Community Tasting Notes (11) Avg Score: 94.6 points

  • Bottled in 2002 from a glass demijohn containing the last 40-bottle batch of this Barbeito 1795.

    Slightly hazy and very evolved brownish-yellow color. Some particles. Pungent, very oxidative (but not oxidized) and ridiculously complex nose with mesmerizing aromas of roasted nuts, rancio, cigar wrapper, fried mushrooms, some hoi sin, a little bit of sweet molasses, light bruised apple tones, smoky hints of fireworks and charred gingerbread and a touch of antique furniture. The nose has an ancient, dusty quality to it, yet without coming across as musty. The wine is rather sweet, complex and very acid-driven on the palate with oxidative flavors of tart lemony citrus fruits, nutty rancio, burnt sugar bitterness, some cigar smoke tones, a little bit of salty soy sauce, light smoky nuances of fireworks, a hint of molasses, a touch of roasted hazelnuts and a tangy undercurrent of green apples. The high acidity lends exceptional intensity and persistence to the flavors. The finish is incredibly long with very intense, tart and slightly sweet flavors of lemony citrus fruits, salty soy sauce, some mushroomy umami, a little bit of savory hoi sin, light sweet notes of molasses and caramel, a hint of sharp, nutty rancio and a touch of burnt sugar bitterness.

    Well, this was certainly the oldest wine I've tasted, by almost a century, as I've never before tasted a wine that has existed in four different centuries. I must admit that despite its age, this wasn't the best wine I've tasted - it wasn't even the best Madeira I've tasted - but it was nevertheless an exceptional wine and despite its very oxidative qualities (even for a Madeira) it still wasn't oxidized, serving as a true testament to the aging capabilities of Madeira wines. The nuanced and layers here were almost endless and the sweetness seemed to be just at the perfect level, making the wine start off rather sweet, then turning into rather dry towards the aftertaste thanks to the very high acidity, finally opening up to reveal all the five basic tastes - sweetness, sourness, bitterness, salinity and umami - along with a tremendous array of other flavors. While this might not be the best Madeira I've ever had, this is still easily in the top tier. A unique experience by any standards.

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  • Dried fruits, brown sugar, piquant orange with bitter chocolate, roasted tangerine, burnt caramel and sharp acidic character neither add, or subtract from the fact that this is oldest wine I have ever tasted. It is more interesting than pleasurable. But it was truly a great experience, regardless. As a wine, this does not rank with any of the best wines I have tasted before. But as a glass of liquid contemplation, blended with a history lesson, (George Washington was President!) it remains unequaled.

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  • The Twelveth Annual Stonefields Dinner (Guelph, ON): I'm not sure I'm a huge maderia guy, but having said that this was a very good example. Nose of dried lemon peel, perfume, a touch of plastic/rubber, brown sugar, aerosol can, dates, raisins, figs, brown butter, anise root and musky sweat. Palate is still fairly sweet with heady alcohol, however turns a bit bitter and sour toward the finish.

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  • The Twelfth Annual Stonefields Dinner (Guelph, ON, Canada): Nose is all dried lemon peel, brown sugar, flowers, dried orange peel, spice, and a definite rancio character.
    The palate very complex showing marmalade, orange peel, spice cake, burnt orange creme brûlée and dried flowers. There is a noticeable kick in terms of alcohol and the acid is still quite racy.
    The finish for me is where this wine feel down a bit for me…..it was only medium and did not have the expansiveness and power of the other old Barbeito Terrantez that I have tried (1899).
    Nonetheless….this was a real treat and pretty to go back to over the course of the evening.

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  • Certainly the oldest wine or fortified wine I am ever likely to taste and besides the historic context of this Madeira, it was spectacularly good with a rich, long finish. An extraordinary experience and so lucky to catch this at its prime and drinking so well

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  • By Neal Martin
    Hurdling Over Time: 19th-Century Madeira (Feb 2019), 2/1/2019, (See more on Vinous...)

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    Issue #68, 3/10/2012

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