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Garagiste

  • By Jon Rimmerman
    4/3/2008, (See more on Garagiste...)

    (de Tarczal CABERNET FRANC) Cabernet Dear Friends, This is an offer I wanted to save until May but the supply is dwindling at the winery so it’s now or never. Think 2005 was only good in St. Emilion? It was pretty darn good to Trentino as well, especially for the indigenous Cabernet Franc that randomly dots the mountainside vineyards around Rovereto and Trentino. If the Canus Sauvignon from this afternoon was quintessential for 2006 whites, what happens when a structured varietal like Cabernet Franc grows (wildly) in the flank of the Dolomiti mountains and the vines produce less than one bottle per plant? The 2005 de Tarczal Cabernet Franc - a 2005 Saumur-Champigny in Sound of Music clothing. Think Ricola meets 2005 Les Poyeax and you will be close. This wine is so interesting it smells like a clean piece of stainless steel with fresh picked wild catnip, Partaga and cool-toned grape must poured over it. De Tarczal has been making wine from the same estate parcels since the 1600s and this wine is the beneficiary of hundreds of years of knowledge passed down from generation to generation (the 60-90 year old mountain Cabernet Franc vines don’t hurt either). From miniscule yields, some of the plants fail to produce any fruit at all due to altitude (1000-1800 ft) or growing season but in 2005 almost all gave small berries of concentrated mineral must, like combining pulverized rock and the purest, satiny cool-climate fruit. This wine has terrific natural acidity with an expressive personality that yodels (sorry, couldn’t help myself) from the hilltops. Perfectly ripe but still light on its feet with tobacco and dried evergreen whiffs, this low-alcohol wine is a terroir lovers Saturday night beverage of choice when intrigue is the order of the day but so is a light to medium bodied, mineral slathered accompaniment to the meal. This wine proves that a light color and body can still provide ample cognitive impact. A top example that will be a new house wine for many of you. Do not purchase if you are expecting fruit - this is a mountain wine that screams with acidity and terroir. I’ve been saying this often lately but this is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for rarity, uniqueness and a departure from the everyday. ONE SMALL SHIPMENT ONLY directly from the cellars in Trentino: Only 25 cases for the entire US: 2005 de Tarczal Cabernet Franc (Trentino) Please give us your maximum number up to 6/person and we will allocate accordingly. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy9299

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