2013 H.M. Borges Madeira Tinta Negra Colheita

Community Tasting Notes (1) Avg Score: 85 points

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  10/1/2022 - forceberry wrote: 85 Points

  The wine is made with purchased Tinta Negra grapes from Estreito de Câmara de Lobos. The grapes are first macerated with the skins, followed by a brief fermentation of a few days. The must is rectified to approx. 20% ABV with 96% ABV grape spirit to halt the fermentation, after which the fortified wine is transferred to old 650-liter French and American oak casks. The wine is aged in Canteiros, ie. in warm warehouses, in which the wines age in casks that are never topped up. 20% alcohol.
  
  Moderately aged, medium-deep coppery-reddish color with a syrupy-brown hue. The nose feels savory, nutty and somewhat woody with lighter aromas of sweet creamy tones, some syrupy notes, a little bit of alcohol, light raisiny and pruney nuances, a hint of honeycomb and a red-toned touch of strawberry jam. The wine is fresh, intense and somewhat evolved on the palate with a moderately full body and sweet flavors of oxidative nuttiness, some syrupy tones, a little bit of malty character, light caramel tones, a hint of overripe strawberry and a touch of alcohol heat. The moderately high acidity lends good sense of balance to the wine, but the overall feel is quite mellow for a Madeira. The finish is sweet, rich and moderately warm with a lengthy, somewhat oxidative aftertaste of chopped nuts, some malt bread, light sharp notes of lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of caramel, dried-fruit hints of prunes and raisins and a touch of strawberry jam.
  
  A pleasant and harmonious but ultimately a bit nondescript Madeira. The overall feel was similar to the 2005 vintage I tasted a few weeks ago, but showing a bit more freshness and vibrancy. However, the difference between these wines was quite small and neither of these Tinta Negra Colheitas really matched the quality of Borges' blended 10-, 15- and 20-year old Madeiras made with the noble white varieties. Feels a bit pricey for the quality at 19€ for a half-liter bottle, but not prohibitively so.

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