Appellation Article

The name translates as easily as it rolls off the
tongue: Walla Walla. Many Waters. To the earliest
Native tribes, the many waters came from the nearby
Blue Mountains and gathered to form the Walla Walla
River on its way to join the Columbia to the west. The
waters flowed first; however, into a fair-sized Valley
carved in the mountain's foothills, and bordered in part
by the terrain of what is known as the Columbia
Plateau. Tribal members knew the Valley's generally
milder climate could maintain their people in winter villages.
There were lush wild grasses which could sustain
horses and attract game from the winter snows of the
nearby Blues, or from the giant high plateau that
becomes desolate and dangerous during the cold season.
The rolling terrain and numerous watersheds
offered protection from nature and other hazards of the
day. Here the water was plentiful and full of fish and seldom
froze, even in the coldest years. The meadows were
wonderful places to gather with other people to trade,
compete and celebrate treaties. Compared to the region
around them, the Walla Walla Valley was a safe refuge
from the treacherous conditions which can often be
found during the winter for hundreds of miles around.
In this unique growing region, most of the earliest
records of grapes and winemaking reference the Italians
who had immigrated here in the mid to late 1800's and
who brought with them their tradition of growing, making
and drinking wine. Vines with these origins still exist
in the Valley today. The first post-prohibition winery was
Blue Mountain Vineyards. It was bonded in 1950 by the
Pesciallo family where they produced Black Prince and
other Italian varietal wines for a period of several years
before succumbing to economics and climate.
To the wine world of today, Walla Walla has
become know for the quality and style of its red wines,
especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with Syrah
gaining notoriety in recent years.
In the1970's, the pioneers of today's wine community
began to think similar thoughts: that the Walla
Walla Valley, with its long history of fruit growing, moderate
climate, wine-making heritage, and interesting terrain
might just be a place to grow vines and make wine
on a commercial scale.
These pioneers of the region applied for and
received approval of the Walla Walla Valley as a unique
American Viticultural Area (AVA) in 1984. It was the
third in Washington State and also includes a portion of
land in Oregon. In the time leading to the recognition of
the appellation, four wineries had been bonded starting
with Leonetti Cellar, and shortly thereafter, Woodward
Canyon. L'Ecole Nº 41 and Waterbrook soon followed.
In addition to the smaller vineyards that were being
planted, the Valley's first large-scale, commercial vineyard
Seven Hills was established.
By the time the BATF recognized the Walla Walla
Valley AVA, the Valley was beginning to gain attention
from within the wine industry, as well as attracting publicity
from journalists and media outside the region. The
foundation for today’s industry had been laid and the
benchmark for quality had been set. In addition, fruit
from the area was now being harvested and a baseline
for understanding the local growing conditions was
being constructed.
Every few years another winery would join the fold
and take up the challenge of producing the highest
quality wine and the growing of outstanding fruit. Seven
Hills Winery and Patrick M. Paul each got their start during
this time. More vines were added, although acreage
increases were small each year. The industry was small
and everyone knew everyone else involved, while thewelcome mat remained out for any newcomers.
Growers and winemakers alike regularly shared time in
the cellar or at the table and together learned more
about wines and vines.
By 1990 there were just six wineries and the Valley's
grape acreage stood at perhaps 100 acres. The total collective
production of wine was microscopic by any measure,
but it was the quality that was being noticed by
many inside and outside the trade. As the tiny trickle of
wine produced in the Walla Walla AVA began to flow to
the outside world, a "wine renaissance" was beginning
to happen globally. The Pacific Northwest had staked a
claim in this new wine world and as people learned
about the region, they also began to hear about Walla
Walla. This interest spread rapidly to those with Walla
Walla connections. The early 1990s saw the planting of
more vines and the establishment of another large-scale
vineyard, Pepper Bridge. At the same time, a group of
local investors, working closely with the Napa based
Chalone Wine group, laid the foundation for Canoe
Ridge Vineyard, the Valley's first winery supported in
part by a major outside investor.
As the industry has grown, many new wineries have
gotten their start in the arms of an established winery.
Waterbrook Winery's modern production facility started
the trend, sharing space, equipment, and any help needed.
Other wineries also adopted “extra guests,” a practice
that has helped form close, personal relationships
throughout the local industry.
By the turn of the new century, the Walla Walla
Valley wine industry had 22 wineries and 800 acres of
grapes. In the year 2000 the AVA had been expanded
back to the original boundaries proposed in the1984
application. The year 2000 also saw the formation of the
Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance with 100% of the
Valley's wineries and 98% of the Valley's planted
acreage represented.
Today, more than 60 Walla Walla Valley wineries
and more than 1,200 acres of Walla Walla Valley grapes
contribute to the ever growing, international acclaim
garnered by the wines of this newly-emerging region of
Washington State.