2020 Mark Haisma Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny

Community Tasting Notes (1) Avg Score: 94 points

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  6/13/2022 - forceberry wrote: 94 Points

  100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from an estate-owned parcel in 1er Cru Fonteny, where Haisma owns 0,3 hectares of low-yielding old vines in the upper parts of the vineyard. Only a small portion (approx. 30%) was destemmed, most (approx. 70%) was vinified in whole bunches. The total production was just two barrels: only one old 228-liter pièce and one new 350-liter cask. 13% alcohol.
  
  Deep and relatively dark black cherry color that permits quite little light through. The nose feels fragrant, quite dry and very nuanced with intense aromas of fresh black raspberries and peppery Pinosity, some meaty tones, a little bit of earth, light perfumed notes of violets, a reductive hint of gunpowder smoke, a touch of salty liquorice powder and a sweet whiff of ethery VA. The wine feels delicate and silky yet surprisingly firm and sinewy on the palate with a sleek medium body and remarkably intense flavors of earthy spices and salty liquorice, some ripe plummy tones, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light gravelly mineral notes, a meaty hint of umami and a sweeter touch of juicy black cherries. The overall feel is quite structured and even a bit tightly-knit with the high acidity and very ample yet ripe tannins that contribute much to the textural feel of the wine, less to the quite gentle tannic grip. The finish is dry, long and juicy with some tannic grip and intense flavors of ripe black cherries and gamey meat, some savory umami tones, a little bit of salty liquorice, light brambly notes of black raspberries, a reductive hint of smoke and a touch of stony minerality.
  
  A beautiful, harmonious and classically built Gevrey-Chambertin that shows exceptional sense of finesse, nuance and depth of flavor. I was struck quite speechless how this wine was not only standing head and shoulders taller than any other Haisma 1er Cru we tasted at the same time, but also how it was (and still is at the time of writing) the best Haisma wine I had tasted. The only thing I was not particularly enthusiastic about the wine was its price - even though the wine is outstanding even now, at a very young age, it is not particularly affordable at 169€, even for its quality. I'm now pretty convinced that Haisma can really produce some outrageously good Burgundies as well, but unfortunately the wines seem to be also priced as such.

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