2005 H.M. Borges Madeira Boal Colheita

Community Tasting Notes (1) Avg Score: 92 points

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  8/31/2022 - forceberry wrote: 92 Points

  The wine is made with purchased Boal that are briefly macerated with the skins. After 3-4 days of fermentation, the must is rectified to approx. 20% ABV with 96% ABV grape spirit to halt the fermentation. The fortified wine is transferred to old 650-liter oak casks which are moved to age in Canteiros, ie. in warm warehouses in which the wines age in casks that are never topped up. 20% alcohol, 87,3 g/l residual sugar and 7,5 g/l acidity.
  
  Medium-deep coppery color. Sweetish, nuanced nose with seductive aromas of raisins and black treacle, some apple jam, light dried-fruit notes of raisins and dried figs, a little bit of Christmas spices, a hint of oak smoke, a touch of something resinous and a whiff of bitter almond oil. Lovely! The wine feels rich, oily and very intense on the palate with a moderately full body and sweet flavors of syrupy treacle and raisins, some tangy lemony tones, a little bit of bruised apple, light caramel tones, a hint of oxidative nuttiness and a touch of dried dates. The bright, zippy acidity lends great sense of structure and freshness to the wine. The finish is sweet, brisk and moderately concentrated with a very long aftertaste of apple jam, some maple syrup, a little bit of burnt sugar bitterness, light lemony notes of tart citrus fruits, a hint of oak smoke and a touch of tangy salinity.
  
  A superb Colheita Madeira that is quite close to a young Garrafeira in quality. A great combination of concentrated, oxidative fruit character, syrupy sweetness and brisk, lemony acidity that wonderfully offsets most of the sweetness from the residual sugar without really negating any of that resulting richness. Tasting this alongside 2005 Borges Tinta Negra Colheita, this was simply miles and miles better. An excellent purchase at 22€ for a half-liter bottle.

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