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World's Greatest, Hong Kong - Night II |  (598 page views) | | 6/8/2018 (Garden Suite, Peninsula Hotel) |
| | - 1996 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
Fresh, vibrant, youthful, high acid. Laser beam focus, tension, and power. All citrus tonight, no brioche or toast yet here. Very good, but in this flight along with the '69 and '71 this is all about energy. Chiseled chalk minerality. (94 pts.)
- 1971 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
This is darker in colour than the ‘69 and is also much more mature on the nose with an oxidative creaminess and nuttiness without that same citrus fruit. Still very good, but mature in a way comparable to the ‘73 Krug Mag last night. Oxidization increasing with time. Palate is browning apple with some fall spices. Tasty but mature in a way the ‘69 in the next glass is not even close to yet. Unfortunately advanced and think this should be brighter. 93 +/- as is, but would expect 96+ territory in a fresher example.
- 1969 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
Pale gold in colour, surprisingly light. The nose is as fresh as can be and is classic Salon with cream, citrus, and toasted nuts. A great deal of bright citrus fruit. Very youthful. On the palate there is so much yellow and green fruit, pear. Effervescent and lively still. Big mineral texture with bright acidity. The youth is very impressive but there is also a weighty and developed blanc de blanc cream and toast. Almond. The similarity between this and the ‘96 is very interesting, totally comparable in terms of power and tension, built from the same blueprint. Simply incredible and in the top champagnes I've ever had. (98 pts.)
- 1985 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
[Magnum] Spectacular nose, big reduction, smoke, lemon curd, lemongrass, incredibly fresh and clean. The ‘83 and ‘85 are neck and neck. Amazing. I think the ‘83 might have a little more vibrancy whereas the ‘85 has a little more buttery weight. Rich palate with ripe yellow fruit. Such weight and fruit. Came back to this after three hours and the aromatics have only excelled. Everything I want in white burgundy both on the nose and palate. Extremely showy, and knocking down most of the old Ramonet Montrachets tonight, in my opinion. 96-97. (96 pts.)
- 1983 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
[Magnum] Spectacular nose, big reduction, smoke, lemon curd, lemongrass, incredibly fresh and clean. The ‘83 and ‘85 are neck and neck. Amazing. I think the ‘83 might have a little more vibrancy whereas the ‘85 has a little more buttery weight. This palate has rich and dens yellow fruit plus more energy and tension than the ‘85. Mineral definition. Everything I want in white burgundy both on the nose and palate. Extremely showy, and knocking down most of the old Ramonet Montrachets tonight, in my opinion. (97 pts.)
- 1985 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
[Magnum] On the nose I honestly prefer both the Leflaive Chevaliers. This is clean and pure and golden but isn’t overly expressive or showy. Picks up a little more spice and weighty fruit. The palate however is beautiful in any case, rich and has great acid and minerality. (94 pts.)
- 1979 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
[Magnum] Beautiful but subtle nose that has intriguing beeswax, honey, and smoke above dense tropical fruit. Lots of spice. Mint. Blossoming and beginning to show florals over rich yellow fruit. Palate has excellent tropical fruit. Bright acid drives the rich flavours. Great magnum, probably peak performance, very good but the '78 750 is superior. (94 pts.)
- 1978 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
This is the best nose of the Ramonet Montrachet flight. It is the most expressive and showy. Smoke and mango fruit. Spectacular array of spice and dried fruits. Coffee and mocha. This is the freshest and brightest of the flight too. On the palate this has light apricot and the fruit is maturing. Real Montrachet caliber richness and breed. Coming back to all of these and this is just spectacular, knocking down the magnums of '78 and '85 quite easily. Checking notes, the last and only time I had this was at the greatest wines weekend last year, and it was corked then. Massive vindication here. (96 pts.)
- 1955 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Spectacular nose, highly expressive and distinctly Haut-Brion with a detailed array of spices. Damp leather, scorched earth, cigar box, red cedar. Very rustic and soily. Forward and showy. Floral. On the palate this is soft, elegant, and silky. Classic, absolutely beautiful, at peak. Preferred this to the '53 Lafite. (95 pts.)
- 1953 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Dark and moody, less projection but detailed. A little more tertiary whereas the ‘55 Haut Brion is forward and showy. Dried berry. On the palate this has great red fruit and is lush relative to the ‘55 Haut Brion. Structure and power. On the nose this has blossomed and is now highly expressive and floral. Very alive and dynamic. The perfume. (95 pts.)
- 1949 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Somewhere between the ‘55 Haut Brion and the ‘53 Lafite in terms of expression and projection as well as brightness. Lead pencil, graphite, gravel. After very close examination I prefer this the least out of the flight, although it is still great. On the palate this is sweet berry, bright but light. 93-94. (93 pts.)
- 1911 Château Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Finally a Latour that is settling down. The nose is dark teas, red berries, and dried leather. There is still power lurking in the background, but this is soft and elegant. It only livens and brightens up with air. Getting really showy light but totally fresh red berry fruit. On the palate this is bright and lively as well, perfectly resolved and integrated fruit. Delicious. Balanced. Really a terrific Bordeaux, not just a 100+ year old novelty. (96 pts.)
- 1928 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Soy, hoisin, and worstecher at first. Swirling brings out more blackberry. I’m getting less on the nose here. The palate however is bold and punchy and has big blackberry fruit still. Not as good as the '29 Mouton in the next glass, nor the 1911 Latour in the first. (92 pts.)
- 1929 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
This nose is Burgundian with elegant red cherry fruit, damp earth, and a terrific array of spices. Sexy and racy. Very playful aromatics. Good example of what Mouton can be in its best iterations. The palate here is sweet and the red cherry fruit is at about peak maturity. Delicious. (95 pts.)
- 1990 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Beautiful nose, cool blue fruit, cherry cola, elegant, clean and pure. Fresh and youthful. Surprised at how primary this smells. Bold even. Palate is quite dark and absolutely stuffed with black cherry fruit. Powerful. Roses, but also soap. The first time I had this wine was near the beginning of my Burgundy education and it was one of the most memorable and impactful bottles, and I have had one since. Terrific tonight as well, slightly better than the '85, certainly younger and punchier, but the '79 was the clear champion. (96 pts.)
- 1985 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
The nose is darker than that on the ‘90 and isn’t as fresh up front with a little more earth influence. A little swirling yields the same cool blue fruit. This palate is sweet red fruit at maturity. Higher acid. Absolutely delicious. A little dirtier but still so aromatically complex. (95 pts.)
- 1979 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Spectacular bouquet, easily the wine of the flight on the nose, highly floral and elegant. Ethereal. Soft red and blue berry fruit. Chai teas and soft blueberry. Playful and pure aromatics. Flashy. On the palate this is delicious and approachable and still has plenty of fruit stuffing. Much more comparable to the '90 than the '85. (96 pts.)
- 1989 Henri Jayer Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Nose is clean and pure and Initially quite sweet. A quick swirl and this absolutely blossoms into floral red and black cherry. Quite big actually. This Jayer flight is so soft and elegant and requires a lot of attention. The ‘89 is a little roasted and has more in the way of that tomato note I get in Rouget sometimes. On the palate this is fresh, round, and structured. A little sweet, but very good, imagine about peak performance here. (96 pts.)
- 1991 Henri Jayer Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Nose is clean and pure with dark red and black cherry and florals, dark red roses. This Jayer flight is so soft and elegant and requires a lot of attention. Still smells quite big and dark. Palate is spectacular, still youthful with layers of berry flavor and texture. Long detailed finish. On the youthful side but approaching perfection. There is nothing quite like these wines, textural and aromatic purity and detail. (97 pts.)
- 1993 Henri Jayer Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Clean and pure dark red and black cherry fruit in the same way way as two two Cros Ps alongside but a bit of swirling brings out a distinct echezeaux stalky terroir. Aromatically detailed and with good projection. You kind of want / expect the Cros Ps to be the greatest, but this Echezeaux is sensational. A month or so ago a few of my friends drank one of these after I had already gone to sleep, so I was very eager to try this out, and it was all around excellent. (97 pts.)
- 1978 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Awesome nose, classic notes of roses, florals, acrylics, dusty earth. Some are calling this a little too bold and brawny, but I still see the expressive and elegant aspects. Palate is lush and flavorful, but also very big. Vastly superior to the '78 La Chapelle last night, but similarly dense, intense, and dark. 93-94. (93 pts.)
- 1985 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Awesome nose, dark cigar smoke, damp earth, smoked meat, and with beautiful florals lingering above. So youthful and bold. Palate is youthful and intense but is in a good place delivering a lot of developed and hedonistic black fruit. Pristine bottle of this first vintage, although I feel like I've got more expression out of '88 and '91 recently. (96 pts.)
- 1991 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
This is the second time in two months this awesome wine has been placed at the end of a marathon dinner, which is certainly a disservice to its detail and elegance. Pretty violets and red cherry but less of anything in the way of scorched earth. Palate is youthful and intense. A particularly lush bottle with dense blue and red berry. Delicious. Solid. (95 pts.)
- 1953 Schloss Reinhartshausen Erbacher Siegelsberg Riesling Edelbeerenauslese - Germany, Rheingau
Blind you’d go Yquem with 100% certainty. Dark amber in colour. Apricot, caramel, brown sugar, cinnamon spice. Some fresh vanilla extract. Dark bruised yellow fruit and a sort of grainy texture. Grainy pear.
Schloss Reinhartshausen Erbacher Macrobrunn Riesling Edelbeerenauslese. I'm sorry this is posted / categorized incorrectly, but I do not know nearly enough about these old Rieslings to add this. The label also said 'Cabinet', with a C...
- 1953 Schloss Schönborn Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese - Germany, Rheingau
Similar to the Edelbeerenauslese but far darker and with molasses. Grainy and muddy. The palate is way better than the nose on this and is sweet and thick. Not perfect.
1953 Schloss Johannisberg Fürst Von Metternich Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese. I'm sorry this is not posted / listed correctly, but I do not know nearly enough about these old riesling to add it.
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