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  • By Jon Rimmerman
    11/14/2007, (See more on Garagiste...)

    (SHEA Pali Pinot Noir) Pali Pinot Noir Dear Friends, ...speaking of Central Coast, what about 2006? This winery has hit a few long-balls in 2006 and their Pinot Noirs are some of the more interesting being produced in California and beyond - period. Everyone knows I am an outspoken critic of most domestic Pinot Noir so I am twice as skeptical as others - that being said, these are the real thing. Pali (Wine Co) is something of a Two Hands operation and it is a true garage outfit about one thing - making the best wine they can regardless of trends or fashion. They are bent on expressing small plots of vineyard specific wine from terroir all over the West Coast. The grapes are sourced from what they believe to be the finest growers in each district and the grapes are vinified by Brian Loring. The goal here is make real Pinot Noir, not Syrah from Pinot grapes, and that they have accomplished. Hats off to Brian for making wine with low alcohol, enticing (not slathered) oak influence and real vineyard and varietal tone that may seem simple to some but speaks volumes to this taster. I think it will to you as well. Pali makes several wines but I’ve settled on two bottlings that represent what they are trying to accomplish - one from the Central Coast and the other from Oregon’s Shea vineyard. These are wines with a start, middle and end wrapped in real acidity and soil tones. They possess the velvet of west coast Pinot Noir but nothing is overdone - they are real wines with refreshing levels of alcohol (the Cargasacchi is “only” 13.5+% which has become very low for CA). You will find no root beer or over-roasted, sugary elements here - everything is in check and they are just fine examples of the genre - in fact, some of the best you will find from the US. You can check the Burghound reviews of the 2005s if you want to (he was a big fan of the Cargasacchi) - the 2006s (as a group) seem to have more terroir and mid-palate depth and the extra year of experience with the vineyards has given Brian a firm leg up on 2005. Exciting wines that aren’t afraid to be real versions of what they - without the need to manipulate style due to a score race or chase for prestige - very refreshing and well worth your support: 2006 Pali Pinot Noir “Cargasacchi Jalama” Vineyard (Central Coast/Santa Barbara) This is a personal favorite - an outstanding and cerebral example that is really something. At once light and mysterious and then deep and full of red fruit silk and a suave character. Really memorable and balanced wine with actual acidity that says Pinot Noir: Brian Loring: “Deeply layered and complex, not unlike Peter Cargasacchi himself. On the nose and palate are loads of dark fruit and a touch of earthiness. Good structure with some fine-grained tannin and bright acidity. 2006 Pali Pinot Noir “Shea” Vineyard (Willamette Valley/Oregon) Here's one of your first looks at a serious 2006 Oregon Pinot Noir - Brian hits it on the head below, classic Shea that will leave Northwest-heads very excited - better than the 2005: Brian Loring: Quintessential Shea Vineyard signature of blackberry and cherry with layers of spice. Very deep and textured with silky tannins. Enough acid to provide good backbone and long finish." Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA CA3100 CA3200

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