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 Vintage1996 Label 1 of 20 
TypeWhite - Sparkling
ProducerBillecart-Salmon (web)
VarietyPinot Noir
Designationn/a
VineyardLe Clos Saint-Hilaire
CountryFrance
RegionChampagne
SubRegionn/a
AppellationChampagne

Drinking Windows and Values
Drinking window: Drink between 2010 and 2028 (based on 6 user opinions)
Wine Market Journal quarterly auction price: See Billecart Salmon Clos St. Hilaire on the Wine Market Journal.

Community Tasting History

Community Tasting Notes (average 94 pts. and median of 94 pts. in 75 notes) - hiding notes with no text

 Tasted by Elvis1969 on 5/4/2024 & rated 93 points: Mogen doft, honung på näsan, skönt söt beska, polkagris, choklad lång eftersmak. (61 views)
 Tasted by Juliansi on 5/1/2024 & rated 93 points: Right after everyone was surprised that my bubbles aperitif was a Blanc de Noir.. this showed up!

Bottle 2,920 of 6,500 ever produced. When most large makers are doing 1 to 2 million bottles of their NV bubbles, this makes the BS CSH very rare indeed.

This iconic Clos St-Hilaire from Billecart Salmon is an old-vine, single vineyard Blanc de Noirs or 100% Pinot Noir. 1996 is a well regarded and phenomenal vintage. Whilst delicate, there is such great balance and depth in this champagne especially with the honey and white pear notes.

Complex nose which was somewhat fleeting at times, bursting out with florality then slightly closed. I did get hints of mature red apple which to me is a tell-tale of this being Pinot dominant, or even all Pinot!

Minerals and flowers appear after you give this some time to evolve, there is a light textured mouthfeel with the finest of bubbles. Drink up, I feel that this is towards the back-end of its best drinking plateau.

The appearance is between clear gold and caramel-like deep gold, with a fine mousse that quickly dissipates. There is still a light tickle of fine bubbles on the palate.

Some element of oxidisation is clearly there, as are the yeast type brioche notes which seem to grow increasingly complex.

Very interestingly, a 2009 Robert Parker review describes:
Billecart-Salmon’s 1996 Le Clos Saint-Hilaire has lost some of its youthful exuberance and the fruit now is a touch softer than it was a few years ago. The aromatics and overall balance remain seductive and utterly compelling.

The Clos Saint-Hilaire is the most delicate, ethereal of the three, and this old-vine, single-vineyard Blanc de Noirs, is another of the more accessible 1996s.

I also loved this HK review from Finewineexperience.com, which describes the vintage really well.

I recall that when good 1996s began appearing on the market in the early 2000s, there was a lot of excitement for this vintage.

Richard Juhlin exclaimed in 2002 that 1996 was ‘Probably one of the great vintages of all time. Such acidity, allied to such high alcohol potential, had not been seen since 1928, which should guarantee an unusual longevity.’

1996 Champagnes reminded me a bit of Germany’s much-prized Eiswein style Rieslings .. What you get is a luminous, vibrant, crystal clear but super concentrated expression of Riesling and place, as all the water-ice is left in the wine press, and only the essence is vinified.

Summer had been mostly warm to hot, while critically the northerly winds blew (concentrating the sugars, but also the acidity), and September nights were cold, further ensuring acids didn’t drop too far.

Champagne writer Peter Liem describes the result, 1996 ‘was essentially unique—nobody had ever seen a vintage with the same combination of high ripeness and high acidity. Producers were thrilled with the extraordinary phenomenon of “10/10” (10 degrees of potential alcohol and 10 g./l. of acidity), which involved sugar levels comparable to those of 1989 and 1990 but also acidity levels of vintages such as 1986 or 1980.’

The north wind concentrated the acidity, the flavors, the sugars in the berries. But the pitfall of ’96 was that it concentrated the oxidative compounds in the bad grapes, and these have evolved very rapidly.

This is why some wines are not yet ready to drink, while others are already over the hill. This is also why there are not many rosés from ’96, because of this oxidation in the pinot noir.

Thanks for your immense generosity, brother LMC. What a massive bottle to kick-start our evening celebrating RN's birthday and a belated repeat get-together for DQ's as well. Wonderful dinner over 5 hours at Stoked.

Stoked, KL, Malaysia
1st May 2024 (54 views)
 Tasted by jshufelt on 12/31/2023 & rated 93 points: On the nose, fresh cut apples and sherry. In the glass, somewhere between clear gold and caramel, with mousse that disappears almost immediately in the glass, and very little in the way of bubbles, although the carbonation remains. On the palate, an interesting hybrid of citrus, green apple, and madeira - no question this is on the downward side of its aging curve, but it's interesting to capture the champagne at this stage, while there is still that last bit of life and energy. Time to drink up. Happy New Year! (339 views)
 Tasted by hargy on 12/3/2023 & rated 91 points: this was a dark yellow verging on oxidised on opening so fully mature, if not in decline - the mousse is all but gone with very gentle bubbles - still quite delicious with the breadiness in check (398 views)
 Tasted by Benoit Hardy on 8/6/2023 & rated 95 points: Massive nose, vinous, brioche with a touch of apricot.

Mouth of great maturity, with a frank attack with an extremely dense juice carried by a lively and integrated acidity. The wine is spicy, with roasted aromas, it is a perfect table companion because it responds perfectly to the dish. Aeration was beneficial to give it all its amplitude and structure with a second part on black fruits and an oxidative touch. Everything is perfectly integrated in this wine which loosens up intensely. Majestic finish on spices, on an important length.

Excellent, but to drink at the table to appreciate all its facets. (668 views)
 Tasted by jhngo on 12/17/2022 flawed bottle: Cooked (1012 views)
 Tasted by BradE on 11/7/2022: La Tache in Atlanta: Candy, cloying, sweet. Not my cup of tea. (1399 views)
 Tasted by shifter on 11/4/2022: La Tache and '96 Champagne (Atlanta): Cloying sweetness. Good on its own, which is great that we started with it. Hard to pair with food, but enjoyable to drink (1333 views)
 Tasted by bill00 on 1/9/2021 & rated 92 points: Typical '96 with really intense, ripe fruit and tons of acid. The parts are impressive and while it's not really disjointed it also doesn't fully come together in an integrated, harmonious way. Still quite good though. (2713 views)
 Tasted by Ltim BE on 12/27/2020 & rated 95 points: Brilliant showing today. At its peak, complex, mature, stunning complexity. A real treat. (2326 views)
 Tasted by fclarity on 11/22/2020 & rated 96 points: As usual, this sparkler comes out with rich, ripe fruit and an attractive mousse. The old vines character can seem a touch over-ripe at first. However, after about an hour of air this wine firms up and becomes a powerful mouthful of integrated fruit, acidity, and chalky mineral notes. The length is astounding!

When this wine is on, it is outstanding. If the storage conditions were less than ideal it can show a bit tired. While this wine will not get better with age, it is top notch right now! (2236 views)
 Tasted by WIBA on 10/10/2020 & rated 93 points: beautiful acidity and elegance. so clean. (2011 views)
 Tasted by fclarity on 7/25/2020 & rated 96 points: Clearly, there is some bottle variation with this wine. This bottle had a deep yellow center and clear rims. It had a solid mousse.

After an hour of air, this wine blossomed substantially. The medium+ nose showed lemon souffle, white stone, brioche, and just a hint of apricot.

This bottle showed absolutely none of the over-ripeness that the last couple bottles showed. It was rock solid, crisp, and very long.

This bottle would easily have lasted 5 years. Outstanding! (2390 views)
 Tasted by MC2 Wines on 7/10/2020: I'll say I like it, but when you factor in QPR, I'm not 100% sure. Now some of that is this was pretty tight and not really showing very much. We drank it over the course of a few hours and I let some sit in a glass for awhile hoping that it would give a bit more and it stayed more on the quiet side through the whole night which sometimes happens with PN and while the wine has age, I'd argue you could say 96's can still drink quite young. So perhaps that's what this was. But for the normal spicy and herbal and complex PN that I like it wasn't there and for the price tag I was hoping it would be. SO live and learn. (1160 views)
 Tasted by fclarity on 6/7/2020 & rated 95 points: This wine had a light gold center and an excellent mousse. The medium intensity nose offered up orchard fruit, lemons, brioche, and minerals.

I the mouth, this wine was clearly picked very ripe from old vines. It was rich with great acidity and a lovely mousse. These elements all supported each other well.

It was not as balanced as some champagne because of its extreme ripeness. I enjoyed it immensely but it may not be for everybody. In any event, this wine is not getting better so drink up. (1302 views)
 Tasted by fclarity on 5/24/2020 & rated 95 points: Again a bottle that tasted different but again, pretty spectacular. This wine has a medium yellow center with a nice mousse. The medium intensity nose focused on white minerals, brioche, lemon, and some dried fruit.

In the mouth, this wine was nice at first but certainly improved with air. It did not show the super-ripeness of the last bottle nor the blazing acidity of the first bottle. It was complex and gorgeously balanced with excellent length.

This bottle was comfortably in the zone with about 30-60 minutes of air. I would have like to have seen a bit more acidity to merit a higher score. But even without this my score was verging on 96. (1295 views)
 Tasted by Jammy Wine on 5/14/2020 & rated 92 points: Le Clos Saint Hilaire is Billecart Salmon’s cuvée prestige. A 1 hectare vineyard in Mareuil-Sur-Ay, 100% Pinot Noir. Tasted blind - Impressive ripeness and body. Bright orchard fruits, apricot and ripe red berries of Pinot Noir fruits. Full bodied with great acidity and ripeness. Maturing fruits and slight savoury note reminds me of a ripe vintage champagne from the 90s. Good tension. Clos de Goisses? 1996? (92/100) (1778 views)
 Tasted by Markus IWC on 2/21/2020 & rated 94 points: Alex Billecart tasting wine #5:

Dark golden, slightly red tone.

Fresh nose with red berries, chocolate, mint, tropcial fruit (litchi), mature peach and floral nortes. Developed and complex.

Round and smooth on the palate, red berries, nice fruit, high acidity, nice balance, deep, complex, long finish. 94p

BV 3
WV 2 (1299 views)
 Tasted by Elvis1969 on 2/21/2020 & rated 93 points: Honung på näsan, kolapaj, pigg mousse, kraftig, bred i munnen, torr. Häftigt vin! (1400 views)
 Tasted by fclarity on 12/14/2019 & rated 95 points: This bottle was from a different source than the last bottle. This wine had a deep yellow/gold center and a lovely mousse. The nose was light at fist but grew dramatically with an hour of air.

In the mouth, this wine was somewhat over-ripe/oxidized with some length. After an hour the wine became fresher with crisp acidity and huge length.

This Champagne has old vine intensity and certainly needed air to show well. A special wine. (1406 views)
 Tasted by hprphf on 12/6/2019 & rated 94 points: Zachy's BYO 2019: Really nice Champagne, crispy clean acidity, deep structure and great balance. Holds up after a night of great wines. 94 (1594 views)
 Tasted by Argrath on 10/11/2019 & rated 96 points: (Blind tasting)
Full, rich, complex and developed nose. Fully ready. Both fruity and flowery with nice tertiary mushroom notes. Nuanced apple, spice and liquorice depths.
Full, and properly austere palate. Very dry. Mature. Very good grip and very high acidity. Grape fruit, spice and chocolate. After time in glass, some hints of sherry.
I tasted this in 2012 and thought it shy then. It certainly had opened up. This is splendid now, but I think the fruit will reside and all that will be left behind is the 1996-acidity and mature mushroom/sherry notes. (839 views)
 Tasted by dream on 6/12/2019 & rated 94 points: Slightly oxidized flavors but still fresh with strong acidity and fizz. Excellent intensity with flavors of brioche, citrus and mint which lead to a very complex finish with notes of copper minerals and exotic spices. Delicious champagne at the height of its powers. (1707 views)
 Tasted by jshufelt on 12/31/2018 & rated 92 points: Compared to the bottle we had three years ago, this was quite a bit more evolved - still dominated by apples, but now noticeable notes of aging/oxidation are in the mix. Could just be bottle variation. (1816 views)
 Tasted by MikeATL on 8/4/2018 & rated 92 points: A little caramel and nuttiness, apple, bracing acidity on the back. (1849 views)
 Only displaying the 25 most recent notes - click to see all notes for this wine...

Professional 'Channels'
By Simon Field MW
Decanter, Le Clos Saint-Hilaire (10/27/2021)
(Billecart-Salmon, Le Clos Saint-Hilaire, Pinot Noir / Pinot Nero, Champagne, France, White) Subscribe to see review text.
By Alistair Cooper MW
JancisRobinson.com (10/27/2021)
(Billecart-Salmon, Le Clos St-Hilaire Brut Champagne White) Subscribe to see review text.
By Antonio Galloni
Vinous, 1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014) (10/1/2014)
(Billecart-salmon Le Clos Saint-hilaire) Subscribe to see review text.
By Antonio Galloni
Vinous, Checking in on the 1996 Champagnes (Sep 2010)
(Billecart-salmon Le Clos Saint-hilaire) Subscribe to see review text.
By Brad Baker
Champagne Warrior, February 2010, Issue #5, Tasting Notes/Wine Reviews
(Billecart-Salmon Clos Saint-Hillaire) Login and sign up and see review text.
By John Kapon
Vintage Tastings, Happy Birthday Don (1/23/2009)
(Billecart Salmon Clos St. Hilaire) Login and sign up and see review text.
By Brad Baker
Champagne Warrior, January 2009, Issue #1, The Top 50 Champagnes of 1996
(Billecart-Salmon Clos Saint Hilaire) Login and sign up and see review text.
By Antonio Galloni
Vinous, The 1996 Champagnes Revisited (Jan 2009)
(Billecart-salmon Clos Saint-hilaire) Subscribe to see review text.
By Antonio Galloni
Vinous, New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2008)
(Billecart-salmon Clos Saint-hilaire) Subscribe to see review text.
By John Kapon
Vintage Tastings, New Year's Eve 2007 (1/2/2008)
(Billecart Salmon Clos St. Hilaire) Login and sign up and see review text.
By Peter Liem
ChampagneGuide.net
(Billecart-Salmon Clos Saint-Hilaire Brut) Subscribe to see review text.
NOTE: Scores and reviews are the property of Decanter and JancisRobinson.com and Vinous and Champagne Warrior and Vintage Tastings and ChampagneGuide.net. (manage subscription channels)

CellarTracker Wiki Articles (login to edit | view all articles)

Billecart-Salmon

Producer website

Pinot Noir

Varietal character (Appellation America) | Varietal article (Wikipedia)
Pinot Noir is the Noble red grape of Burgundy, capable of ripening in a cooler climate, which Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot will not reliably do. It is unpredictable and difficult both to grow and to vinify, but results in some of the finest reds in the world. It is believed to have been selected from wild vines two thousand years ago. It is also used in the production of champagne. In fact, more Pinot Noir goes into Champagne than is used in all of the Cote d'Or! It is also grown in Alsace, Jura, Germany, the U.S., Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Romania, Switzerland, Austria, Croatia, Serbia, Italy, and so forth, with varying degrees of success.


Pinot Noir is one of the world's most prestigious grapes. It is very difficult to grow and thrives well in France, especially in Champagne and Burgundy. Pinot Noir thrives less in hot areas, is picky on soil, and deserves some oak storage.

Pinot Noir, or Blauburgunder / Spätburgunder in German, is a blue grapevine - and, as the German name suggests, the grape comes originally from Burgundy in France.

The grape, which thrives in calcareous soils, is used primarily for the production of red wine, and it is widely regarded as producing some of the best wines in the world. The wine style is often medium-bodied with high fruit acidity and soft tannins. It can be quite peculiar in fragrance and taste, and not least in structure - which may be why it is referred to as "The Grapes Ballerina".
Pinot Noir is also an important ingredient in sparkling wines, not least in champagne since it is fruity, has good acidity and contains relatively little tannins.
The grape is considered quite demanding to grow. The class itself consists of tightly packed grapes, which makes it more sensitive to rot and other diseases.

Pinot Noir changes quite easily and is genetically unstable. It buds and matures early which results in it often being well ripened. Climate is important for this type of grape. It likes best in cool climates - in warm climates the wines can be relaxed and slightly pickled.
In cooler climates, the wine can get a hint of cabbage and wet leaves, while in slightly warmer regions we often find notes of red berries (cherries, strawberries, raspberries, currants), roses and slightly green notes when the wine is young. With age, more complex aromas of forest floor, fungi and meat emerge.

In Germany, Switzerland, Austria and Hungary, it often produces light wines with less character. However, it has produced very good results in California, Oregon and New Zealand.

With its soft tannins and delicate aroma, it is excellent for white fish, chicken and light meat. For the stored wines you can serve small game. Classic duck breast is a matter of course, a Boeuf Burgundy and Pinot Noir are pure happiness.

Pinot Noir loses quality by over-harvesting.
Pinot Noir is prone to diseases, especially rot and mildew. Viruses cause major problems especially in Burgundy.
Pinot Noir are large round grapes with thin skins. Relatively high in alcohol content. Medium rich tannins and good with acid.
As a young person, Pinot Noir has a distinctly fruity character such as raspberries, cherries and strawberries.
A mature Pinot Noir, the taste is different. Cherry goes into plum and prune flavors. It smells of rotten leaves, coffee, moist forest floor and animal wine. This must be experienced.
In warm climates you find boiled plum, some rustic, little acid.
If the grapes are over-grown, the wine will be thin, with little color and flavor.

France

Vins de France (Office National Interprofessionnel des Vins ) | Pages Vins, Directory of French Winegrowers | French Wine (Wikipedia)

Wine Scholar Guild vintage ratings

2018 vintage: "marked by a wet spring, a superb summer and a good harvest"
2019 vintage reports
2021: "From a general standpoint, whether for white, rosé or red wines, 2021 is a year marked by quality in the Rhône Valley Vineyards. Structured, elegant, fresh and fruity will be the main keywords for this new vintage."
2022 harvest: idealwine.info | wine-searcher.com

Champagne

Le Champagne (Le comité interprofessionnel du vin de Champagne) | Grandes Marques & Maisons de Champagne (Union des Maisons de Champagne)

France - When it comes to wine, France stands alone. No other country can beat it in terms of consistent quality and diversity. And while many of its Region, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne most obviously, produce wine as rare, as sought-after and nearly as expensive as gold, there are just as many obscurities and values to be had from little known appellations throughout the country. To learn everything there is to know about French wine would take a lifetime. To understand and appreciate French wine, one only has to begin tasting them. Click for a list of bestselling items from all of France.
Sub-Region:

Champagne - The French region of Champagne (including the cities of Rheims, Épernay, and Aÿ) was the first region in the world to make sparkling wine in any quantity. Today, the name of the region is synonymous with the finest of all sparkling wines, and wine-making traditions of Champagne have become role models for sparkling wine producers, worldwide. Surprisingly, the region of Champagne is now responsible for only one bottle in 12 of all sparkling wine produced. Styles of champagne range in sweetness ranging from an extra brut or brut 0, to the basic brut to demi sec to doux; some houses produce single vintage champagnes and others produce non-vintage (or incorporate wines/grapes of multiple vintages), often to preserve a specific taste; combinations of grape varietals; and colors, including a rosé. There are several sub-appellations, including the Valley of the Marnes river running from Épernay west, Massif de Saint-Thierry north and west of Rheims, Valley of the Ardre, the Mountains of Rheims (between Rheims and Épernay), Côte des Blancs, Côte de Sézanne, and Côte des Bar in the South. Champagne wine only uses three grape varietals (cépages): Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier.

Champagne

The vineyards of Champagne on weinlagen-info

 
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