| | We organized an informal holiday dinner. Eight of us got together at the private room of Officina. The wine service by John was perfect as usual and the dishes were spot on once again!
 Champagne RJ generously brought the 96 Krug and this as the back up bottle. Since it is always interesting to compare the regular cuvee vs Oenotheque of Dom Perignon, we drink this instead. I actually like them equally but the others seem to prefer the Oenotheque. i really enjoy the Elisabeth Salmon which is very vinous and perfectly ready. - 2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
Perfectly mature yet vibrant nose displaying decadent yellow citrus and white fruit, lemon curd, candied lemon zest, apple, white flowers, candied ginger, smoke, brioche and crushed rocks. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of ripe lemon curd and fresh apples juice, generous very fine mousse, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and an incredibly long sweet citrus fruit driven finish with strong brioche and smoke at the end. It is interesting to compare to the 96 Oenotheque. For me, this shows the power and decadency of Batard where the Oenotheque shows the finesse and subtlety of Chevalier. When I first tasted it In September of 2010, it was near perfect and showed incredible potential. A lot of people didn’t care for it back then, perhaps not recognizing that Dom Perignon really needs time. It is nice to see that most people love it now as it has reached the perfecting drinking window. Another exceptional showing. (97 pts.)
- 1996 Dom Pérignon Champagne Oenothèque - France, Champagne
Incredibly refined example. Exquisite nose displaying subtle yellow and white fruit, fresh lemon, apple pie, peach, strong brioche, white chocolate, a hint of burnt sugar, white pepper, cinnamon and mineral. Perfectly harmonious palate, incredible finesse, very finely layered subtle yellow and white fruit, medium abundant very fine mousse, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long subtle peach and lemon curd driven finish with white chocolate and brioche at the end. Showing exceptional finesse and detail. Although consistently excellent, there seem to be a significant bottle variation, i.e. some are youthful and energetic, others are refined and subtle. Excellent showing. (97 pts.)
- 1998 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon - France, Champagne
Very elegant “pretty” vinous nose displaying subtle red fruit, raspberry candy, strawberry soda, cooper, cinnamon, brioche and limestone. Very refined palate, subtle shy red fruit, small amount of very fine mousse, lovely finesse and balance, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a seamless subtle red fruit driven finish with cinnamon and copper at the end. This is drinking perfectly and no need to wait. Love to savor a whole bottle. (94 pts.)
Raveneau I love Raveneau young but even for me, this is too young! - 2015 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Initially served a bit cold. Incredibly youthful and slightly coiled nose displaying very ripe yellow tropical fruit, pineapple, fresh lemon, banana ice cream, a hint of mint, ivory soap that dissipates, cool mountain stream and limestone. Very energetic but coiled palate, sweet ye pure yellow fruit, good energy, bright acidity, strong mineral and a medium to long coiled yellow fruit driven finish with limestone and banana at the end. Being coiled and primary, it feels fat yet there is very bright acidity which is fascinating. I love young Raveneau but even for me, this is too young. If you must, decant for a couple of ours. Minimum five more years of cellaring is recommended. (93 pts.)
Fourrier CSJ Both very pure yet voluptuous. I slightly prefer the 16 which is a bit richer and rounder. - 2014 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Very youthful expressive nose displaying generous cool black fruit and a hint of red, blackberry, black cherry, cranberry juice, crushed rose petal, sap, stem, cedar/oak and mineral. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated cool black fruit, dense and unctuous yet beautifully polished, bright acidity, strong mineral presence, and a long intense black fruit and sap driven finish. Although incredibly young, generous opulent fruit a la Jean Marc makes it really pleasurable to drink. It is purer and fresher but perhaps a bit more angular than the 16 version. Excellent consistent showing. (95 pts.)
- 2016 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Hedonistic expressive nose displaying opulent yet pure black fruit with a hint of red, crushed blackberry, black cherry, a hint of strawberry jelly, a hint of liquid smoke, smoked meat, heavy cream, dark spices and earth. Excellent concentration, opulent sweet black fruit, rich, round and warm but also pure and detailed, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long sweet black fruit driven finish with a hint of smoke and dark spices at the end. I slightly prefer the 16’s richness. Excellent showing and a long promising life ahead. (96 pts.)
Rodin and a ringer For my palate, Rodin's expression is similar to Rousseau's. This is flirting with perfection. - 2010 Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Les Ouvrées Rodin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Youthful yet incredibly complex and perfectly harmonious nose displaying subtle perfectly ripe red and black fruit, essence of blackberry and raspberry, light caramel, mocha, a hint of rose and cedar, Asian spices and subtle limestone mineral. Perfectly harmonious palate, layers upon layers of elegant red and black fruit, unbelievably elegant and refined, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and the finish that never ends. This has to be most noble form of liquid sex. Incredibly showing, my WOTN. (99 pts.)
- 2014 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Clos de la Mousse - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Justin serves this blind along with the Rodin. Very youthful nose displaying slightly masculine black fruit, also dark spices, lavender, medium steak and strong earth. Excellent concentration, concentrated black fruit, a bit chewy and meaty, good acidity and strong earthy mineral, and a medium to long concentrated black fruit driven finish. This is a big scale earthy wine. Knowing how Bouchard’s beaune ages, this can easily improve for a couple more decades. For my palate, the expression is similar to more earthy NSG 1er crus. (92 pts.)
Giacosa The 96 RL Ralletto is a monumental wine. - 1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
IMO, this has to be the biggest scale and the most concentrated Giacosa wine. The color remains impenetrable. Expressive nose displaying rich concentrated black fruit, blackberry, a hint of dry cherry, rose, fruitcake, ink, licorice, caramel, tar, basking spices and strong iron. Incredible concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated slightly dry black fruit, unctuous yet polished, rich, deeply toned and round, bright acidity, strong iron mineral, and a long intense dry black fruit and cherry driven finish with tar and iron at the end. Although this has entered the youthful peak, it remains incredibly young and can easily improve for a few more decades. Truly a tour de force and vin de garde! (98 pts.)
- 2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Beautiful harmonious nose displaying warm slightly dry red and black fruit, blackberry, a hint of dry cherry, caramel, licorice, rose, cinnamon and strong iron. Fully integrated palate, finely layered sweet cherry fruit, clean, precise and detailed, warm and round, good acidity, strong iron mineral, and a long sweet dry red fruit driven finish with iron and cinnamon at the end. It is always fascinating and educational to taste Giacosa’s Barolo and Barbaresco together. The Falletto shows so much power and masculinity where this shows warmth, precision and femininity. It constantly evolves throughout the evening. Lovely wine. (95 pts.)
Rayas and a ringer I drank the Gramenon Cuvee Pascal earlier this month and thought the style closely resembled Rayas. John serves blind and everyone guesses wrong. I correctly guess based on process of elimination, i.e. The Rayas is so delicate it doesn't taste like the Gramenon. Blind tasting is the great equalizer - 1995 Domaine Gramenon Côtes du Rhône Cuvée A Pascal S. - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
I drank a bottle earlier this month and the sweet ripe cherry fruit and tobacco reminded me Chateau Rayas. I asked John to serve this and the 98 Rayas blind. Perfectly mature expressive nose displaying ripe red fruit, cherry liqueur, cherry pie, dry cherry, caramel, tobacco, anise, white pepper, cinnamon and limestone. Excellent concentration, nicely layered decadent red fruit, remains dense and unctuous, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long concentrated decadent red fruit driven finish with white pepper at the end. Initially, I am guessing this is the Rayas. After tasting the second wine which was rather light, i.e. it can’t be this wine, I guess correctly by a process of elimination. Everyone guesses as the Rayas. (94 pts.)
- 1998 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
John serves blind along the Gramenon. Very delicate slightly diluted nose displaying subtle shy cherry fruit, also strawberry jam, a hint of green pepper, tobacco, black pepper, garrigue and cinnamon. Fully mature palate, subtle shy red fruit, silky and airy, good acidity and mineral, and a medium long subtle red fruit driven finish with black pepper and tobacco at the end. Everyone guesses as the ringer. Being a label whore that I am, I revisit a few times throughout the evening. It is deceptively light but there are telltale signs of Rayas. It reminds me a bit of the 08, i.e. deceptively light and feels diluted yet the nose can open up displaying subtle yet decadent cherry fruit, tobacco, garrigue and etc. Everyone is disappointed and moves on. Absolutely need to revisit soon. (93 pts.)
Rayas - 2001 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Corked! (FLAWED)
- 2004 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Beautiful mature yet youthful nose displaying cherry liqueur, black cherry, lavender, black pepper, garrigue, tobacco, dark spices and earth. Beautifully integrated youthful palate, finely layered cherry fruit, silky and polished, bright acidity, good earthy mineral and a long sweet cherry fruit driven finish with tobacco and black pepper at the end. It constantly transforms throughout the evening. Really enjoyable. (94 pts.)
Bordeaux The Pichon Lalande is very fresh but badly corked. The 90 Margaux is incredible as usual. The 82 Haut Brion is fully mature and ready to go. - 1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Corked, so darn fresh, extra shame! (FLAWED)
- 1990 Château Margaux - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Another incredibly youthful showing. Explosive nose displaying intense concentrated blue and black fruit, crème de cassis, blueberry concentrate, black cherry, lavender, ink, licorice, caramel, a hint of vanilla/oak, lead pencil and mineral. Incredible concentration, layers upon layers of unbelievably concentrated black fruit, unctuous yet extremely silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, tannins mostly masked by concentrated fruit, and a long intense concentrated black fruit driven finish with ink and lavender at the end. Although it has entered the youthful peak, this can easily improve for at least a couple more decades. (98 pts.)
- 1982 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Initially a hint of dirty damp cellar which blows off. Beautiful fully matured nose displaying subtle sweet red fruit, strawberry jam, plum, lead pencil, strong tobacco, cigarette ash, leather and earth. Fully integrated harmonious palate, finely layered subtle red fruit, silky, warm and round, nicely integrated acidity and earth mineral, and a medium to long subtle sweet red fruit driven finish with ash and tobacco at the end. This is fully mature and drinking beautifully. (95 pts.)
Yquem We proceed to the roof top which has an incredible view of Potomac river. It is pretty cold but we enjoy this great wine! - 2001 Château d'Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
It has shed opulent primary fruit. Perfectly balanced nose displaying decadent yet pure yellow fruit, apricot tart, peach preserve, dry mango, candied orange peel, ginger candy, crème brulee, strong saffron and honey, vanilla, and spicy spices. There is a hint of red currant. Beautifully integrated energetic palate, layers upon layers of slightly dry concentrated sweet yellow fruit, incredibly intense and oily yet also pure and weightless, bright acidity, good mineral presence and the finish that lasts over a minute with strong saffron and candied ginger at the end. We all agree that this will outlive all of us. A great way to end the perfect evening. (98 pts.)
Most of us have known each other for a decade or longer and now are great close friends. A great time was had by all! |
