| | The wines were of consistently very high quality, in a diverse range of styles. This might be the best large-format tasting I’ve ever been too - I was excited to go to every table! Egly-Ouriet A new discovery! - N.V. Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru Tradition Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
4 years on lees)
Detailed and en-pointe nose of fresh, ripe apples (green and yellow), fresh brioche interior, slight baguette. In the mouth it’s fresh, delicious, and gorgeous, with slight toast, fresh bread, and apples. It’s like drinking an iced pastry. Persistent finish.
Score: Between 9 and 9.5 (92 pts.)
- 2004 Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru Brut Millésimé - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
(9 years on lees)
Aromatically darker than the NV and more developed, brooding even. Savory tones. Finer mousse than the NV, and more pinot character - a bit of the Pinot sweatiness. I prefer the NV because of the freshness, but this is clearly of high quality.
Score: Around 9 (90 pts.)
Zind-Humbrecht, Gaia, and a Savennieres - 2013 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
Nearly dry - a slight pillow of sweetness indicates maybe 3-5g/L RS (correct - actually 5g/L). A bit reductive, needs some time.
In the mouth, saffron botrytis, slight petrol, green apples, and a hint of texture and weight - maybe lees stirring? Alcohol is moderate (12.5%). The acidity is beautiful, nervoux and crystalline. There’s such a complexity here. Translucent young fruit on a backdrop of beeswax and stone. In the spectrum of Alsace, it's on the refined, delicate, purer side.
Compared to the 2010 Heimbourg (the last ZH I tasted), this is cleaner and purer. The Heimbourg was a bit showier, with searing acidity, more botrytis, higher alcohol, and higher apparent RS (though pretty close at 5.5 g/L). The Heimbourg is near Turkheim (and the soil, as you'd guess, is granitic). The Clos-St-Urbain is from Rangen, near Thann - the southernmost Grand Cru, at a higher elevation than most vineyards in Alsace, and on Volcanic soil (I believe the only Grand Cru on Volcanic soil?). Do the soil, elevation, and aspect explain these differences? Or is it mostly winemaking style? It seems that the Heimbourg ripens at a lower potential alcohol. Hmmmmmmm.
Score: Between 9 and 9.5
TA: 4.7 g/L
pH: 3.0 - lower than the 2010 Heimbourg and the 2010 Clos Windsbuhl
RS: 5 g/L
Alc: 12.5% (92 pts.)
- 2014 Gaia Assyrtiko Wild Ferment - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
A bit of well-integrated waxy oak, some ripe Meyer lemon (smells like warmer-climate fruit character, but still tart), some ripe peach, and some toast and faint caramel. In the mouth, beeswaxy and intensely high malic and tartaric acid. Waxy with a spritz of ripe lemon and ripe peach. The intensity and length of this is impressive! More emotive than then the Zind-humbrecht Rangen de Thann ’13, but I like them both immensely.
9-9.5 (92 pts.)
- 2011 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières
Burnt wet wool, slight botrytis, slight honey, bruised apple oxidation (slight).
If I were doing this blind… there’s slight RS - maybe 4-7g/L, but the elevated alcohol (14%) would take me to Savennieres over Vouvray.
Gorgeous.
Score: Around 9. (90 pts.)
Australia! What better way to be introduced to Hunter Semillon than by a mini-masterclass from Veronique Rivest! - 2014 Andrew Thomas Wines Sémillon Braemore - Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
Light greenish-straw, lots of green.
Waxy lime peel, a bit plasticky and reductive.
Lean, mean, and green. Needs time.
Light body, diminished alcohol 11-11.5%? (actually 10.8%)
High acid. No phenolic bitterness.
Squeaky clean - no malo, no oxidative aging.
Score: Between 8.5 and 9. (88 pts.)
- 2005 Tyrrell's Sémillon Vat 1 - Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
Light greenish-gold.
On the nose, this smells like it’s been lightly oaked! It seems to be an illusion created by the unique flavors of aged semillon.
Lime peel - smells green. Slight baby-wipe, reductive pithy quality that mimics oak. It almost seems buttery. It’s beautiful.
On the palate, shows no signs of malo, extremely high acid, and diminished alcohol ~11%? (actually 11.2%).
I love this style! It smells like lightly-oaked chardonnay but is super high acid and low alcohol, and super dry.
Score: Around 9 (91 pts.)
- 2012 Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 407 - Australia, South Australia
Fascinating nose - liquorice, eucalyptus, menthol. Smells cool and ripe. Well-extracted, elevated acid (possibly slightly acidified, but elegantly so). Well-balanced with medium-plus rounded tannins. Young still but very nice expression of fruit. Oak works well, presenting as restrained gingerbread.
12 months in 30% new French and American oak (and tastes like it - moderate influence).
Score: Around 9 (91 pts.)
- 2010 Penfolds Grange - Australia, South Australia
Beautiful. Slight eucalyptus, blackcurrant liqueur, dark fruits- black pepper. Faint suggestion of green bell-pepper pyrazines, but very ripe (could be more green olive and eucalyptus). Hint of savoriness - I’d venture slight brett/animal fur. Delicious with intense fruit and savoriness. Elevated tannins - well-rounded by oak treatment. Ripe, rich, with excellent acidity.
Score: Between 9 and 9.5
4% Cab, 96% Shiraz (92 pts.)
- 2010 Voyager Estate Chardonnay - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
(This was made by James Revie!)
Pastry cream, creme brulee.
Light, with long acidity and elegance - like a Puligny. There’s savoriness here - long and integrated with some malo hints on the finish. A bit reductive on the nose. Restrained - 13% alcohol.
This is by far the most impressive Chardonnay I’ve had from Oz - it lived up to the hype! Great selection, Lulu!
Score: Between 9 and 9.5 (92 pts.)
White Burgundy - 2012 Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Lean, not a lot of oak influence on the nose. Citrus-driven and steely. There’s some weight in the mouth - “broadens out in the back-palate” as people have said about chardonnay. On the palate, there’s a pronounced kiss of new oak or some partially-used barrels- not full-blown new oak treatment, but enough to be consistent with a Grand Cru - it’s working well for me. High acid, mostly strong tartaric (malo influenced). Slight leesiness on the nose, with a veneer of oak. Persistent and high-acid. Lovely style.
Fermentation: 3 weeks (50% stainless steel, 50% French oak)
100% malolactic
Aging: 6 months (50% stainless steel, 50% French oak)
Score: Between 9 and 9.5 (92 pts.)
- 2012 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Les Clous - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Not very aromatic. Some lemon-pastry going on. Strong medium-plus acidity that’s mostly tartaric - malolactic influenced. Suffers by comparison in this room.
Score: Between 8.5 and 9. (87 pts.)
Guigal SO GOOD. - 2011 E. Guigal Hermitage Blanc - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Elevated aromatics - bitter fruit, beeswax I can’t place one aroma - pear? varnish? verbena? white peach? nectarine?, slight vanilla cream (oak influence). Medium acid and high phenolic bitterness. Slight oak influence - creamy texture. Medium alcohol - 13%?- and has an oily heft. It’s making me think of marzipan, and aspic. Something giving this aromatic explosiveness that I can’t put my finger on. Persistent with compelling aromatics.
95% Marsanne, 5% Roussane
All the Ex Voto fruit went into this in 2011.
Score: Between 9 and 9.5 (92 pts.)
- 2011 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Château d'Ampuis - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
7% Viognier
Slight reductive, smoked meat, tart fruit- cranberry, blackberry - ripe and tart. Glistening, translucent aromatics. Elevated acid, medium tannins. Hint of pepper and animal character on the palate. Earthy, savory.
Score: Between 8.5 and 9. (88 pts.)
- 2007 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Château d'Ampuis - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Way better than the ’11!
7% Viognier, 38 months in new oak (and I didn’t notice any influence - it’s super-well integrated and I wasn’t especially looking for it).
Medium red with some garnet at the rim. Clear and bright.
Savory and perfumed. Dried roses, smoked meat, light animal character, well-integrated dark fruits. Rich on the palate with solidly medium tannins. Persistent, with black pepper and refined elevated acidity. Beautiful. This is what I think of as Cote Rotie (well… this and the 2000 La Mouline).
Score: Between 9 and 9.5 (92 pts.)
Failla Well made but not my preferred style. - 2013 Failla Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
Ripe, red fruit, slightly confected (whole cluster?), a brushing of new oak - some of le maquillage. Pretty, with an overall impression of sweetness - the acid is a bit less than I’d like. Slight warmth of alcohol on the finish. Well made, but not my favorite style.
Score: between 8.5 and 9. (87 pts.)
- 2013 Failla Pinot Noir Occidental Ridge Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
(warmer climate than the Anderson Valley)
A bit darker fruit - a bit acid-deficient for me. Purity of fruit is great, but not my favorite style ever. Clearly well-made.
Score: Between 8.5 and 9. (87 pts.)
Diamond Creek Impressive cabs! - 2011 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Gravelly Meadow - USA, California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain
Blackcurrant jam, blackcurrant liqueur, black cherry juice. Intense fruit, well-integrated oak. Alcohol is correctly elevated, ~14%. Tannins are aggressive. Acid is elevated as well. Nicely-structured, though a bit hefty for my taste. I bet this will be awesome in 20 years.
Score: Around 9. (90 pts.)
- 2011 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Red Rock Terrace - USA, California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain
This is Brett-influenced! There’s an animal savoriness that, for me, makes this way more interesting than the Gravelly Meadow. Dark, intense cassis, with density of fruit, grippy medium-plus tannins and elevated acid. Well-structured. Delicious, and has a reasonable amount of complexity even in its youth.
Score: Between 9 and 9.5 (92 pts.)
- 2011 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill - USA, California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain
2011 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill
A little Brett-influenced. Savory, intense fruit. Black-currant liqueur. Balanced with intense fruit and robust structure. Great stuff.
Score: Between 9 and 9.5 (92 pts.)
Produttori The differences in quality were stark. - 2013 Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Reductive, bright fruit, papery high tannins. not my favorite.
Score: Between 8 and 8.5. (83 pts.)
- 2011 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Floral, bit of liquorice, red fruit. Perfumed and seductive. Classic structure, on the pretty side of Nebbiolo.
Score: Around 9 (89 pts.)
- 2009 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Single-vineyard barbaresco Riserva
Darker - slightly oxidative, in the blanc-de-noir realm. Elevated alcohol, elevated acid, and properly high tannins - deliciously chewy. Classic structure with excellent aromatic complexity.
Score: Between 9 and 9.5 (92 pts.)
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