Community Tasting Note
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csimm wrote: 96 points
February 5, 2023 - Aromas of leather, crushed dried roses, macerated red cherries, and alcohol peek through an otherwise muted nose, signaling a reticent Barolo that is wondering who in God’s name set the alarm clock ten years too early?! Tight on the palate, with some sleep inertia reluctantly keeping the flavors from expanding. Sandalwood, plum, tobacco, leather, and bitter spice hop-scotch across the palate, skipping most of the mid-palate, and clenching up on a tart and slightly warm finish.
Oxygen is the hot cup of coffee this wine needs to rouse its spirits. Initially with a cantankerous 4-year-old “I don’t wannnnnnaaa get up for breakfast” protest, depth and complexity slowly, begrudgingly, make their appearances from under the covers. Fuzzy cedar-inflected tannins become more refined with air. Sherry-drenched cherries and unsmoked cigar make for an old-world charm, coupled with leather and river rock notes.
And just when you think it is about to give up the goods and unfold into a wave of flavor-generosity, it… doesn’t. So, that’s about as far as it gets, which is perhaps further than I had anticipated. Sure, it needs a decade or two to get to work and promote to VP of grandeur, but it’s a prodigy primed for splendor down the road. A very eligible bachelor type of wine that checks the boxes. Mom would be proud.
Hold until 2035. Or, just pony-up son and open it now with a super fat decant and enjoy it for some of its already-supercool suave James Bond posing (think Sean Connery in Dr. No, with his signature Walther PPK in one hand and a martini in the other… and Sylvia Trench in the other)…. Will he be able to stop the radio beam weapon from destroying mankind…?!
96+ points.5 people found this helpful 4,425 views
10 Comments
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PIZZAandBAROLO commented:
2/5/23, 7:45 PM - Heee's Baaaccckk! And he's commenting on a Conterno Barolo?!? Whoa. Whaaat?!? My seatbelt's on. Ready for the ride...
I appreciated the notes on this wine in particular as I just popped an '11 from Magnum a few weeks ago. I loved it. As did my esteemed guests.
Of course we had some some killer wood fired pizza to pair...
I gave it a few hour decant and it cruised through the 6hr + affair. Never wavering but expanding gradually on the nose and palate some.
But this was a 12yr old. I could imagine, as you noted, this should be left to lay sideways for a good while longer.
Although I'd probably find myself in the 'fck it, I'll long decant, and coax, and back slap the hell out of this wine until it gives me what I want' camp lol
Anyway, I hope all has been well. Always fun to read you :) -
csimm commented:
2/5/23, 9:20 PM - PIZZA! When it comes to Italy, I’m usually shooting without a front sight. When it comes to Barolo specifically, I hardly even know which side is the barrel and which side is the stock. I do know that this wine has a bright future ahead of it. I figured I was at least 5+ years too early here (likely a decade premature really), but I had to see what all the fuss was about. My score and musings are probably more conservative than they should be, but since I’m wading through somewhat unfamiliar territory here, I didn’t want to gush too much. This is the kind of gateway wine that will get me in to some good trouble.
A friend opened a ‘69 Giacosa the other day and it was an eye-opener for me. A fun rabbit hole to explore further for sure!
Hope you are well my friend!! -
sfwinelover1 commented:
2/6/23, 12:21 PM - Who knows what other gems you have in that cellar of yours? The mind reels . . .
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csimm commented:
2/6/23, 1:35 PM - Well, I gotta keep from being too typecasted here. What would a cellar be without a few gem Barolos and some grossly overpriced red Burgs to balance out the rest of my stash....?!
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sfwinelover1 commented:
2/6/23, 1:51 PM - I’ve not had that cuvee, nor anything else from that producer, although I have little doubt it’s amazing (although for my palate, probably a lot more amazing in 2035:) ). I have had Barolos from Bartolo Mascarello, Giacosa and Voerzio; none have been less than outstanding. But it won’t surprise you that when it comes to buying, my go-tos have been Sandrone, Vajra and Scavino, which for those producers’ better bottlings in decent vintages, are likewise consistently excellent. Is the first group so much better to justify the 3-5x premium over the second? Well, then we’re back to our LB discussion.
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csimm commented:
2/6/23, 5:40 PM - sf - you and PIZZA are far more schooled in Italy than I will likely ever be. I’ve been eyeing Sandrone as a less expensive option, but am not sure stylistically if it’ll fit what I’m looking for (not that I know what I’m looking for or that I am even looking to beef up in Barolo necessarily in the cellar at the moment). Top shelf Conterno and Giacosa don’t come cheap, that’s for sure.
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PIZZAandBAROLO commented:
2/6/23, 5:48 PM - Ahhh the Barolo rabbit hole... It seems you're heading in the right direction. Although another very expensive one ;)
I started in the '90's w Gaja wines. The '82 Sori Tilden & '89 Sori San Lorenzo were some of my 1st. And who knew to pair exquisite & expensive Jesus juice with America's favorite food. Pizza! Lol
Needless to say, these wines are pricey but like SF said there are some great Barolo where prices aren't in the stratosphere.
GD Vajra & Cavallotto come to mind. Sandrone is top tier but prices have kept creeping up the last 10 years. But fret not, plenty of great Barbaresco's too.
Actually drinking a 2018 Giuseppe Cortese Rabaja as I type now (popped the cork yesterday. Def need to slow ox) So long, focused, and juicy! A steal at $45 bucks. Best wishes to you and your Amex card on your journey lol. Cheers! -
sfwinelover1 commented:
2/6/23, 6:15 PM - I’m not sure I know what you’re looking for, so it’s hard to recommend. IMO, Sandrone, Vajra and Scavino all skew modern (with Vajra probably the most traditional); it’s hard to know since with BDX varietals, I perceive your taste to be more modern, with Burgundies, more Old World. I generally like Barolo over Barbaresco, but some of the latter can be worth checking out for sure, as well as other nebbiolos like Gattinaras. My barolo knowledge is decent, but almost certainly lags my knowledge of Amarones, and even more so, BdMs and IGTs. Always happy to share and evangelize about the Land of the Boot!
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csimm commented:
2/6/23, 9:53 PM - Thanks for the homework gentlemen. I’m gonna continue to do a little more interwebbing and see what pops up. Rabbit hole indeed. Stupid hobby… :)
Oh, and pizza is a quest unto itself. Like wine, my favorite food hands down is any version of wood fire pizza with a killer bottle of wine. I’m ready for my second dinner now!! -
PIZZAandBAROLO commented:
2/7/23, 5:22 AM - Your words fill my heart with joy... :)