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Mosel Fine Wines

Terry Theise Estate Selections

  • By Terry Theise
    2012 Austrian Catalog, 6/1/2012, (See more on Terry Theise Estate Selections...)

    (Nikolaihof Riesling Steiner Hund "Reserve") ($77.00) This vineyard is existentially unique, as if it had its own magnetic fields. Druids would have built their megaliths there. Maybe at night a UFO lands silently and all the little space dudes get out and do some magic, I don’t know. But I know of no other great wine that seems so unknowable, overwhelming and haunting. For a Nikolaihof ‘08 this is markedly ripe (13%), and it shows a lot of counterpoint between its druidic exotics and Chartreuse-y herbalness, versus its jasmine and white chocolate yang side. Potentially great, it’s still busy working through its contradictions. The implosion of minerality may eventually mediate among them. A superb and complicated Riesling. + +

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