2005 Le Clos Jordanne Chardonnay Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  11/11/2009, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (Le Clos Jordanne "Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard" Estate Chardonnay Niagara) Le Clos Jordanne #2 Dear Friends, I've been trying to pry a small library parcel of the "Judgment of Montreal" wine away from Le Clos Jordanne (the Niagra upstart we profiled over the summer) but they are in no hurry to release any (i.e., they don't have any). That wine is now regarded as one of the more important vinous achievement ever to come out of Canada and pressures are coming from France, the Far East and even Ottawa to secure a few cases (nothing like home-grown publicity at a state dinner). While the 2005 Claystone Terrace Chardonnay is not available, they asked me this morning if we wanted a tiny parcel of late release 2005 Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay (the big sister to the Claystone Terrace that won the tasting). The Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard is from the best sweet spot on the estate and is considered a superior wine to the Claystone (this would be like Marcassin "Marcassin Vineyard" next to the "Three Sisters", etc although I'm not comparing the two wineries). If you are curious about vinous history or simply wish to stump your oenophile friends in a lineup of Meursault Charmes or Aubert, this wine is about as hard to find as it gets at this point. I'm not going to say the crop of 2005 Le Clos Jordanne wines will be worth as much 40 years from now as the 1973 Stag's Leap Cabernet, but it is a worthwhile road to go down that signals a new dawn in the world of wine. To refresh your memory on this entity, our original (and verbose) Le Clos Jordanne offer is below (for the 2006's - all are sold out). Here is a link to the "Judgment of Montreal" tasting: http://money.cnn.com/2009/06/12/news/companies/canadian_chardonnay_worlds_best.fortune/index.htm As a pre-release gesture from the winery, we also have a small amount of the new 2007 Villages Chardonnay - 2007 in Niagra is reported to be on the same level as 2007 in Napa (you can use your own imagination as to the quality level) - the entire 2007 range has been on strict allocation from Le Clos Jordanne since last summer - only a few dribbles have gone out to the Province of Ontario and that's about it. The 2007 Villages Reserve is reported to be the finest quality they've ever produced - it is akin to an estate blend that defines each vintage versus the distinction of each single vineyard wine. As far as I know, this is the only US-bound parcel of both wines: 2005 Le Clos Jordanne "Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard" Estate Chardonnay (Niagra) 2007 Le Clos Jordanne "Village Reserve" Estate Chardonnay (Niagra) Thank you - - Jon Rimmerman ********************************** (original offer from the summer of 2009): Le Clos Jordanne Dear Friends, This gets the IMPORTANT tag not just for the wine but for its potential to an entire country's wine industry. Is Le Clos Jordanne the finest new Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producer in North America? The testimonials a few paragraphs below would support a firm answer of yes. Before Oregon and California fans get bent out of shape, there is room for more than one entrant at the top of the heap - it's not like you would dump Roumier Musigny down the drain just because you're enjoying a glass of Mugnier? I had heard stories of this winery since 2005 but my only encounter with their nectar was in passing and not enough to study. I will say up front, I was a pessimist, but I finally had the opportunity to try the wines this summer and it was enlightening to say the least. After sitting with each bottle for many hours over the course of the last several weeks (one at a time/one per day) I am thrilled to tell you this winery has hit the terroir jackpot. While they are a long way from Mugnier (or even Thomas in my opinion) they are on to something very special and it's only the beginning. If you were to seek the best possible parcel of land in North America to produce Burgundian varietals, where would it be? McMinnville? Santa Barbara? Maybe not. How about the Jordan Bench in Canada - yes, Canada. The Jordan Bench lies below Lake Ontario in a little known region for dry wines - part of the Niagara VQA known more for ice-wine. Les Clos Jordanne (a reference to the Jordan Bench) holds the most prized piece of land in this new area and their results with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are, well, let the testimonials below tell the story (they have dozens more like this on their web site but I thought re-printing 40 testimonials was a bit much - here are a few): Rick VanSickle, Ottawa Sun: "Nothing short of breathtaking. Individually crafted masterpieces." Irvin Wolkoff, The Medical Post: "The wines are stunning. I have never tasted better Canadian table wines. Period." Christopher Silliman, Wein-Plus Magazine: "Le Clos Jordanne is a winery in a category by itself - among the finest examples of Pinot Noir that I've tasted in North America." Robert Noæl, Times and Transcript: "Some of the best Pinot Noir outside of Burgundy - this winery will, I guarantee you, raise the bar for Pinot Noir from new world regions." Steven Page, Wine Spectator Blog: "Cult wines, gotta-have wines; absolutely astounding Pinot Noir" Edward Finstein, Beach Metro News (Toronto): "Astounding and in my mind, the best this country has to offer." Beppi Crosariol, Globe & Mail: "Off to a majestic start. The reds, one better than the other, mark nothing short of a new era for Niagara pinot." Konrad Ejbich, Style: "I was taken aback by their sheer brilliance." ...and, if that's not enough, the crown jewel that should make them more than a curiosity around the globe just occurred this spring - an event likened to the infamous "1976 Judgment of Paris" that has been dubbed "The Judgment of Montreal" where Le Clos Jordanne's 2005 Chardonnay won a blind tasting against well-regarded entrants from Napa, Burgundy, Australia and New Zealand. While many of you may pooh-pooh this as not in the same league as the famous Stag's Leap showing in 1976 that changed the game in Napa Valley, I beg to differ. See article here: http://money.cnn.com/2009/06/12/news/companies/canadian_chardonnay_worlds_best.fortune/index.htm From 100% organic and naturally produced fruit, all of the Le Clos Jordanne wines are hand made with only gravity as an influence. With no serious history of Burgundian production in the Jordan Bench to follow, this winery was shooting from the hip and they've taken about as big a risk as you can imagine in wine. With not a single road to follow, the only path they had was their instinct and their ability to roll the dice. A project that began with only a vision and an iron stomach - there was literally nothing there when Jean-Charles Boisset first happened upon this piece of land by complete happenstance. From the first speck of dust turned to the first finished bottle, everything was on his shoulders. After walking the land and inspecting the soil, he knew this tiny region had the chance to produce results that were close in style to the Cote d'Or but with an individual character that would set them apart. He even believed for the first time in his career that this region had the ability to surpass the tradition of the Cote d'Nuits (given the requisite vine age and experience). He had been to California, Oregon, Central Otago and nearly every other Pinot Noir producing sub-district in the world and he chose the Jordan Bench for this pet project - it was by far the biggest risk of his career but he had to trust his instinct. Jean-Charles gave this project everything he had from a passion standpoint but he also had an unfortunate little problem: money. He had to start from zero and (like a smart business person) he didn't want to use his own funding - he found a willing partner with Constellation and, in exchange for their partnership/ownership, he got to keep the rights to the top-end wines but he gave them the control over the largest vineyard (Talon Ridge) for their commercial endeavors (sort of like an indie/major label record deal - he keeps creative control). In a roundabout fashion, Le Clos Jordanne is now a sister winery with Osoyoos-Larose so you see the level of quality I'm talking about here. While some of this may appear on the surface as mass-market (due to Constellation's involvement), Le Clos Jordanne is anything but - half of the wines in the stable have allocations of 100-150 cases for total export (not just the US) and that's less than something like Roumier Bonnes Mares - it is simply too small a number for an organization like Constellation to bother with and that's one of the reasons why Le Clos Jordanne is not imported to the US (they sell almost everything via the cellar door and to a few retailers and restaurants in Canada and the UK). With that said, I urge you to give each of these a try - they are the top single vineyard wines from the 2006 vintage and each gives a good indication of where this project is headed. As noted, these are currently unavailable in the US but we are bringing them in anyway. A winery who's time is now: 2006 Le Clos Jordanne Pinot Noir "Le Clos Jordanne" - SOLD OUT This is the winery's Les St. George, their top vineyard. In a way, the result reminds me of Nuits St. George mixed with something fresh, new and exciting. What is most surprising about the Pinot Noir produced here is the distinct sense of minerality and varietal expression - this is not a wine solely about cooperage or high alcohol. In general, the alcohol is much lower than in California (13.0-13.5%) and the omnipresent candied fruit that can plague the Golden State is nowhere to be found. The 2006 is an eye-opening wine that is more elegant than the 2005 (I tasted both) but even more cerebral. From a vineyard with incredibly low yields and vine density, this was gently pressed and allowed to flow from tank to barrel without human intervention until it was ready to be bottled. No added yeast or other was used and a spontaneous fermentation took quite a while to complete. Ruby-red, glowing and alive with feminine, citric and floral fruit, this spice-laced wine also has the intrigue of mysterious whiffs of Niagara earth - quite a shocking result and a wine to watch age over the next 4-6 years. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. For more detailed information on this fussed over entrant: http://www.leclosjordanne.com/en/pdf/wine/LC_NotesLCJEVpinot06.pdf 2006 Le Clos Jordanne Chardonnay "Le Clos Jordanne" - SOLD OUT This wine is above the designation that won the Judgment of Montreal tasting. Like the Pinot Noir, it is also their top single vineyard expression and it is an eye-popping bottle (they also produce a blended wine that is at or above this level, the Grande Clos). From 100% organic fruit that was barely touched after picking all the way to the bottle, the 2006 Le Clos Jordanne gives ample credence to the winning result at the Judgment of Montreal tasting. Teeming with purity, rock, salt, mineral and acacia with a delicate but palate staining band of white-fruit that is bursting with low-alcohol sap (13%), this is the type of wine that will excite anyone interested in the newest and the most untested in the vinous world. A Canadian Meursault/Leeuwin mix that is on its way to the big time. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. For more information, please see: http://www.leclosjordanne.com/en/pdf/wine/LC_NotesLCJEVchard06.pdf Le Clos Jordanne is a new beacon for Canada's young and emerging wine industry with endless potential and the terroir to prove it. This two-step is an educational as well as gustatory opportunity that should prove to be an active conversation starter at your holiday events this fall. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy2399