1986 D'Oliveiras Madeira Boal

Community Tasting Notes (1) Avg Score: 94 points

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  9/5/2022 - forceberry wrote: 94 Points

  The wine is made with purchased Boal grapes. After 3-4 days of fermentation, the must is rectified to approx. 20% ABV with 96% ABV grape spirit to halt the fermentation. The fortified wine is transferred to old oak casks which are moved to age in Canteiros, ie. in warm warehouses in which the wines age in casks that are never topped up. 20% alcohol. Bottled in 2019, after 33 years of aging in casks, labeled as "Medium Sweet".
  
  Deep, rather intensely reddish syrupy-brown color. Bold, sweet-toned nose with attractive aromas of raisiny dark fruit and woody notes of old mahogany, some dried dates, a little bit of syrupy richness, light lifted notes of sweet VA, a hint of dark, pruney fruit and a pungent touch of nutty rancio. The wine is rich, firm and intense on the palate with a rather full body and sweet flavors of syrupy molasses, sharp lemony citrus fruits and tangy salinity, some bruised green apple tones, a little bit of blood orange, light aldehydic notes of sorrel, a hint of caramel and a touch of dried dates. The mouthfeel is silky in texture, even if there's lots of citrussy acidity keeping the wine wonderfully fresh and structured despite its quite noticeable residual sugar. The remarkably persistent finish is sweet, bright and silky with rich, layered flavors of syrupy molasses and oxidative nuttiness, some dried-fruit notes of raisins and dried dates, a little bit of sharp, salty rancio, light bruised apple tones, a hint of blood orange and a touch of lemon marmalade.
  
  A fantastic, bold and zippy Boal with wonderful freshness, focus and sense of structure. The 1980 vintage that was tasted alongside felt slightly more complex than this, but also a bit softer and more unctuous, whereas this wine showed more freshness and zip - making it quite impossible to say which one is ultimately the better one. I'd say they were more or less similarly outstanding wines, just both in their own, different, unique way. This is a terrific and utterly delicious Boal that isn't particularly old yet, but has shifted its overall style from the more youthful, fruitier character to more developed complexity. A superb Frasqueira that effortlessly combines lemony freshness with evolved complexity and captivating richness. This is not an affordable wine at 160€, but still solid value for the quality.

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