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  • 1992 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône Château de Fonsalette Cuvée Syrah

    Brawn, blood, brine, beef, black olives, ointment, just a touch of green then lavender as it unfolds through the evening.
    The colour is still so youthful and there is a tannic undertow to the wine but it is well balanced, has good acidity and is oh so savoury. Ash, blue fruit, brine again. This is old fashioned wine making done well, a wine with rigueur, an honesty to it, uncompromising. A moment that stands out in this day and age.

    The following day there is a wild element to the nose of tuberose or patchouli, I forget but that intoxicating scent of potpourri upon uncorking the bottle tempered with more air by red fruit and a seam or iron - quite magical on a picnic looking towards Reims in the distance over the vineyards of Cernay. Sun on my face, Spring round the corner. Definitely a hint of black tea which is also on the palette which has rounded out. What a singular expression of Syrah, so savoury it’s unreal. Thrilling, intellectual, mesmerising.

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  • 2008 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

    I don’t often write notes but when it’s this good I like to have words that will go with the memory. From the go the nose is pitch perfect with oysters, mineral and citrus, it tastes so fresh, almost indescribable to break down the flavours, Perhaps that’s why classic Chablis is often described as crushed rock. There is sweetness to the wine in your mouth (like the best lemons from Amalfi) that is tempered by a laser like seam of acidity that together create a seamless wine of ethereal tenderness. The nose starts to give a hint of powder like sherbert and the undertone of a women’s scent as it wears off on the skin. Brilliant. I wonder what this will be like in 10 years?

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  • 2007 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot

    Shared over lunch with 4 others, served blind. Limpid in colour. Takes a little time to coax but as it opens up it smells glorious, more res fruit than black but with that quintessential pinotnesque. Difficult to place as to whether it’s from Cote de Beaune or Nuits, it is in fact from Clos de Vougeot but it transcends the vineyard and producer as it is not reminiscent of either. We discussed how you would score this wine and came to the conclusion you couldn’t, primarily as it’s a wine of great purity, quintessential red burgundy, crystal clear, a wine that whispers rather than shouts, complex yet understated, compelling in every way and by far quite the best 2007 I’ve had.

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