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Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert

"Domaine de Thalabert" is a brand name often misunderstood to be a specific vineyard; for example Robert Parker communicated that misunderstanding in his book. There is no lieu dit or vineyard or business called (Domaine de) Thalabert. The Jaboulets did not seem to mind this misunderstanding.

To the extent the wine has been based on a single vineyard, then for the last 50 years or so that vineyard was Les Grandes Vignes. It is a difficult vineyard, noted for its large "galets roulés" boulders. Jonathan Livingstone-Learmonth on Drink Rhone suggests that back in the 50s to 70s, wine labelled as Thalabert had a different source.

Up into the 1990s, Thalabert was the benchmark for Crozes-Hermitage. It could be a match for all but the best Hermitage, especially in its greatest years such as 1978 and 1990. But the house of Paul Jaboulet Aîné began to lose its way as the 1990s progressed, as Gérard Jaboulet retreated from managing the winemaking.

The rot had set in, and the only way to solve it was to sell up. The house of Paul Jaboulet Aîné was sold to the Frey family in 2006, owners of a portfolio including Chateau La Lagune. The sale covered the business, the winery and brand names, but did not include all of the family's vineyard holdings. The Jaboulet family kept a large part of Les Grandes Vignes, which seems to have been particularly personal to the family. They also kept some vineyards on the Hermitage hill and in Cornas.

Thalabert is no longer the most prestigious even of Paul Jaboulet Aîné's own Crozes-Hermitage bottlings. The quantity of Thalabert still available suggests that it may not be sourced entirely from Les Grandes Vignes. The situation is perhaps not transparent. But it reinforces that we should understand Thalabert as a brand, not necessarily a specific vineyard.

Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet, keeping the family winemaking tradition going, have the other part of Les Grandes Vignes. No longer able to use the old names, they market their single vineyard wine from it under the brand name Nouvelere, which means "New Era". It has not so far attained the reputation of Thalabert.

A reliable and fully documented history of the family and the vineyard is not available. The date 1834 is often mentioned in this context. But this is merely the earliest date at which there is a mention of Antoine Jaboulet as a winemaker in the local administrative records. The formal incorporation of the house of Paul Jaboulet Aîné came rather later in the 19th century. Nor is it clear Les Grandes Vignes goes back that far. On their website, Philippe and Vincent Jaboulet claim only that the vineyard has been in the family for three generations, ie from mid 20th century, not back to the 19th century.
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The first ever vineyard owned by Paul Jaboulet – purchased in 1834. Also holds the distinction as the oldest vineyard of the appellation. Considered the benchmark for Crozes-Hermitages with the ability to age for decades.
60-80 year old vines

Biodynamically farmed

Vines grown on pebbly terraces that are glacial in origin, with the bedrock close to the topsoil. These small, round pebbles store heat during the day and release it at night, providing optimum and regular maturity.
Very low yields of 25 hl/ha

Aged in French oak, 20% new

Last edited on 2/12/2021 by Echinosum

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