2008 Clos Saint-Fiacre Orléans

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  6/15/2010, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (ORLEANS Clos St Fiacre) Orleans Dear Friends, In some roundabout way, this wine epitomizes the wide-eyed spirit of the Loire Valley and its embrace of all things eccentric and out of the ordinary. If you are a vinous explorer and wish to uncover an emerging area of France, here’s your chance... Not much is known about Orleans and Orleans-Clery but I’ve been spouting off about this region via Twitter and tonight I put my Euros where my mouth is. We first introduced Clos St Fiacre with the 2005 vintage and they’ve maintained a fair distance between their beautifully made wine and most of the other producers in the region. That would be quite an accomplishment in most areas of France but in Orleans (and Orleans-Clery), there are only 4-5 independent wineries! So, let’s say, they are the best of the five, which is still a feather in their cap. Orleans and Orleans-Clery lie at the far northerly bend of the Loire River as it makes it’s way up from Central France and toward Nantes. It is the closest Loire appellation to Paris and its tie to Champagne is controversial and possibly scandalous (more on that later). The preferred grapes of the region are somewhat difficult to understand – in Orleans, the broader region, Pinot Meunier is the dominant grape (I can feel the wine geek boots shaking out in cyber space with the prospect of a dry Pinot Meunier to tantalize the palate) - in Orleans-Clery, the only grape allowed is Cabernet Franc. The strange part is that Orleans encompasses Orleans-Clery but Pinot Meunier must not be planted in vineyards designated as “Orleans-Clery” (although they may be directly adjacent). Both regions are of equal intrigue and both examples are well worth the time and effort. In general, the wines of Orleans and the OC (no relation to Newport Beach) have a crunchy, terroir-focused style with low alcohol and a “real” presence and persona that has few to impress except the local butcher or baker. The difference between this region and many of the other country slices of France is that Orleans is an easy Sunday afternoon’s drive back and forth from Paris. When coolios can hop into a rusty Renault and make the pilgrimage back and forth and still have time for dinner at Café de la Nouvelle Mairie, toting their underground Orleans find for all to see – now we have the making of a phenomena and that’s exactly where we begin tonight’s expedition...at the precipice of a slacker phenomena (two words that have a tough time coalescing). (as an aside, if you are wondering about the scandal mentioned above, it is reported that a portion of the best Pinot Meunier vines in Champagne may have their roots traced to the “lowly” terroir of Orleans – not to Champagne itself. This is not good advertising for the nobility and breed of Champagne but it is very good for the emerging sense of enthusiasm one finds in Orleans. If their stock is indeed part of the root of a grand district of France (in this case Champagne), it gives their wine an immediate leg up. The good news is that they don’t need any help from hearsay – the wines are terrific in their own right.) If there’s a definitive style in Orleans, Clos St Fiacre may be responsible for it. Their Orleans Rouge is mostly Pinot Meunier with the remainder Pinot Noir and it gives the taster much to be excited about. By law, Orleans must be 70-90% Pinot Meunier and 10-30% Pinot Noir and it is just what the Loire-heads are after when they can only scrape together after digging through the floor mats in the car... ...which brings us to the 2008 Rouge from the winery – a definitive example of the region with a present, rocky and fresh quality that will be greatly admired. The nose is elegant and enticing with bramble and berry notes mixed with stone and black currant. The ubiquitous blue fruit of Orleans floods the palate and this light to mid-weight offering lasts and lingers in the mouth as a dance normally reserved for more expensive wines flits and furls toward the night sky. With a notable balance and brilliance to its hue, my guess is that subsequent vintages will begin a steady escalation toward $20 or more. Please note – New Scoring Method: in response to feedback from our tug of war email list (half on the right and half on the left side of terroir), I will try to indicate the overall appeal of every offer from now on in two easy to understand abbreviations: CP or SC. As an example, tonight’s wine may not be for those who “only buy the known names” from Garagiste - it is a high Core Philosophy (CP) example (with palpable levels of terroir, acidity and an overall sense of place) It does not rank high on the “score chaser” (SC) scale. I will rate the two scales out of 10pts – it is possible for a wine to have high marks on both fronts (such as yesterday's Manyetes) and you are neither in the right or wrong if you consider yourself a CP enthusiast or an SC (to be honest, most of us fall into both camps). My goal is for the SC crowd to open their mind and their palate to the CP wines and vice versa. You will not “like” every example you try but you will certainly enhance your overall perspective on the wine-world we live in circa 2010, including your personal palate preference. In sum, it’s a long and winding road to vinous understanding but somebody has to do it...it may as well be you. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED – this parcel is directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance. Garagiste Tug of War Rating (TOW Rating): 2008 Clos St Fiacre Orleans Rouge (Loire) - Please give us your maximum number up to 24/person and we will allocate accordingly To order: niki@garagistewine.com This wine is set to depart the cave – it will arrive in the summer (please check OARS for local pick up after Aug 1st). It will ship during the Fall shipping season. Out of state orders will be held for free under ideal storage conditions (56 degrees/70%humidity) until shipping is possible. Locals may pick up at their leisure. For current local pick up and arrival/ship information, please see your OARS link below (at the bottom of this offer) - don’t know how to access your OARS? Simply click the link and see your account. You can also paste the link into your browser. If you are having trouble with your link or your account, please contact: support@garagistewine.com NO SALES TO RETAILERS OR WHOLESALERS Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Loire2389 Click here to view the status of your orders in O.A.R.S.