2018 David Moret Bourgogne-Aligoté Le Grand A

Community Tasting Notes (1) Avg Score: 90 points

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  7/22/2021 - forceberry wrote: 90 Points

  The back label says "Cepage oublié". Made with purchased fruit that is sourced from a contract grower farming a 60-yo Aligoté vineyard in Bouzeron. Fermented and aged for 18 months in oak barrels (approximately 1/4 new). Bottled unfiltered. 12,5% alcohol.
  
  Surprisingly intense and relatively deep yellow-green color. The nose feels simply huge with complex and somewhat sweetish - almost primary - aromas of passion fruit, ripe pear and pear drops, some nectarine, a little bit of apricot-driven baby food character, light sappy green notes of birch leaves, a hint of key lime and a creamy touch of oak. The wine is surprisingly big and concentrated for an Aligoté, yet still surprisingly fresh and crisp on the palate with a rather full body and still moderately primary flavors of passion fruit-driven exotic fruits, some lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of blood orange, light creamy notes of oak, light nectarine notes, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of savory umami character. The bright, high acidity lends a great counterpoint to the full body and concentrated fruit. The finish is long, bright and steely with intense, concentrated flavors of blood orange, some passion fruit, light creamy notes of oak, a little bit of fruit salad, light waxy notes, a hint of dried mango and a brackish touch of salinity.
  
  A very surprising and distinctively tropical Aligoté that would probably be impossible to recognize for the variety were the bottle served blind. The lush, exotic fruit notes are very confusing, as they are something I've never had in an Aligoté before. There's really lots of things going on here and I'm not sure if this wine is a work of genius or a fruit bomb crowdpleaser. Really, I don't know what to think of it. An idiosyncratic wine if there ever was one. Probably not as good as a light and fresh food wine like a traditional, zippy Aligoté would be, but an interesting and high-quality effort all the same. I'd rather give the wine a 88-92 rating than a single score, but these are the cards we have to play with.

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