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Giaconda Tasting Notes
The vineyard was established by Rick Kinzbrunner, a mechanical engineer who became interested in wine in the early 1970's and spent the next ten years traveling to wine-growing areas overseas learning as much as possible. After a brief stint in New Zealand he studied at Davis University in California and worked at some of the most respected wineries in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, namely Stag's Leap, Simi and Matanzas Creek. In Europe he worked a 'stage' with the Moueix group, co-owner of the fabled Chateau Petrus.
After returning to Australia in 1980 to take up a position as assistant winemaker at Brown Brothers Milawa he purchased land near the old Everton Hills Vineyard, and in 1982 commenced planting the classic varieties Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and a small amount of Pinot Noir which was followed in 1986 by another acre. In the last five years further plantings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay have occurred, with a small amount of Roussanne. Total area under vines in the original vineyard is now 3ha. Recent plantings have added a further 3ha.
At an altitude of 400 metres (1330 feet) the site, which is a south facing slope so that the vines do not receive the direct impact of the sun's rays, is relatively cool. It is in a small valley which benefits from a light breeze much of� the time; useful in controlling disease.
The soil is a granitic loam over decomposed gravel and clay. The clay is important allowing sustained water-release to the vine roots; while the soil, being not too rich, is ideal for wine quality as yields are naturally regulated; approximate harvest being limited to two tonnes per acre. The vines are drip irrigated in some years only when necessary to prevent stress.
Average rainfall is 700 mm, a little of which can be received during summer. Nights are generally cool with days being fairly warm, providing ideal ripening conditions. Vintage occurs between mid-March and mid-April depending on the season; all grapes are hand picked in the cool of the early morning.
The winery overlooks the vineyard and is constructed of local granite blocks and hand-made bricks. The wines are hand-crafted; in the case of the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir using traditional Burgundian methods, and the Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc according to classical Bordeaux techniques including long maceration. Only top quality French oak is employed.
The first release of Giaconda wines was in 1987 with the 1986 Chardonnay and the 1985 Cabernet blend. Total production has been around 1000 dozen. This will now increase due to the recent plantings to approximately 2000 - 2500 dozen. The wines have been keenly received by winemakers, retailers and enthusiasts alike. The wine press has accorded them many accolades and placed them at or near the top in a number of masked tastings.
OUR LOCATION
Giaconda Vineyard and Winery is situated nine kilometers southwest of Beechworth on the Wangaratta Road in Northeastern Victoria, in the foothills and within sight of the Victorian Alps.
Nantua is the second label of Beechworth winery Giaconda.
Wine making
Wine making should be subtle and always seek balance - this should never seek to dominate the Terroir or characteristics of any given vintage. Giaconda wines are hand-crafted according to basically a natural wine making process. To us this means indigenous yeasts are employed for fermentation, natural bacteria for Malolactic fermentation, French oak barrel ageing, minimal sulphur additions, and no filtration before bottling.
The winery, barrel maturation cave and bottling facility are all set up for gravity flow. This means the wines are very rarely pumped or manipulated mechanically. Instead they are gently moved by gravity or gas pressure during the entire wine making process.
In the case of Chardonnay, our fruit is hand picked, lightly crushed and then basket pressed - before being transferred to French oak barrels (approximately 30% new) for fermentation and ageing.
For the red wines, a combination of whole bunch and de-stemmed crushed fruit is transferred to large concrete tanks for fermentation. These wines remain on skins for an extended period to develop softer, finer tannins and more complexity; before being basket pressed and transferred to French oak barrels (up to 40% new in some cases) for ageing.
Our wines are aged in French oak for almost two years - deep underground in the granite maturation cave, which can be seen below. This cave offers optimal conditions for fermentation and ageing with a stable temperature of 16 degrees centigrade and naturally high humidity all year round.Giaconda Chardonnay Estate Vineyard Giaconda Tasting Notes
1999 CHARDONNAY
A perfect growing season and vintage has provided a wine of significant depth. The 1999 Chardonnay continues the theme established by the 1996, and in our opinion, surpasses it both in terms of intensity and complexity. In a glass, the wine looks rich and enticing. The vibrant glow of white gold and green suggests richness. Hazelnuts, oatmeal, fig and white peach meld with the oak and "dirt" to provide an intoxicating aroma. Creamy and intense with lingering spicy oak, the core flavours of white peach and oatmeal build and build on the palate. As is the custom, the oak character is perceptible at this stage, however the sheer explosive intensity of the wine will in time ensure complete harmony.
2000 CHARDONNAY
Straw gold and brilliant flashes of green. Exotic, stunning and hedonistic elements rise from the glass; meal, hazelnuts, �dirt�, white peach and nectarine brushed with delicious spicy, savoury oak. Take your time and allow your olfactory senses to indulge in this unbelievably complex aromatic elixir.
A texturally rich entry that melts like warm butter cream in the mouth. Stone fruits, meal, roasted nuts flit in and out with a myriad of other flavours that words simply cannot do justice to. Concentrated, powerful but neither heavy nor cloying. Oak is judged to perfection and the taut spine of acid and mineral notes teases the flavours to the back of the palate.
2001 CHARDONNAY
The 2001 has all the hallmarks of another fine Giaconda Chardonnay. Year in year out the consistency of this wine continues to amaze me. Once again the craftsmanship of Rick Kinzbrunner is clearly evident. It looks and smells like a wine of depth and complexity: straw gold with flashes of green; on the bouquet grilled nuts, the customary 'dirt', stone fruit, wheat and spicy notes from the oak herald a wine of breeding.
The palate is certainly grand with intensity and power encased in a tight frame of acidity. Lingering mineral notes remind me of the 1992 Chardonnay. Oak plays a supporting role but the sheer depth of fruit swarms all over the oak. As with past vintages, the palate is a combination of wheat, spice and stonefruits wrapped in a creamy texture. The synergy between vineyard and the maker is clearly evident. Another superb Giaconda Chardonnay.
2002 CHARDONNAY
Mature vines, many now 20 years old, a stellar vintage and even more focused wine making have conspired to produce the most compelling Giaconda chardonnay to date. The 2002 vintage conditions produced grapes with intense flavours and extraordinarily balanced acidity.
Straw gold with a strong green tinge - plenty of depth in the colour.
Evolving complexity with a rollercoaster of aromas: grapefruit, nectarine, initially cashews and as it opens, meal, hazelnuts, spicy oak notes and a tincture of Giaconda funky dirt rising through the fruit. The more you explore the bouquet the more that is revealed and the harder it is to describe.
Amazing concentration is the first impression, rich, tight and long. The palate is creamy textured and the myriad of complex flavours are precisely layered to maintain fluency. Tingling acidity and spicy oak notes provide the pillars that support the powerful grapefruit and nectarine fruit. The wild funky notes are discretely hiding in the background.
As for the future, the 2002 chardonnay will stride past 10 years without raising a single bead of sweat.
When I first scribbled my notes I simply wrote: In keeping with the bouquet, too powerful, too complex and too interwoven to pull apart and describe. Perhaps it's best left to the imagination and senses of those who love Giaconda chardonnay to tell their own story.
2004 CHARDONNAY
Racy yet very textural. Powerful nose with an interesting combination of fruit and mineral whilst the palate has extreme impact and focus. Signature Giaconda flavours of meal and hazelnut, great length and balance. This is all about concentration with great finesse. Don't miss this as it should turn out to be a real classic.
2005 CHARDONNAY
A great follow on to '04, extremely lifted nose with powerful fruit balancing the mineral and meal characters. A classically rich palate, has great focus with the minerality keeping the wine fine and drawing it out. This should develop into one of our great chardonnays as the '05 vintage produced fruit of extraordinary quality. In fact I haven't felt as confident about the chardonnay since the 1996.
2006 ESTATE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY
The nose is typically Giaconda, minerals, meal, hazelnuts and matchstick with underlying aromatic fruit lift. The power in the nose follows through to the palate, showing richness and complexity, moving to an intense texture and lingering minerality on the finish. This is in the powerful end of the spectrum, although it still retains a tight racy backbone.
2007 ESTATE & NANTUA VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY
This is the only white wine that will be released from the 2007 vintage. Due to the limited quantities produced we have decided to blend the Chardonnay from the Estate Vineyard and Nantua Vineyard together with the Aeolia (Roussanne). It is 89% Chardonnay and 11% Roussanne
Interesting aromas of meal, melon and matchstick with underlying hints of jasmine from the small Roussanne component. Generous fruit on the palate, however still tight with a backbone of minerality and balancing acidity. Long stylish finish with the ability to develop complexity in the classic Giaconda style. (Bottled with screwcap closures).
2008 ESTATE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY
The nose has typical Giaconda characters � hints of meal; matchstick and minerals with overtones of toasty oak. The 2008 while slightly more refined and elegant (due to earlier picking in cooler conditions) combines all the best aspects of the 04; 05 and 06 vintages and still maintains the length and power on the finish which is a Giaconda hallmark. This could be the most refined Giaconda Chardonnay for years, but still embodies the usual drive and power..
Recent Release Tasting Notes
Giaconda Estate Vineyard Chardonnay
The next release, 2012 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay, will be available for purchase through this website from 1st November 2013.
Our Estate Vineyard Chardonnay is planted on the cooler south facing exposure. The wine is fully barrel fermented with approximately 30% new French oak and allowed to go through Malolactic fermentation, which adds more complexity and structure. This wine is aged in barrel for 22 months, deep underground in our granite maturation cave.
2012 Barrel Tasting notes: A further example of power and concentration. This wine is developing excellent depth and complexity. The nose is showing usual characters of matchstick and meal with funky classic Chardonnay peach fruit. The palate is balanced, with good richness, acidity and persistence. Slightly richer than the 2010 & 11 at this stage. With further barrel maturation this wine should realise its potential to become a future classic - following on from the success of recent vintages.
2011 Tasting notes: Once again, recent tastings have have exceeded my expectations. A signature nose of matchstick and meal with powerful underlying minerality. Like 2010 this wine reflects many characters from some of best vintages of the 90s. A very powerful palate, tight and racy. Wonderfully subtle fruit, well integrated with complex secondary characters, fine acidity and great length. This wine will develop into a real classic, quite in the style of traditional Burgundy. This wine will have great longevity - especially under screwcap closure.
There has been some discussion in the wine press recently regarding 'what is true minerality.' This wine should help those who taste it understand!
2010 Tasting notes: Our first Chardonnay completely fermented and aged underground in our cave. This means a slower and more even ageing process, combined with the cooler season this has resulted in a wine with very long ageing potential. The wine has a signature nose of matchstick and meal with powerful underlying minerality. While similar in style to 2008 this wine is a little more racy with slightly less oak showing at this stage. The palate is highly refined and harks back to some of our best vintages from the 90s. The fruit is powerful but very well integrated with the other components.
2008 Tasting notes: The nose has typical Giaconda characters with hints of meal; matchstick and minerals with overtones of toasty oak. The 2008 while slightly more refined and elegant (due to earlier picking in cooler conditions) combines all the best aspects of the 04; 05 and 06 vintages and still maintains the length and power on the finish which is a Giaconda hallmark. This could be the most refined Giaconda Chardonnay for years, but still embodies the usual drive and power.
Variety: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Cork or screwcap
Cellaring: 5-15 years aging potential
Availability: Web sales open 1st November 2013Chardonnay The Chardonnay GrapeEstate VineyardFrom the Producer:
Coury Clone Block: In the spring of 2000 we took over the farming of what is now our Estate Vineyard from Autumn Wind Winery and Vineyard. Even though the purchase of the property and business would not occur until later that year we were entrusted with running the operation as if it were our own already. The vineyard was only around 22 acres at the time with a good deal of plantable land available. There were also areas that needed to be addressed. This block was one of those. This was originally planted in 1985. It is on a very steep facing at the apex of the vineyard’s hillside. The terraces that had been built to account for the hill’s grade were collapsing making tractor work hazardous. On top of that years of soil neglect had created an extremely untenable growing environment for the plants. We decided to tear this section out and start again. At this juncture Dijon clones were quite fashionable (not they are not now, just more so in an outsized sort of way back then) and since the vineyard was solely Pommard and Wadensvil we decided to plant Dijon 777. The decision never panned out. Despite having the Etzel Block to its west, the Wadensvil Block to the north and the Hallelujah Block (the largest portion of the Estate Old Vine) this block never produced wine anywhere near the quality of its neighbors. For 15+ years we saw harvests produce wines that usually were scheduled for our Willamette Valley bottling rather than something more unique and individual. While clonal makeup is not the defining character of terroir it is an aspect and in this case, we felt that aspect was holding things back. In the spring of 2019, we traded some vineyard management expertise for cuttings off our block of Coury Clone at Freedom Hill Vineyard. Given our success there and at Hyland Vineyard with this unique, Oregon-based clone we felt like we could maximize the setting. In one vintage, not counting the smoke taint-befouled 2020 vintage, we found that we were proven correct. More good things to come from this interesting part of our Estate!
Farming Practices: We have done the management of this property internally since we purchased it in 2000 with the exception of 2014 and 2015 when Sterling Fox’s management service did the work. Also, at that time, the vineyard was switched entirely to organic farming practices and remains so to this day. The vineyard has always been dry farmed.Australia Wine Australia (Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation) | Australian Wines (Wikipedia)Victoria Wines of Victoria (Victorian Wine Industry Association) |
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