2014 Albert Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett trocken Alte Reben

Community Tasting Notes (1) Avg Score: 90 points

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  7/30/2021 - forceberry wrote: 90 Points

  11,5% alcohol.
  
  Medium-deep honey-yellow color. Sweet-toned and varietally correct nose with instantly recognizable Riesling aromas of honey and beeswax, some lemon marmalade, light mineral notes of stone dust and an evolved hint of wizened peach. The wine is ripe, dry-to-dry-ish and somewhat evolved on the palate with a pronounced and even somewhat bitter streak of steely minerality, ripe lemony citrus fruits, some sweeter notes of lemon marmalade, light saline notes and a hint of chalk dust. The wine feels like it must've been quite lean and austere in its youth, but age has unwound the wine a little and granted it pleasant sense of concentration, making its mouthfeel quite smooth and silky. Crisp, high acidity. The finish is crisp, long and slightly lean with intense flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some quinine bitter notes, a little bit of honeyed richness, light tart notes of borderline unripe apples, a tangy hint of saline minerality and a touch of beeswax.
  
  Although I love Gessinger's sweet wines, I've often found their dry Rieslings quite lean, austere and rather forbidding in style. The wines tend to be very noticeably mineral with quite little in the way of fruit, making them come across as very incisive and quite noticeably bitter. However, this wine shows that the wines just need time: you can taste the pronounced minerality and bitterness, but the fruit has developed a nice sense of richness and concentration over the years, making the wine feel not only approachable, but also enjoyably nuanced now. Good stuff, excellent value at 7€.

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