| | Our beautiful Spanish friend to celebrate her 40th birthday asked us to join her at what became The Return to San Sebastian! Lunch at Kate Zaharra, Bilbao ( https://kate-zaharra.com/) Straight from the plane to lunch, Spanish style startign at 3:30 with Jamon in the wine cellar and finishign at 6:30 with coffee and armagnac in the top floor chilling room surrounded by Bilbao's gastronomic society.
Very good old school restaurant. Classic and well made food in excellent location atop the hills. The wine list is so so but if one searches a bit and has a few discussions with "El Jeffe" gems can be found. - 2001 Marqués de Riscal Rioja Gran Reserva 150 Aniversario - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja (5/17/2019)
From magnum and frankly at peak now. Soft and well matured , earthy and leathery and feels a bit older than it is. Well assimilated oak , well evolved fruit, elegant wine albeit lacks depth and complexity. Solid 90-91 (91 pts.)
- 2004 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 890 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (5/17/2019)
Very young and oaky, American oak all around and a bit too intense. Needs time to evolve to anything beyond this at this stage and best forgotten for a good 10yrs if one want to get this to deliver unless young Rioja is what one loves. 90 for now and really not a special wine , yet (90 pts.)
- 1989 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (5/17/2019)
We found this little treasure hidden behind some old bottles at Kate Zaharra, Bilbao and following some negotiations with “el jeffe” we got there.
And worth it. Bottled for the 100yrs of Athletic Bilbao in 3L this was a treasure for lovers of classic well aged Rioja. Soft , elegant, earthy, leathery and just effortlessly elegant. Soft, silky , soft fruit. Very good and worth the effort! 92-93 (93 pts.)
- 1976 Francis Darroze Bas Armagnac Chateau de Saint-Aubin, La Houga Gers, 30 years - France, Southwest France, Gascony, Bas Armagnac (5/18/2019)
By the glass at Kate Zaharra, Bilbao stashed away with the antic bottles.
Soft well evolved , caramel touches but also spirited and firm. Very good and elegant. Special too.
Dinner at Rekondo, San Sebastian ( http://www.rekondo.com/en/) A classic restaurant atop the hills of San Sebastian. Proper food, superbly made and with what is probably among the best wine cellars in Spain. No modern shenanigans and fancy molecular cuisine here. Just great food and wine. - 2015 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (5/17/2019)
Young tight and a bit powerful. Not very giving and frankly a bit too young. Our friend went for it given the price was too good not to try but the truth is it was far too young for it. No point in rating at this stage.
- 1950 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (5/17/2019)
Opened and left to rest. From the great cellar of Rekondo, San Sebastian. Was tasted along with the 1978 and this was really impressive and a lot better than the 1978 ( Papies 91). Fresh in a way and very much alive and with lot of presence. A true testament to the great Rioja's of years past. Savory wine with a smoky touch, earthy but still with feel of fruit. Burgundian in a way a superb bottle. 95+ (95 pts.)
- 1978 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (5/17/2019)
Opened and left to rest. From the great cellar of Rekondo, San Sebastian. Was tasted along with the excellent 1950 ( Papies 95+) which was really impressive and a lot better than this 1978.
Dusty, savory and with a soft meaty side. Earthy of course and well evolved, a touch tired and lacked the energy of he 1950. Very good but on its last few legs. Good bottles of this will be an experience though in a way that only old school Rioja delivers. 91 (91 pts.)
- 1991 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (5/17/2019)
Opened and left to rest. From the great cellar of Rekondo, San Sebastian.
Still quite a lot of oak on this, dominant in many ways still. Smoky, sweet american oak. Good fruit though, juicy and with a ripe edge, soft secondary touches. Still a bit dominant on the oak front which was a bit of a let down for a wine of this sage and pedigree. Good 91 and we would suggest one lets this age more. (91 pts.)
- 2002 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore (5/17/2019)
2002 is not the most obvious of Bolgheri vintages but as we are great lovers of the 2002 Sassicaia ( Papies 93-94) we cherished the opportunity to try the Ornellaia 02 especially fromt he great cellar of Rekondo, San Sebastian.
Dark fruited, soft spice, a lot more substance here from the Sassicaia, a lot less evolved and touch on the reserved side. Where the Sassicaia 02 is frull of charm and evolution, this is more "powerful" and a touch one dimensional in a way. Still silky, soft tannin and with good healthy fruit. Solid 91-92 wine and drinks very well now. (92 pts.)
- 1985 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Valbuena 5° - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (5/17/2019)
We asked for the 1995 but the sommelier at the excellent Rekondo in San Sebastian brought the 85 and we took a cue from the universe to try it. We shouldn't have had.
This is now fully matured and albeit has a lot of positives it lacks a charm and complexity in its all age ( Bordeaux specially made albeit Napa has it too) and was a bit monotonous. Maybe we should have decanted it but frankly did not feel like it evolved much. Interesting but maybe paying the price for all that extraction and ripeness it probably had at the start of its life. 91 (91 pts.)
- N.V. Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único Reserva Especial 1991, 1994, 1999 (2012 Release) - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (5/17/2019)
This should have been the peak of our dinner, a great Vega from the great cellar of Rekondo, San Sebastian but it was frankly a bit underwhelming and lacked a charming side or could we say an exciting side.
Big and juicy, quite a bit of noticeable oak, rich and with power but not heavy. Just the power and ripeness of this makes it a bit blunt and charmless. This is not to say that is a bad wine, but for the pedigree and price one expects more and unfortunately with Vega RS we do come across this blunt/charmless side more often than not. 91 for now. (91 pts.)
Birthday Lunch at Zuberoa, San Sebastian ( http://www.zuberoa.com/en/) A superb restaurant, a classic and where classic food meets a modern twist with a lot of creativity however without losing its core values. A Must and with a wine cellar to please everyone. - N.V. Pagoa IPA - Basque Craft Beer - Spain, País Vasco (5/18/2019)
When in Rome sort of IPA but it made for a great star for our lunch at Zuberoa, San Sebastián.
- 2010 Pazo de Señoráns Albariño Rías Baixas Selección de Añada - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (5/18/2019)
This is one of the most special Albarinos and well aged samples like this show what can be achieved with good fruit and good wine making.
Quite a dense wine, well managed oak just on the background adding weight but not interrupting the wine. Citrus touches, mineral but what stays is the depth of flavor akin to very old vine wines. Superb 92 and will easily evolve for a few more years. This is one to look for. (92 pts.)
- 1991 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (5/18/2019)
Opened and left to rest for a good half hour.
Much like the 1991 Imperial we had the day before ( Papies 91) this had a solid core of oak, sweet and smoke american oak which in a way is currently overwhelming the wine. Maybe this like the Imperial needs time to evolve and assimilate the oak. Good 91 for now. (91 pts.)
- 1991 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (5/18/2019)
From a beautiful magnum sourced from the wine celler of the excellent Zuberoa in San Sebastian.
We debated on opening this given price and how sometimes Vegas can be blunt and underwhelming ( We had this issue the night before with the 2012 Reserva Especial release.. Papies 91) but this just reminded us with not much funfair why this wines rank among the best in the world.
This was such a pretty wine, feminine for a vega, still with a lot of fruit but with an effortless elegance and a silky side. Shows evolution but its really still young but not brash or sharp. Just you are reminded over and over that this has a lot more to evolve and has a lot of ageing capacity. Dried fruit, floral touches, cedar, dark cherry notes. Superb, 96-97 (96 pts.)
- 1964 Federico Paternina Rioja Ollauri Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (5/18/2019)
When one is in the excellent Zuberoa where these old treasures were sourced directly from release trying these wine is a must. And we could not say no.
This great 1964 is now in a fragile state, sold, well matured but very much alive and healthy. Just it needs to come from a well trusted cellar.
Well matured, earthy, soft spice, lingering fruit, silky and very soft on the palate. This wine is an experience that needs to be felt and especially given the very reasonable to cheap prices Zuberoa charges a must for any wine lover. Granted this does not have the Tondonia 64 energy but still a great experience. No need to rate frankly.
- 2001 Bodegas Vinícola Real Rioja Confesor - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (5/18/2019)
Opened and left to develop in the bottle. We should have decanted for a good 30 minutes and thus advisable.
Definitely a modern wine in style, with good ripe fell, well extracted and with a decent amount of oak in its elevage. Still though at this age it is very much a pretty wine, just about moving to secondary, herby /spice feel and with a very solid palate feel. This could well evolve and age a a few more summers. Good wine to show that modern Rioja can age. 91 (91 pts.)
- 2012 Fernando Remírez de Ganuza Rioja Trasnocho - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja (5/18/2019)
Massive wine and frankly very young and aggressive. Big extract here, lots of oak use, still very glossy youthful on the color front. Impressively youthful still as if it was 2 years old and frankly no need to rate. Give this a good 10yrs more and try again
- 2000 Château Sociando-Mallet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc (5/18/2019)
This is now well in its drinking window but still on the youthful side and showed very little of a secondary side. Spice on the nose, white pepper and soft licorice touch, herby edge. Dark fruit and very much energetic and alive and this could easily age for another 10yrs before reaching its peak. Maybe lacking a bit of density on the fruit but still this is a good reminder that this level of Bordeaux chateaus can deliver solid results in good vintages. Solid 91-92 for now. (91 pts.)
- N.V. Gota a Gota Orujo - Licor de Hierbas de Galicia - Spain (5/18/2019)
Not sure how this ended up on our table at Zuberoa In San Sebastián but this is not for the faint of heart.
Must be served chilled and is in a way a Genepi made in Galicia. Same story different country.
- N.V. Roger Groult Calvados Pays d'Auge 12 ANS D'AGE - France, Normandy, Calvados Pays d'Auge (5/18/2019)
By the glass at Zuberoa, San Sebastián.
Elegant and very enjoyable calvados, good pedigree that delivers and recommended if one is looking for something like this.
- N.V. Caol Ila 18 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky, 43% - United Kingdom, Scotland, Islay (5/18/2019)
By the glass at the excellent Zuberoa in San Sebastián to close a beautiful lunch.
For lovers of smoky , peat single malts this could well be the peak, soft and elegant, spirited but with a caramel and of course smoky edge. Very good but we wonder if single malt purists think of this kick like we think of overoaked wines.
Pitxos around the old city, San Sebastian Urola, Zeruko & Gandarias - 2014 Abadia Retuerta Selección Especial Sardon de Duero - Spain, Castilla y León, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León (5/18/2019)
A good and enjoyable wine albeit a bit on the textbook/generic side of modern and ripe Spain.
Rich, good amount of oak, powerful but also in a way not heavy or blunt. Lacked a bit of an exciting side but for the age and price this was a good wine. 88 and better young while it as a freshness. (88 pts.)
- 2014 Bodegas Pintia Toro Pintia - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (5/18/2019)
Opened and served. Rich and ripe, good use of oak. Round and silky on the edges even at this young age and definitely the design and elevage of this wine is to be had younger than older and at this 5yr mark was drinking very well. Textbook modern Spain with all the hall marks but also very good and one could not ask for more for the price to accompany great pintxos at the excellent Gandarias, San Sebastian. 90+ (90 pts.)
- 2005 Artadi Rioja Pagos Viejos - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja (5/18/2019)
6 years sine we tried this last ( Papies 92) and Nicol spotted this hidign int he list of the great Pintxo Bar Gandarias in San Sebastian. Well worth it.
Still very much with a modern edge but it has assimilated the oak well, the ripe, rich fruit is still there and the wine was still very much alive. We questioned a lot these modern Rioja's as to whether they would age but this Artadi showed us that they can and frankly this wasily can age a lot more and develop even more. Very good now if one likes still the fruit focus but has potential to evolve we felt nicely going forward too (92 pts.)
- 2005 Oremus Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos - Hungary, Tokaji (5/18/2019)
Quite a bit of color here but also youthful and glossy. Not sure this is 6 density or 5 but still very much a rich and dense wine but with a freshness and with good acidity that gives the wine a lightness and is in no way heavy or cloying. Ripe apricots, honey touches, a touch exotic. Very solid and an understated treasure of a wine. (91 pts.)
- N.V. Sopie Frizzante Chardonnay - 5.5% ( Azul) - Spain (5/18/2019)
We saw this at Zeruko in San Sabastian and we had to try it.
Sweet and confectionery, a blend of herbs, sugar and wine, a bit like a Chardonnay with moscato. They can’t call this wine legally as it’s not red or white and frankly rightly so. If this doesn’t scare you nothing will. Avoid.
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