2006 Zarate Albariño Rías Baixas Val do Salnés

JamesSuckling.com

• By James Suckling
  12/1/2016, (See more on JamesSuckling.com...)

  (Zárate Albariño Rías Baixas, Spain) Login and sign up and see review text.

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  8/6/2008, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (ZARATE Albarino) Zarate Dear Friends, There's something about a "Z" that's exciting. We don't see them very often and even less with wine - Zorro, Zelda, Zeus and now Zarate - ruler of Rias Baixas. Maybe you've tried Albarino before but that is like trying every other Spanish wine except for Vega Sicilia. This is the Vega Sicilia of Albarino - there, I've said it (at least I didn't use "this is the Screaming Eagle of Rias Baixas"). Virtually nonexistent in the US market except for a few cases spread thinly around, Zarate is something of a legend in Rias Baixas and it's time for their Albarino to take its place among the elite white wines of Europe - we are quite happy to be the conduit of discovery. This is a wine European collectors purchase in every vintage, sight unseen, and there are very few producers that fit into such a category. From one of the original growers of Albarino in Rias Baixas (the mostly unexplored region of Atlantic Spain, just above Portugal), the taste of Zarate is difficult to duplicate, even for other producers of Albarino. Founded in the 1890s, the painter's palate that gives the Albarino from this estate its tell-tale bone-dry citrus/crushed herb character is comprised of 11-12 different parcels, on different elevations and exposures. A brushstroke here, a brushstroke there, the history of Zarate dictates that each vintage must be at the level of something special (or at least unique, like the 2004 which was controversial from the get-go). The vines are grown on decomposed ocean matter that sits on a solid bed of granite (and I mean solid). The layers of different soil that the plant has to choose from are unique to this region and the character of the wine would not be the same without the sea matter and rock side by side. That brings us to 2006. The 2006 vintage begins where the 2005 left off (which was also excellent). The 2006 is a classic Zarate with the nervous, taut character that pulses with lime-infused rock and a saline character that must come from sea shells in the soil (have you ever tasted the Atlantic ocean in your Riedel?). Some of the vines are 100-110 years old and the mineral and citrus tone in the wine can be almost startling. Mouthcoating acids and shards of chipped rock swim around the mouth, buffered by tender balls of fresh white fruit that expand and become round and rich without any alcoholic weight or sense of burdensome fruit. No oak is used on this wine so it is angular and fine in the same detail - bright and delightfully viscous but there's also a darkness (and I don't mean color). The Zarate darkness is their proprietary secret and it comes and goes as the wine ages. At times, there is nothing and then at others, it is like an evil twin emerges from the depths of somewhere molten and masculine. If you are into white wine, this producer will sit on the same shelf as those that stray toward Bressan as well as those that call Vatan their hero. Spanish Sancerre with a Huet twist grown on a parcel of land like #18 at Pebble Beach? Yes. Serve with a variety of shellfish, cheese (goat or sheep) or light white meats - lobster and crab would be especially pleased to have their fate cleansed by this beverage. Taking price/value and everything into account, Zarate receives one of the highest recommendations of the year - it's not for everyone, but everyone should indeed gain the experience even if you think your not going to enjoy it. An important and educational wine that will be a highlight of the year for many of you (and the investment is rather meager for something this noteworthy). Will deceptively last for years (up to 15+). ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price - there is only one parcel for the US (we can't get an additional shipment) 2006 Zarate Rias Baixas Albarino Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Spain9020