| | A selection of wines across the terroir of Puligny and running the gamut from BB to GC Aperitif Generic and Village Unusual to have a Blagny from Puligny - excellent showing tonight though. A really strong first flight. - 2015 Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Very Puligny. Wonderful broad nose that closes a little with time in glass. Slight reduction. Mouthwatering and fleshy. Long but a touch green. Delicious but just lacks a little precision and intensity (is made from young vines in Les Houlieres and Les Parties, just SE of Puligny village). (89 pts.)
- 2016 Jean-Louis Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Les Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Rich and crystalline nose with powdery flowers and a hint of struck match. Smoky and tropical - the evident acidity is pineapple rather than citrus or green apple. Lactic and delicate finish. Good but too unshowy to be great. (90 pts.)
- 2015 Domaine Comtesse de Cherisey Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Wonderful, broad and floral. Epic nose has a perfect amount of spicy, struck match oak influence (although only 10% new). Chewy, fat, round and juicy on the palate - full-bodied but with supporting acidity. Long mealy finish evidences time spent on the lees. Delicious. (94 pts.)
1er Crus to the Centre and North Folatieres is the lynch-pin of the village's 1er crus. Referts and Champ-Canet are up against the border with Meursault, the latter up-slope. Superb flight. - 2015 Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Big, gamey nose, with (attractive) whiffs of rancio and polish. Crisp and powerful on the palate, so savoury and chewy, but also complex and floral. Long, mesmerising, butter and honeycomb finish. Hefty proportion, but all in balance - great showing tonight, and classic Puligny 1er cru. (96 pts.)
- 2016 Jean-Philippe Fichet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
No new oak, but attractive, soft nose is still of vanilla and coconut, with some exotic spice. Palate has savoury, subtle power but is a touch lean and steely in 2016. Finish is long but a little flat. (91 pts.)
- 2016 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Gutless, and disappointing for its level. Floral, gentle nose is a little vegetal and has no oak influence. Takes the back seat on the palate, with refreshing lemon/lime. Wood doesn't feel integrated yet. If you have this wine, leave it at least a couple of years. (87 pts.)
Exceptional 1er Crus Cailleret is adjacent to Montrachet and Chevalier, Pucelles is adjacent to Batard and Bienvenues-Batard. These wines need time. - 2016 Michel Bouzereau et Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Not a showy wine, but a delicious one, with wonderful line and balance. Complex and chewy on the palate, showing exotic fruit, crystal sugar, white flowers, bruised apple and a touch of butter. Refreshing and lactic. (94 pts.)
- 2015 Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Punchy nose with butter and gamey notes - very attractive. Still young and tight on palate, and lacking a little bit of focus despite its elegance. Juicy citrus acidity, and long, but the finish collapses slightly. Should come together with time. (92 pts.)
Famous Grand Crus Pleasing that the 2015s were so open. My first try of straight Montrachet predictably disappointing! - 2015 Olivier Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Lime and butter on nose. Rich but so elegant - compared to the 1er crus this is like watching in high definition, with power and detail. Lipsmacking citrus and so long. A triumphant chorus! (97 pts.)
- 2015 Olivier Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Lots of oak here. Taut, mineral citrus. Sharp and lithe. Granny Smith apple and a hint of leesy sweetness on the finish. Grand vin, but I prefer a richer style. (94 pts.)
- 2012 Maison Roche de Bellene Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Lacks a bit of tension and slightly restrained and vegetal on nose. Gradually smooths out in the glass to show honey, cheese, cabbage and socks. Floating and weightless, but also chewy and profound. Sweet apple on finish.
Not sure what to make of this - from a lesser vineyard I'd say it was over the hill, but maybe it's young in a way I haven't experienced before. Pretty sure not a flawed bottle - colour was good, and was shared with a number of participants. (91 pts.)
Most of the wines tonight were 2015 and 2016, and the event helped me conclude that I really enjoy the style of 2015. Vintage influence seemed to override terroir distinction, although the Batard and Chevalier (same vintage, same maker) both showed true to type.
Leflaive (both Domaine and Olivier) knocked it out the park again. |
