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 8/22/2013 (Tom's house in Palo Alto, California)
 

 

Event organizer notes:

Tonight, we'll have Part 2 of our 1983 Cabernet Retrospective. Going into the first part a month ago, there was some concern that these old Cabs would not be holding up after 30 years. The general view is that they are generally still going strong and even the most frail of them are complex and interesting. This said, the first tasting was full of big surprises. Based upon reputation most would have expected Montelena and Lynch Bages to finish at the top. The Montelena at seventh had supporters and detractors, with the latter commenting on the tough character and noticeable leather and tar. The supporters (including my 2nd) focused on the still fine core of black currant and cassis fruit, with a minerally complexity and enough tannin to carry it for a while further. The Lynch Bages was clearly evolved, with complex plums, red cherries, grass and cedar -- a prototypical old Bordeaux with perhaps a little to much tannin in the finish. I think many would point out that the Lynch Bages was doing very well, but the ones above it were doing even better.

Among the latter, the top three were all surprises -- even shocks. Lightly regarded Chateau Montbrisson, which some might argue should be drunk within ten years of the vintage, was still in beautiful shape, full of cherries, plums, tea, grass and complexity -- classic old Bordeaux. The Fretter probably got most tasters' guesses for the Montelena -- and was very much in the style of that winery, with a great core of fruit and a decade or two of fine drinking ahead of it. The Fogarty Steltzner straddled the California and Bordeaux styles, with elegant cherry-ish fruit and grassy and weedy complexities.

In Part 2, we'll have a lineup headed by Gruaud Larose and La Dominique on the Bordeaux side and the Sterling Reserve and Diamond Mountain Cabernets on the California side, plus a remarkable Australian Cab from Eden Valley which, at 11.2% is a fine example of how low alcohol Australian Cabernets can age.


 

Pre-Tasting Flight:

Main Flight:

  • 1983 Château Gruaud Larose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
    Light red color. Fabulous earthy nose with cedar and some (good) bret (A). Gorgeous palate (A-)
    My #1, Group's #3 (5 pts). Tasted blind. (94 pts.)
  • 1983 Château La Dominique - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Light red. Generous nose (B++/A-). Very tasty palate (B++/A-).
    My #2, Group's #2 (63 pts). Tasted blind. (91 pts.)
  • 1983 Château Lanessan - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
    Dark red color (with lots of sediments). Earthy nose (B++). Tasty palate. Still a decent amount of fruit left. Well integrated (B++).
    My #3, Group's #4 (68 pts). Tasted blind. (90 pts.)
  • 1983 Robert Keenan Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Dark red color. Excellent nose (B++). Excellent palate, but seems to be past it's peak (B++).
    My #4, Group's #7 (79 pts). Tasted blind. (90 pts.)
  • 1983 Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain Ranch Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain
    Browning on the edges of the glass. Very good nose (B+/B++). Well integrated palate (B+/B++)
    My #5, Group's #6 (78 pts). Tasted blind. (89 pts.)
  • 1983 Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Very good, although modest nose (B+). Soft palate (B+)
    My #6, Group's #1 (!) (56 pts). Tasted blind. (88 pts.)
  • 1983 Château La Serre - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Very good nose (B+). Tasty palate (B/B+).
    My #7, Group's #8 (93 pts). Tasted blind (87 pts.)
  • 1983 Tollana Cabernet Sauvignon Bin TR222 - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
    Very light red color. Very good nose (B/B+). Average palate. Too fruity (B-).
    My #8, Group's #5 (73 pts). Tasted blind. (86 pts.)

Post Tasting Wine:

 


 
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