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 5/15/2009 (Alba Restaurant, London)
 

 

Pichon Baron has always struck me as having a very distinctive character, opulent, meaty and with a smoky coffee character to the fruit. These characteristics didn't come across this evening as obviously as I expected, though they were still there. Something I hadn't noticed before was the almost complete absence of cedar and blackcurrants.

The overall quality was very high, particularly the trio from '88, '89 and '90 where on the night I marginally preferred the '88, although all three are crackingly good. The '04 is stunning and I think the '00 will be. The '62 and '66 were excellent, way better than their reputations would suggest. I liked the '70 too, but seemed to be alone in this. The '53 didn't get much attention, but this was a lovely wine. And there were a lot of excellent second tier wines too - the '02, '01 and '98 all serious, substantial, harmonious wines.

 

  • 2004 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Bright fruit, spicy, rich, smooth but with lovely acidity and a light grip, and it went on and on and on - superb (93 pts.)
  • 2003 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Smelled big and hot, and on the palate there was a sugariness in the fruit, and a lot of tannin. Lacked definition after the '04. (89 pts.)
  • 2002 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    A hint of stalkiness on the nose, but this added freshness; rasping fruit and spice, excellent (91 pts.)
  • 2001 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Gamey, savoury, and with the charactistic PB coffee richness beginning to develop, round and very approachable now. (91 pts.)
  • 2000 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Reticent nose, substantial on the palate, clearly masses there but not really expressing itself today, the oak grew more prominent as the evening wore on (93 pts.)
  • 1986 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Dark, ripe, smooth (yes, smooth! no brutal '86 tannins here), a very pleasant, refined mid-weight mature claret (90 pts.)
  • 1970 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Enticing fresh nose, smoke, coffee, and on the palate a twist of citrus which lifted the gamey fruit. I was out of line with the rest of the party in really enjoying this. (91 pts.)
  • 1966 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Another spicy coffee nose, lovely fragrance, and fresh on the palate too with round tobaccoey fruit - beautiful mature wine (93 pts.)
  • 1953 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Gamey, some V/A, but a lovely mellow fragrance, surprisingly grippy for a '53. Still showing plenty of energy and very attractive (92 pts.)
  • 1967 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Oxidised, smelled of sewage, nasty (FLAWED)

The following three wines were served blind. The first was clearly richer than the first, and the third started off distinctly odd. Vintage prejudice led me to assume that the third wine was the '94 and that the richer of the other two must be the '96. So 0/3 for me. But even before the wines were revealed, the third wine was pulling itself together and it ended up my favourite of these three.

There are further notes and discussion on the UK wine-pages forum here.

 


 
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