1976 Jean Bourdy Château-Chalon

JancisRobinson.com

• By Jancis Robinson, MW
  9/25/2012, (See more on JancisRobinson.com...)

  (Jean Bourdy, Vin Jaune Château-Chalon White) Subscribe to see review text.

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  11/18/2008, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (Chateau Chalon BOURDY) Old Bourdy Dear Friends, In preparation for the Bourdy dinner at Stone Barns, I've been trying to get them to release a few bottles of past vintages so some of you can try the wines - this morning they've finally agreed to dig these out of the cellar, label them and send them on their way to us. Think of them as take-home door prizes in celebration of the event. When I use the word provenance, I do not do so lightly. There is regular "provenance" and there's what I call "Bourdy provenance" - cellared in mountain temperatures with requisite moisture, unmoved from their original 16th century underground bins since bottling - basically what I would call perfect textbook conditions (although their cellar is far colder than the US norm, much closer to what Clive Coates has always recommended for long-term Burgundy cellaring - 48-52 degrees). As one of the most historic and important cache's of wine left in France, I feel privileged to be part of the process that allows this craftsman to deliver his delicate art to the individual originally intended - the person that will finally open the cork for a special evening after such a long slumber. If you want to experience wine as it was intended by the vigneronne, here's your opportunity. The Bourdy's can't really place a value on this set of wines as their provenance belies a price (I will shoulder the expense of air-freight from Europe on this lot so it is in our hands only a few days after departing the cellar). All of these are VERY RARE - some with less than 50 bottles in existence - after this they are gone. None of these will be tasted at the diner so this is the only opportunity to try this set of vintages (we will taste other vintages). Due to such miniscule quantities, I will make the descriptions short and to the point - your own experience will certainly surpass my ability to put into words the heavenly character of each. All are vinified traditionally, in old tonneau with native yeasts. Most wines (including whites) are held in tonneau for 3-4 years before release. The Rouge is assembled at the harvest but is primarily Pinot Noir with Poulsard and Trousseau. The Blanc is 100% Chardonnay. All of the wines (red and white) have fascinating natural acidity (from the high altitude) and some have barely a perceptible color and body (intentional and desireable traits). While completely transparent, delicate and unique, these are wines that will appeal to those fond of old Vina Tondonia and Bosconia, old Burgundy or elegant Northern Rhones. Some have alcohol levels barely above 11%, the Chalon higher: 1993 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge The Jura mimics Burgundy in many ways and if you remember how good 1993 was in the Cote d'Nuits, you will be most interested to experience this blend of Pinto Noir, Poulsard and Trousseau. I remember a good friend of mine that claims JF Mugnier's 1993 Musigny is the finest wine of the vintage. That may or may not be so. 2020-2040. 1985 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge 1985 was a very good to excellent vintage in many parts of France and the Bourdy was (in the words of the family) "tres, tres bon". If lemon and grapefruit rind can mingle with raspberry, cherry and a meaty bacon underskin, it would be the 1985 Rouge (yes, lemon and grapefruit are descriptors for the red wine) - this wine opens over several hours and is never the same sip twice. A great Jura chameleon and just as they intended. An experience of subtle mystery. 2010-2020. 1982 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge The 1982 vintage will be remembered as the year that made Robert Parker's career - it will forever be linked to Bordeaux and rightfully so. In 1982, Bourdy crafted what he would call a rousing success that is Pinot Noir heavy and at peak now. Think of the 1982 as the sultry version and the 1985 as the elegant dame - in a way, similar to Bordeaux. A classic. 2008-2025. 1996 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc As good as 1996 was in Burgundy, too many wines have been marred by premature oxidation - thankfully Bourdy obtains his corks from a completely different source and his cellar is far colder than most of Burgundy (besides, oxidation is desireable in the Jura!) - this is the first modern classic example of Jean Bourdy and it's probably the benchmark going forward (as it should have been in the Cote d'Or as well). Dominated by the tell-tale hazelnut character that is a signature of this property, Bourdy's Chardonnay is known to live as long as any example in Burgundy and this is a testament to why - still incredibly youthful with splashes of lime and solid rock, the 1996 will outlive many of us and it's the preferred Bourdy wine to experiment with as your first entry into this other world. 2015-2030 1990 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc From one of the great vintages throughout Europe, the 1990 is extremely rare and Bourdy still considers it one of his greatest achievements. A five star vintage. 2010-2025. 1985 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc An absolutely stellar vintage for Bourdy and one they have a tender fondness for. Tender is the optimum word - this is a gorgeous bottle of aged Chardonnay with mint, nut oil and soil dusted in Partaga-tinged fruit all wrapped in the most lithe and wispy frame of wine. The acidity is extremely fresh and this wine should be enjoyed alone, without distraction. 1976 Jean Bourdy "Chateau-Chalon" (Vin Jaune) From a micro-parcel of Savagnin at the heart of Chateau-Chalon, this rendition of the famous wine is near peak at age 32. This "wine" is a single experience as its Vin Jaune backbone has much in common with the finest old sherry. This wine of meditation is like pressing original air-dried broad-leaf Virginia tobacco and compressing it into a hand-cranked centrifuge of esoteric white wine, earth, mountain herbs and sunshine. If a 32 year old white can be fresh and full of noisette and aged white fruit essence at the same time, it's this wine. 1976 is considered an "exceptional" vintage by Bourdy. 2008-2040. All arrive at some point in early 2009. They will ship during the first available shipping window (weather permitting). Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA SOFR7001 SOFR7002 SOFR7003 SOFR7004 SOFR7005 SOFR7006 SOFR7007