fingers as they waited for harvest are not smiling. They ended up with clean but soft and somewhat dilute wines that few will be excited about. Fortunately, Cormerais is in the former camp. He is so excited about the bubbling vats of 2009 that it's like the great and powerful Oz rubbing his hands back and forth with a "yes, yes, yes!". The Chambaudiere is his sur lie example, selected from the most expressive young cuvÄes and aged for 7-9 months on the lees. It is quickly bottled for Spring release and typically sparkles with energy and freshness but, in 2009, it's backed by muscle as well (a la 1989). It is released on the first legal day of shipment - the first Thursday of March (this is the day most sur lie Muscadet headed for the US, like Pepiere, is released). In most vintages, the Chambaudiere sells out quickly but, in 2009, Cormerais has had to allocate the vintage (thus the necessity of a pre-order). To insure we have the wine here for summer imbibement, we have a pick up scheduled at Cormerais on March 4th and will have the wine in Seattle and turned around in time for the end of the spring shipping season. While Cormerais can be very expensive (he makes no apology for his prices - among the very highest at the top end of Muscadet) his wine can also be among the very best values. Case in point, the 2009 Muscadet we offer below. The best wines in the world command center-stage attention and it usually follows suit that they command higher prices. I will not argue with Bruno Cormerais charging whatever he desires. The 2009 Muscadet Chambaudiere sur lie should make for a spectacular bargain drink all summer long (and well into 2011-2014). ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance. We cannot obtain a second parcel of the 2009. Cormerais is VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: 2009 Bruno Cormerais Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur lie "Chambaudi_re" (this is not Chateau la Cormerais (Cheneau) Muscadet!) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Loire7577
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By Chris Kissack
(Bruno Cormerais Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Chambaudière) Login and sign up and see review text.February 2012, (See more on Winedoctor...)
By Chris Kissack
(Bruno Cormerais Chambaudière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie White) Login and sign up and see review text.February 2012, (See more on Winedoctor...)