Clos des Réas / Pontet-Canet tasting-cum-lunch

Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas

• 2006 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
  Very different from the bottle tasted two years ago. Firm, slightly dusty tannins, not a lot of Vosne typicity, quite a difficult wine, firm and structured but not very expressive, length is good though. (90 pts.)
• 2007 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
  Light but wonderfully fragrant, blue fruit and Asian spices, very seductive, fully mature, juicy but ever so slightly drying on the finish, very good length. (92 pts.)
• 2008 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
  Fresh and transparent, hint of evolution, not as exotic as the 2007, beautifully dense fruit, well managed tannins, slightly savoury, balanced and energetic. (92 pts.)
• 2009 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
  Relatively timid nose but everything in place, broad and expansive palate, powerful finish, hint of alcoholic heat. Impressive but needs time. (93 pts.)
• 2011 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
  Fragrant nose and firm palate, showing well, typical 2011 firmness in the tannins, lovely flavours, very good length. (91 pts.)
• 2011 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
  Rich and warm nose, ditto palate, black fruit, well enveloped tannins, Steven found a hint of Côte Rôtie in it, and I can see why. (92 pts.)
• 2012 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
  Elegant and seductive, lovely ripe fruit, firm tannins, pure and well defined but generous and supple, complete, a vintage that suits Clos des Réas like a glove. (93 pts.)
• 2013 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
  Very tight and energetic, little noticeable oak, relatively tough, on the hard side, does not have the charm and generosity I have come expect from Clos des Réas, slightly uneven perhaps, red currants and cranberries. Probably low-level TCA. Not rated.
• 2014 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
  Very expressive nose, spice box, high quality oak needs time to integrate, lovely fruit; wonderfully fresh and juicy, luxurious oak; complete finish, excellent length, lots of potential, perfectly judged tannins. Punches well above its weight in this vintage. (93 pts.)
• 2015 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
  As rich as the 2009 but with more freshness, firm but velvety tannins, beautifully balanced and complete, deep but airy, great fruit and spice, excellent length. Marvellous. (94 pts.)
• 2016 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
  Still a bit young and unformed, but this has true star quality, energetic and generous, so pure and precise, ripe fruit and freshness, already excellent oak integration, lovely density of fruit, great length. (94 pts.)

Château Pontet-Canet

• 2000 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Beautifully complete and characteristic Pauillac, wonderfully true to type, slightly meaty, rich and rounded but elegant and fresh, firm but ripe tannins, excellent length. (93 pts.)
• 2001 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Fresh and energetic, pure and precise style, light yet firm, smoky, linear, good length. (92 pts.)
• 2002 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Light structure, still with delightfully sweet Cabernet fruit but not as juicy and fun as 5 or 10 years ago, spicy, firm tannins, savoury finish, nice but ever so slightly overworked. (91 pts.)
• 2003 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Beautifully expressive, sweet fruit but also has elegance, line and length, tannins are ripe, hint of spice, excellent persistence. An outstanding performance in this challenging vintage. (93 pts.)
• 2004 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Leathery nose, quite developed aromatically, red meat, fresh style, firm tannins, needs food. Not as brilliant as the bottle tasted in 2017. (91 pts.)
• 2005 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  This is the bees knees, was spectacular in youth and then completely closed down, and is only slowly re-emerging from its shell. Patience is still required. (95 pts.)
• 2006 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Tough as nails, dusty but with lots of primary fruit, very closed, red meat, slightly reductive, very tight and tannic, slightly one-dimensional finish. Lacks charm. (91 pts.)
• 2007 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Quite an edgy nose, bordering on volatile, attractive but not really correct, light and drying palate, short finish. Weak. (89 pts.)
• 2008 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Closed, fresh, spicy, more about energy than about depth, elegant style, very good length. (92 pts.)
• 2009 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  A powerhouse, but not big or brutish, black fruit, an essence of Pauillac in a warm vintage, rich fruit, juicy and rounded, great energy, stylish and sexy, hint of warmth on the finish. (94 pts.)
• 2010 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Masculine, muscular, rich and classical, pure and precise, still extremely young but bursting with potential, concentrated and relaxed, excellent length. Magnificent. (96 pts.)
• 2011 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Third bottle from a full case purchased at auction in 2016. Pristine bottle, perfect level and cork. Does not have the power of the 2009 or 2010, but it is a beautifully classical Pauillac, elegant and fresh, floral and elegant, with refined oak tannins, and good length. A lovely drink. (92 pts.)

Lunch

• N.V. Charlot Père et Fils Champagne Cuvée Spéciale Zéro Dosage - France, Champagne
  Made from 100% Pinot Meunier, full malo, ripe fruit so does not need any dosage, fresh and dry but supple and flavoursome, a lovely palate cleanser after 11 vintages of Clos des Réas and 12 vintages of Pontet-Canet. (90 pts.)
• 2011 Van Volxem Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Alte Reben - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
  Intense yet elegant, ripe year, citrus and wax, spicy slate, delicately sweet, juicy and supple, fresh and rounded, excellent length. (93 pts.)
• 1975 Weingut von Othegraven Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Auslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
  Light and refined, pure like a mountain stream, delicately sweet, intensity without weight, flowers and slate, long and elegant. (92 pts.)
• 2007 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
  Both bottles in excellent shape. Classic Bâtard, intense and fresh, in a very elegant style. (94 pts.)
• 2004 Mas de Daumas Gassac - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault
  Double magnum. Rich and spicy, wonderfully juicy fruit, relatively light structure, sweet and supple, clean and rounded, honeyed tannins, very good length. (92 pts.)
• 2005 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
  Half bottle. Waxy, delicately sweet, maracuja, peach and apricot, beautifully balanced and elegant, peach and cold tea, long and delicious, very elegant but lacks some acidity on the finish. (94 pts.)