Boys' lunch

The Ledbury really pulled the stops out today; stunning food for stunning wines

White asparagus, chilled soup, muscatel grapes, marjoram and olive oil

• 2002 Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Cuvée Rare - France, Champagne
  Light and floral on the nose, then big, rich and toasty on the palate - really super duper

Roast foie gras, carrot, apricot

• 1983 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
  Full-throttle petrol nose, huge, fat, fruit pastille-sweetness on the palate, this is spectacular
• 1983 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese Nr. 87 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
  Beautiful mouthwatering lime nose, confirmed on the palate, where it's actually very rich, although after the Prum monster it doesn't seem so. But this too is gorgeous.

Breast of pigeon, smoked beetroot and cherries

• 2009 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
  Very very pretty cherry menthol burgundy, just like Amoureuses should be, but it does finish hot and this grew more noticeable in the glass

Suckling pig, creamed jersey royals, mousserons cooked in earl grey tea, wild garlic

• 2000 Domaine Denis Bachelet Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
  Cool, balanced, this has a bit of everything - brown sugar, grip, citrus, earth - and it's all fully resolved - sensational

Two puddings

Wild and gariguette strawberries, clotted cream, rosé and lemon verbena

Prune tart, orange and cardamom ice cream

• 1990 Joh. Jos. Prüm Bernkasteler Johannisbrünnchen Riesling Eiswein Lange Goldkapsel Auction - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
  Brown, and in some ways mellow in the way the flavours have resolved, but of course this is uber-intense - very special