2005 Giuseppe Cortese Dolcetto d'Alba Trifolera

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  6/20/2007, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (Cortese Dolcetto Trifolera) Piedmont Dear Friends, The 1997 all over again? When Cortese debuted their 1997 Dolcetto Trifolera it captivated a crowd that was not used to such a traditional wine. Somehow, the wine rode the traditional fence in terms of extract, impression and structure and the normally artisan-averse were enthralled. The wine was such a hit it sold out in the US market in a matter of weeks. We’ve been waiting for a repeat since then and the 2005 may be that wine - one that will please the most assertive classicists and also those just looking for good wine on a Tuesday night (regardless of what it is or where it’s from). Dolcetto and Barbera are the classic varietals of Piedmont. Foreigners think of Nebbiolo first but the locals do not. Barolo and Barbaresco are reserved for meditative moments or for export - they drink Dolcetto and Barbera with nearly every food match and many consume one or the other on a daily basis. Dolcetto seems to be favored in winter and its unusual style is an acquired taste at birth for those born in this region. Known as a red wine to drink in youth, a few producers believe their Dolcetto has unusual staying power and Cortese is one of them (I just tasted a bottle of the 1995 Dolcetto and it is still holding on). The Trifolera is fashioned with a minimum amount of intervention and the goal is to make a mountain out of a mole hill in the most traditional way they can - all with the deep tone and floral nose the wine is known for. This is not an easy accomplishment as Dolcetto can be austere when unripe but when the wine is allowed to ripen properly, it can be an outstanding value. In a top vintage, the wine is quite intriguing and Cortese’s Trifolera remains of the lowest priced wines left in Piedmont for the quality - it is an educational opportunity as well as an ideal food match for a variety of grilled meats, roasted vegetables or whatever hearty fare may come your way: HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for outstanding value and keeper of the traditional flame: ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price directly from the winery cellar. 2005 Giuseppe Cortese Dolcetto “Trifolera” Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy8190