| | Too many wines so brief notes, but what a line-up! '04 Chave will definitely be on the shortlist for my WOTY, other favourites included '98 Comtes, '98 d'Angerville Champans and the Egon Muller that I brought as an extra in case the Saxum wasn't to everyone's taste. Champagnes and whites - 1998 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
Along with some others I thought this was quite Krug-like. Rounder and richer than the ‘99, but with beautiful precision. Powerful and complex with some secondary development from ageing. Stunning wine. (95 pts.)
- 1999 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
More linear and tensile than the ‘98, in line with what I usually expect from Comtes. Nice saline drive, very good for an unheralded vintage. Still very youthful and fresh but a slight step below the stunning 1998. (94 pts.)
- 1975 G. H. Mumm & Cie Champagne Brut Millésimé - France, Champagne
Still some fruit left but dominated by generic old sherry notes. (88 pts.)
- 2004 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
Broad, rich and oxidative; thought this was a Bollinger as it didn’t have Dom’s signature reduction. Hedonistic and drinking well today, but not as complete as the ‘02 that I had last year. (93 pts.)
- 2019 Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben-Thanisch) Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Too alcoholic and syrupy, lacking acidity. Consistent with my previous experiences with this maker - disappointing. (87 pts.)
- 1989 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
Guessed 1990 Huet - vibrant but resolved fruit that suggested a strong vintage, high acidity with slight woolly notes that made Chenin an obvious guess. Superb for its age, fresh with sweetness that wasn’t overbearing. Shame I didn’t get much of this since I couldn’t drink much more at this stage. (93 pts.)
- 2018 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Brought as an extra. Extremely reductive on opening, so would suggest giving this a lot of air as it blew off after a few hours. Very pale colour. Pure, weightless fruit on the palate, no sign of the warm vintage at all. Drinking beautifully despite its youth, loved the seamlessness and focused drive on this. (94 pts.)
Reds - 2005 Prince Florent de Merode Corton-Clos du Roi - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Guessed 2005 Chambolle since I thought the pair was same producer and plot but of different vintage. Didn’t feel like a Burg at first with a moorish, almost Loire-like nose. Masculine and not very refined, sour cherry fruit was a little out of balance. (89 pts.)
- 2008 Prince Florent de Merode Corton-Clos du Roi - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Guessed 1999 Chambolle since I thought the pair was same producer and plot but of different vintage. Higher acidity and more balanced than the 2005, but still was a little rustic and lacked elegance/excitement. Quite a forgettable pair. (90 pts.)
- 1998 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Thought this was a Nebbiolo at first from the VA; had an incredibly perfumed and lifted nose. Palate also had high acidity and tannins. But when it was revealed to be a Burgundy, guessed 2002 CSJ because of the dark, sappy and refined fruit. Still very structured, will last for a long while yet. Very much in my wheelhouse. (94 pts.)
- 2009 Benjamin Leroux Mazoyères-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
Guessed ‘06 Gevrey weak GC. Cork wasn’t in the best condition apparently so this was a compromised bottle. Slightly advanced with a strange mint note. (FLAWED)
- 1957 Maison Albert Bichot Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Guessed Pommard from the 1970s because of the iron notes and glimpse of its previous structure. Surprisingly alive, despite obviously having mainly tertiary notes such as mushroom and forest floor. Agreed with the others who said that this probably wasn’t a 100% Pinot haha. (91 pts.)
- 2019 Jean-Marc Millot Côte de Nuits Villages - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages
Finally a 2019 that is drinking well, haven’t had much luck with them so far. Still a little over-exuberant for me but at least it wasn’t just one-dimensional primary, jammy fruit. Met expectations for its level. (89 pts.)
- 1977 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
Thought it might have been a Bordeaux at first but the sweet fruit slowly emerged to make clear that it was a Napa. Smoky, dark cherry fruit, gained structure and asserted itself more with air. These old Napa Cabs have consistently been a treat; love how they evolve so differently from aged Bordeaux but are equally enjoyable. (94 pts.)
- 2004 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Wow everyone guessed a high-class Burg for this. So perfumed, silky and with velvety tannins I thought it had to be from a very good maker like M-G. I adored the red-fruited nature, supreme elegance and sensual finish here. Agreed with the person who brought this that Chave in cool years might be the play here, and another northern rhone that was mistaken for a Burg to add to the list. One of my best wines of the year. (96 pts.)
- 2006 Saxum James Berry Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
My contribution. 76% Syrah, 18% Mourvedre, 6% Grenache and a whopping 16.7% alcohol. Most managed to identify this as an American Syrah. Still quite youthful, most guessed that this was around 10 years old. A huge, powerful wine with dark cherry fruit but in a restrained rather than hedonistic manner. Not my style but could drink this, unlike more modernist makers that swing towards more oak, extraction and blue fruit. (91 pts.)
Round 2 - 2003 Cullen Wines Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
Some greenness but with sweet maraschino cherry fruit. Guessed late-90s Tuscan Bordeaux blend because of the sweetness and polish but this was still very much a restrained wine. Unlike the '96 that I tried previously, definitely will not be mistaken for a Bordeaux. Well-resolved and firmly in its drinking window. (92 pts.)
- 1985 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côte-Rôtie Les Jumelles - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
At least we managed to land on northern Rhone for this one - very similar to the old Guigals that I have opened so guessed 1991 Hermitage. Deep, smoky dark red fruit with some savoury bacon notes. In excellent shape for its age but lacked the extra gear of the Guigals of the same era. (92 pts.)
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