Mini Egon Kabinett vertical at Eat Fine (Chicago, IL): From half-bottle. Distinctly 2003 with a roasted quality to the fruit. There's Spätlese weight here and this is significantly sweeter than the 2017 and 2012 alongside, and also shows some secondary characteristics as well. That said, there are still vestiges of Kabinett lightness here, but it is a bit of an odd duck, almost just sitting between the two Prädikats. Nevertheless quite tasty and sufficiently light and drinkable.
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5th of 12, pnp, perfect cork and level, little changed from bottles noted in 20 and 21 and stubbornly youthful from my cellar complete with spritz, enthralling bouquet and beautifully layered, upside, 15+ years. F+ (18).
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Jeremy's Riesling Dinner (Hawthorn): Less energy than the 2015 Othegraven, sure, but the alluring nose of this wine grabbed me instantly; first note was "wow - so creamy". With more sniffing there were plenty of interesting scents, such as Provencal herbs, rose, honey, papaya and Badedas (i.e. horse chestnut). Less interesting on the palate, which wasn't excessively sweet but did (as expected) come across as quite rounded, perhaps overly undemanding. Some found that off-putting, but I was happy bathing in the wine's perfume!
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This is reasonably nice, fully mature, I would say, and on the back end of its plateau, but not over the hill. Sugars resolved, classic MSR flavor profile. The Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese last week was a big step up, relative to this, mostly because its prominent acidity gave it a keen edge, precision, and balance with the remaining sweetness. The difference largely attributable, presumably, to the 2003 vintage, which gave atypically ripe, less-fresh grapes, in the MSR context. The Scharzhoferger slate terroir doesn't show in this wine, as compared to, say, the von Hoevel wines from this vineyard - again, from cooler vintages. Overall my experience of this wine (after 8 bottles) has been underwhelming, and would never induce me to pay the prices Muller's bottles normally command. I have half a dozen Spatelese (also 2003) which I'll need to dive into now, but I'll do so without optimism.
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3/27/2024 - acyso wrote: 93 Points
Mini Egon Kabinett vertical at Eat Fine (Chicago, IL): From half-bottle. Distinctly 2003 with a roasted quality to the fruit. There's Spätlese weight here and this is significantly sweeter than the 2017 and 2012 alongside, and also shows some secondary characteristics as well. That said, there are still vestiges of Kabinett lightness here, but it is a bit of an odd duck, almost just sitting between the two Prädikats. Nevertheless quite tasty and sufficiently light and drinkable.
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9/16/2023 - Nothung Likes this wine: 94 Points
Stunningly beautiful as always Still drinking really well. Decanted, which really opened it up.
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8/18/2023 - liber Likes this wine: 94 Points
5th of 12, pnp, perfect cork and level, little changed from bottles noted in 20 and 21 and stubbornly youthful from my cellar complete with spritz, enthralling bouquet and beautifully layered, upside, 15+ years. F+ (18).
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5/9/2023 - NickA Likes this wine: 94 Points
Jeremy's Riesling Dinner (Hawthorn): Less energy than the 2015 Othegraven, sure, but the alluring nose of this wine grabbed me instantly; first note was "wow - so creamy". With more sniffing there were plenty of interesting scents, such as Provencal herbs, rose, honey, papaya and Badedas (i.e. horse chestnut). Less interesting on the palate, which wasn't excessively sweet but did (as expected) come across as quite rounded, perhaps overly undemanding. Some found that off-putting, but I was happy bathing in the wine's perfume!
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9/7/2021 - fitzi wrote:
This is reasonably nice, fully mature, I would say, and on the back end of its plateau, but not over the hill. Sugars resolved, classic MSR flavor profile. The Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese last week was a big step up, relative to this, mostly because its prominent acidity gave it a keen edge, precision, and balance with the remaining sweetness. The difference largely attributable, presumably, to the 2003 vintage, which gave atypically ripe, less-fresh grapes, in the MSR context. The Scharzhoferger slate terroir doesn't show in this wine, as compared to, say, the von Hoevel wines from this vineyard - again, from cooler vintages. Overall my experience of this wine (after 8 bottles) has been underwhelming, and would never induce me to pay the prices Muller's bottles normally command. I have half a dozen Spatelese (also 2003) which I'll need to dive into now, but I'll do so without optimism.
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