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 1/11/2023 (Lorne)
 

 

Thoroughly lovely evening. Burg theme evolved pretty organically and it worked out well I think.

 

Sea Bass Tartare

This was outstanding. What takes it from good to great is the chunks of batter on top. Better than it sounds.

  • 2008 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
    Some fear of pox - no need to worry. Super expressive on the nose. On the palate - super balanced, there’s generosity there but superb acidity too. The balance of the wine is such that you don’t *really* appreciate the acidity, but the way your mouth waters after drinking it means you know it’s there. Over time an almost bitter hazelnut character develops. This is a lovely wine, a real treat.
  • 2015 Olivier Leflaive Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Marc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
    Much paler colour than its flightmate, and on first pouring struggled to shine. Perfectly decent but a little muted by comparison. Over time, and with food, really opened up. More delicate, on nose and palate, but a gentle grace to it, and some length. We probably opened these in the wrong order - and certainly a wine I’d enjoy tasting again.

Onglet

Perfectly cooked and presented - great foil to the wines.

  • 2010 Denis Berthaut Fixin 1er Cru Les Arvelets - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin 1er Cru
    On pouring, a little earthy funk to the nose, and on the palate it seemed a bit soupy. Some air (and again…the food) really brought it back together - lovely burgundy structure but an almost Cornas animale character to it. 2010 seems in a great spot just now.
  • 2012 Mark Haisma Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
    After mixed experiences with previous bottles, this was opened with some trepidation. Again, the wine gods smiled on us and this was clean as a whistle. Lovely acidity, a hint of - maybe not greenness but, tomato leaf? Lovely structure - again, a great foil to the food.

Cheese

  • 2010 Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corvées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
    A generous bonus bottle opened to go with the cheese. Much less advanced than the previous 2010, there was no funk at all here. Red fruits, cherry stone, a hint of marzipan but no lingering sourness - lovely drink, and more than the two preceding reds, one that non Burgundy lovers would appreciate.

Wines of the dinner definitely the whites for me, but everything showed well, and a reaffirmation of just how alluring Burgundy can be.

 


 
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