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 11/2/2010 (Institute of Directors, London)
 

 

Part 1 of a comprehensive 29 vintage vertical held over two nights, organised by Linden Wilkie and compered by Christian Seely, the MD of Axa Millesimes which owns the chateau. Sadly I was only there for the first night which concentrated on the odd-numbered vintages. The first flight of 09/07/05/03 is perhaps the most spectacular run of young bordeaux I've had - all intense, exotic and yet fresh and balanced. The next four (01/99/97/95) are wines I'm quite familiar with, like them a lot, but they are overshadowed by the more recent wines. Christian explained how yields have been dramatically reduced since he took over in 2000. The 1989 was not showing right. The 1961 and 1945 both superb. A great tasting and I'm sorry to have missed out on the even years.

 

  • 2009 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    (cask sample) Thick, unctuous, very ripe, but not sweet or heavy, spicy blackcurrant fruit, fine tannins, absolutely stunning (95 pts.)
  • 2005 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    More reticent than the 09, but similarly thick and fresh. Lots of spice and, unusually for PB some cedar. Open, exuberant and long and quite spectacular (94 pts.)
  • 2003 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    More markedly tannic than the 09 and 05, but this was very approachable and even more intense. Oaky, exotic, extraordinary (94 pts.)
  • 2007 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Spice and game, smoke, coffee, reasonable depth, high acid, but overall rather lovely (93 pts.)
  • 2001 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    I've enjoyed this more in the past on its own, but after the spectacular younger wines, this was somewhat overshadowed. Lighter and more elusive on the palate, but showing a very attractive strong spicy tone. Surprisingly tannic, but still a very fine wine (91 pts.)
  • 1999 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Ripe, but fresh with mocha and smoke, quite exotic, rather lovely (apparently has a much higher merlot content than usual at 30%) (92 pts.)
  • 1997 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    This too was ripe and deep, showing the characteristic spice again, intense, full, and sharp. Others didn't share my enthusiasm (91 pts.)
  • 1995 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Hotter than the preceding trio, though noticeably the same wine in a different vintage. High tannin, high acid, and a bit severe right now (89 pts.)
  • 1991 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Dark, but with a raw, weedy green streak, which overpowered the smoky fruit and made it all rather unpleasant
  • 1989 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Ripe and full, but muted, a bit oxidative and faded I thought, despite the whack of tannin on the finish, and not a patch on previous bottles. Grew bovrilly in the glass. One or two present loved this. (88 pts.)
  • 1986 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    A bit stalky, but some nice rich fruit on the palate, and for an 86 not particularly tannic (89 pts.)
  • 1966 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Medicinal, fungal, and a touch unclean, some sweet fruit, very firm finish. Just about ok
  • 1961 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Fresh, with cedar, earth, a medicinal tone. Huge depth of fruit. Brilliant! (94 pts.)
  • 1955 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Clearly corked to my palate - others not so sure (FLAWED)
  • 1945 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Brown, but bright, high-toned, spirity, some eucalyptus, a round sweet core. Fresh. Fabulous (94 pts.)

 


 
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