2010 Albert Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Trocken Alte Reben

Community Tasting Notes (1) Avg Score: 90 points

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  5/6/2022 - forceberry wrote: 90 Points

  13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
  
  Luminous and quite intense lemon-yellow color. The nose feels sweet with rich aromas of lemon marmalade, some peachy stone fruit, a little bit of honey, light floral notes of fragrant orchard flowers and a hint of pineapple. Contrasting the sweet nose, the wine is very dry, concentrated and even somewhat extracted on the palate with a medium body and slightly oily mouthfeel. The taste is quite intense with a rather noticeable, extracted streak of phenolic bitterness followed by flavors of wildhoney, some lemon marmalade, light floral notes, a little bit of pineapple and a hint of spicy red apple. The rather high acidity lends good sense of structure and intensity to the wine. The finish is dry, concentrated and quite bitter with a long and acid-driven aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some apple peel bitterness, a little bit of honey, light stony mineral nuances and a hint of fresh pineapple.
  
  Right from the first sniff I was sure this was a Riesling and the taste confirmed it - although I was surprised how dry, extracted and bitter the wine was after the sweetly-fruited, fragrant nose. The wine felt rather ripe and even slightly oily, which is why my guesses ranged from Alsace to Wachau Smaragd - for some reason I never thought of Gessinger even though I've grown to associate that pronounced bitterness with the Gessinger style of wines. Maybe I just didn't think of Mosel as the wine seemed so ripe and concentrated, which is something I really don't associate with the region. It all made sense, though, when it was revealed that this wine was Auslese Trocken - a style rather rarely seen as the wines can get too ripe to handle the ripeness and alcohol. Well, not in the cool 2010 acid vintage! All in all, a good wine that is in a nice spot right now - although the wine will continue to evolve and improve for a good number of years more. Drink or keep - just be wary of the bitterness, which might need some extra thinking when pairing the wine with food!

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