| | Siggy invited a group of us to his house to meet up with Kevin Sidders who was in town for the inaugural Twins game at Target Field. No theme was specified but a few of us latched onto the idea of pouring some '88 Northern Rhones. Siggy prepared a rotisserie leg of lamb and I added a black bean ragout with fried leeks to pair with the Northern Rhones. In The Kitchen Kevin and I were there early to help Siggy. He offered us a pour of the Montrachet. We pulled the Moulinet to bridge to the start of the festivities. - 2005 Louis Jadot Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
When popped and poured for the kitchen helpers prior to dinner this seemed really nice, but by dinner darkness and premox had overtaken it. My notes from early on show an expressive nose with tropical fruit, grapefruit, honey, lemon and what I labeled Drambuie. Compact flavors and coarse texture on the palate with nice acidity and a very nice finish. Makes me wonder how great a proper bottle of this could be. (FLAWED)
- 1966 Château Moulinet - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Not wanting to drink all the Montrachet we popped this while finishing our work in the kitchen. The color is brick red but still retaining some cherry red hues. The nose is dusty and funky overlaying cigar and black fruit flavors. On the palate this seems old with minimal fruit or structure remaining but with good minerality. The texture is rather rough for Pomerol. Flavors intensify by mid-palate and lead to a "clingy" finish. Very fun to try but nothing worth seeking out. (87 pts.)
Champagne and Whites We started with a massive plate of cheese and champagne on Siggy's beautiful new patio. We then moved inside for a roasted tomato soup with a goat cheese flan. The plan was for a pair of whites, but the Montrachet was deemed oxidized. - 1969 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut Rosé Vintage - France, Champagne
Light brownish-orange color more reminiscent of cognac than Champagne; almost no bubbles. The nose gives a reserved expression of citrus, caramelized sugar/creme brulee. On the palate this delivers good flavor intensity but a flat palate presence more like a cola than champagne. Nice acidity and medium length on the finish. Fun to sip while sitting in the sun on Siggy's patio and a pleasant way to kick off the night. (86 pts.)
- 1996 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
My second time with '96 Salon. Unfortunately this hit while I was getting the soup ready to serve and took almost no notes. The nose was an awesome combination of ripe fruit and yeast/dough aromas. In the mouth this is packed with clean fruit than fans out across the palate with great intensity. Light and elegant on the palate despite the obvious heft of the fruit. Very well balanced with plenty of acidity. Great length on the finish. This is a special bottle of wine that will be fun to follow for many years into the future. (95 pts.)
- 2000 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Beautiful but subdued chablis nose with great minerality/sea shells. On the palate this is elegant and balanced with just barely enough acidity for me. Great length. A really great bottle of wine, but not the 'wow' for me that a recent '07 was. (92 pts.)
The Main Event Siggy's leg of lamb turned out perfect, and the wines all rocked. When first poured I called them as no more than a 1-2 point spread. With air, however, the two Guigals gained in interest while the Chave faded a bit. Regardless, this was one of my favorite flights in a long time. Tasting these four icons side-by-side proved to be very educational. If anything it reaffirmed by belief that Chave tends toward aristocratic while La Chapelle tends towards wild and untamed -- and Guigal leverages the best of both to deliver near-perfection. - 1988 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Dark red color. Beautiful nose delivering an explosion of aromas including dark fruit, pepper, coffee, bacon and floral notes. Got better and better as the night wore on. The taste is dominated by red fruit with layers and layers of flavor. Great intensity from the attack through the finish. Just barely enough acidity and pretty well resolved tannins. Great, great length on the finish. This bottle showed as more evolved than the previous time I had it and I thought just a smidgen better. (98 pts.)
- 1988 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
My fourth time with Guigal's '88 La Mouline, and with any luck not the last. My notes are minimal, but this showed the same character as La Turque, but with more mineral and licorice on the nose. Delivers a big, elegant mouthful of flavor with every sip. Perfect balance. Captivating finish. This is a wine that seems to deliver near-perfection every time it is opened. (98 pts.)
- 1988 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
When first poured this was the equal of the other three Northern Rhones. In time it retreated a bit, while the Guigals gained. The nose delivers big, hearty aromas of red fruit, pepper and earthy. The taste is dominated by more red fruit with good minerality. Great presence on the palate and a supple, elegant texture. Perfectly balanced. Great length on the finish. A worthy adversary that just came up a bit short tonight. (94 pts.)
- 1988 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
The odd-ball of the group but a sentimental favorite of mine. The nose is exotic and protean in nature, featuring red cherry fruit, licorice, some funk and a strong minerality. On the palate this delivers expansive flavors of red fruit with smoke and mineral. Smooth and elegant with great balance. Excellent finish. A surprisingly strong showing for this wine among three more highly regarded Northern Rhone. (94 pts.)
The Rest of the Reds Dessert was chocolate Bouchons with ice cream. Steve did a great job on these. The wines were a bit of a grab-bag with the last two delivering great drinking experiences. - 2001 Domaine Tempier Bandol - France, Provence, Bandol
Pouring this blind after an inspired flight of '88 Northern Rhones was a mistake. The nose gives roasted dark fruit, coffee and the smell of alcohol. On the palate more coffee and the prominent taste of alcohol. All I could come up with for a guess was Zinfandel. Not recommended.
- 1985 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
Poured blind. Badly corked. Too bad.
- 2000 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo Cannubi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Light and happy nose of red fruit and licorice. Compact flavors on the palate with nice red fruit and tons of acidity. Nice finish. Very solid wine. (91 pts.)
- 1990 Château Léoville Poyferré - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Popped and poured. Big expressive nose with dark fruit, earth, tar, coffee and more. Classic Bordeaux. On the palate this delivers red fruit with good flavor intensity but is still very, very structured. Long, tannic finish. I repeat, classic Bordeaux. Excellent stuff. (93 pts.)
- 2001 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
It's traditional to end a night at Siggy's in Burgundy, and he didn't let us down. Popped and poured. Awesome Dujac nose of stemmy dark fruit and coffee aromas. The taste is equally great with great texture and great balance. A perfect way to finish the evening. Thanks Siggy. (95 pts.)
Another great, relaxed night of food, wine and friendly dialogue. I'd call the two Guigals a push for WOTN. Thanks again to Siggy for arranging such a great dinner. |
