1998 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese Auction

Riesling

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Community Tasting Notes (7) Avg Score: 94.5 points

  • (Mostly) Spätlese dinner at Proxi (Chicago, IL): #13-99, 8.5% abv. I didn't like this bottle as much as my previous one, which was many, many years ago now. I found this to be surprisingly rich and thickly textured, especially for Spätlese, and there were some slightly dirty elements here as well. It did clean up with time, but through it all was a pervasive ripe canary melon note that was a little odd.

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  • Just like my last bottle, rich, muscular yet precise, with a palate cleansing, lip smacking, chalk dusted finish. A bit on the sweeter side for a Spat, so I would opt to have this with cheese rather than with a meal. Gorgeous, lingering finish.

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  • Tacos and Black Mirror (Chicago, IL): #13-99, 8.5% abv. The dark colour is a clue to tell you that this is a richer bottle of Spatlese -- this definitely has a fair bit of Auslese character, given the rich and honeyed qualities. Do I also detect a hint of botrytis? The palate is quite sweet and ripe, with lots of tropical character. There's a tartness on the midpalate and finish that lifts this all up, so this is never cloying, even for a moment. But be warned: this is definitely bigger than a "regular" Spatlese.

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  • This has really changed since I last had it, about 13 years ago. It is now more richer, ample and broad shouldered. Lots of tropical fruits, honey and minerals here; veers towards the sweeter side of the spectrum, but the acidity is just as ample and provides lovely balance. Not as precise as the 1995 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Kabinet auction Riesling that was served next to it, but there was a broader array of rich flavors and an interminable, mineral-tinged finish. In the end, they were both great wines for different reasons... just a matter of personal preference, and I loved them equally.

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  • Riesling and Madeiras at Marco's (Milford, CT): Nice to finally sit down with this over a dinner after missing a couple of opportunities to drink this in the past. Brad's note that this is more Auslese than Spätlese is on the mark - there's a honeyed character around the rich peach, lime, and red berried fruit here, and much more intensity and sweetness on the palate than I'd expect from any of the Dönnhoff Spätlese. It's still very precise and focused though with bright acids beneath, and over the course of a few hours the ripe fruit and honeyed flavours take a step back as the more savoury smoky and mineral elements start to emerge on the nose and palate. Stunning balance, with a very graceful, glossy texture on the palate, and a long finish. A real treat - thanks Marco.

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View From the Cellar

Vinous

  • By David Schildknecht
    January/February 2000, IWC Issue #88, (See more on Vinous...)

    (Hermann Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese Gold Capsule) Login and sign up and see review text.

Rockss and Fruit

  • By Lyle Fass
    1/8/2008, (See more on Rockss and Fruit...)

    (Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Spatlese Goldkap (Auction Bottling)) This was stunning wine albeit a bit young. I just had the regular Hermannshohle from '98 and this wine was much much better. I can confidently say that this is the most refined wine in all of Germany. It has such grace and precision and also is ethereally light. The flavors were all red fruits, stone fruit flesh and concentrated citrus. The minerality took a while to come out but once it did it was assertive. The concentration on this wine was astounding and exploded in the mid palate and aldo had the classic Donnhoff dissolve on the finish. Needs much more time as this showed much younger than the regular non-acution NHS bottling. I'll never know as I drank my only bottle and have no regrets I did.

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