2006 Riberach Côtes Catalanes Synthèse

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  12/1/2008, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (RIBERACH Synthese) Riberach Dear Friends, I hope everyone had a great holiday weekend - I've complied a nice list of TNs from the festivities - some surprises and way too many disappointments. I will post them on the web site in a few days. To continue the holiday spirit and to start the most celebratory month of the year (December), think of this as a gift of sorts (ok, it's not free but it's almost half of what the US price will be) from one of the hottest newcomers on the French block - Riberach. With only a few vintages under their belt, the wines have become almost impossible to find in Europe and there's something of an SQN-like buzz to the winery (although the wine is completely different in style and far more classic). Nestled into the Pyrenees foothills (1500ft) just southwest of Perpignan - you will hear a lot about this property in the years to come as they are not only producing some of the most expensive wines in the south but the terroir and results in the bottle are nothing short of brilliant. From an incredible spot that seems half ancient history and half modernity, this new winery (known locally as "The Snail" for their distinct labels) has a near-perfect set of vineyards located directly in the cooling tunnel of the mountain winds. With a radiant climate, high elevation, the Tramontane winds and vines over 100 years of age the stage has been set for success that cannot be duplicated by manmade intervention - this is a one of a kind spot that mother nature created and it appears crafted solely to capture the glory of the grape. From very old Carignan (a la Priorat), 40-60 year old Syrah and a small amount of old-vine Grenache (5-10%), the Synthese smells of class from the very first whiff - a gorgeous cacophony of dried rosemary, thyme and mineral rich fruit - it has an extra dimension of tannin and sifted rock that sets it apart, a dimension that appears to be imbedded in the most perfumed deep and dense black fruit. The varietal flavors are very pure and full due to the strong solar climate but also chiseled and restrained from the cooling wind and elevation - a combination that is enviable by many of their neighbors. Riberach believes it is the fossilized calcium and dried thyme resin in the soil that makes their wine unique - both elements have made their way through channels in the solid granite over hundreds of years (or thousands in the case of the fossils) and are in direct contact with the vine root structure. If you've ever seen a blanket of creeping thyme on patio rocks, imagine the same image in full purple bloom over a 5-acre parcel of 100 year old vines - dream-like is putting it mildly but it gives evidential credence to their theory - one of the most spectacular and unique scenes I've been fortunate to pass before my eyes. While I applaud their hand-made efforts and the results cannot be denied, I do not applaud their pricing - among the highest in the south (including CdP). It will not be uncommon to see Riberach wines sell for $60-70+ in the US which (in my opinion) is just too high. I realize the market dictates what is "fair" or not but I like this price a whole lot better and the winery has agreed with me for this parcel. If people can't taste the wine then what is the point? I doubt many of you would open a wine on a whim if it carried a $30-40 price tag but at circa $16 it invites experimentation and potential future allegiance to their cause - now that's the sound of sanity. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price This parcel has impeccable provenance, directly from the cellars at Riberach 2006 Riberach "Synthese" Cotes Catalanes (Roussillon) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA SOFR8130