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A tale of two walks: Ladoix and Savigny

Côte de Beaune, France

Tasted July 18, 2010 by gharbour with 1,053 views

Introduction

This is a review of the annual Gastronomic walks in Ladoix (Balade Gourmande) and Savigny-les-Beaune (Savigny en Tous Sens). These two neighboring villages just to the north of Beaune have annual “Balades Gourmandes” or walks of about 5 kms through the vineyards with 7-8 stops to taste local wines accompanied by food of the region. Both walks end with a party including a band, food, wine, and dancing. The Savigny walk always has a sit-down dinner with a 3 course meal of Boeuf Bourguignon (Beef Burgundy) and potatoes, followed by an Assiette de Fromage, and a Tarte de Fruits with Coffee. Both walks take place in July (Ladoix July 7, 2010 and Savigny July 18, 2010), because this is a slow period in the annual cycle of the grower/wine maker, and are promotions of the villages. The biggest difference is the Ladoix walk has 3,000 participants verses only 300 for Savigny. The Savigny walk is much smaller because of the logistics of the sit-down dinner. Both walks require a ticket (45 Euros) which should be purchased long before the events. By the way, if you are interested in Balades here is a link to a web page that lists dozens of balades across Europe each year http://www.baladesgourmandes.com/.

I will give you more information about the Savigny walk because; 1) it was more recent, 2) the booklet is a better record and I have better notes, 3) I like it better. The Savigny walk is a smaller more serious tasting experience and the Ladoix walk is more of a giant party in the vineyards. Maybe the amount of alcohol I drank on the Ladoix walk inhibited my memory a little!

For the walk, Ladoix gives you a useful straw hat and a neck bag for your cutlery and Savigny a napsack and a small bread. In both you get a tasting glass and a listing of the wines for the walk. This year for the first time Savigny did the tasting blind. There was a book to record your notes and only at the end of the walk were you given the "étiquette" (label) to place in your book which revealed the identity of the wines.

Both walks start with a greeting station. Savigny has coffee and chocolate Ladoix has a Kir of Aligote and Cassis and a small band to get the party rocking - after a few favorite French party songs, off you go.

The next stop is for Aligote (the lesser white grape of Burgundy). There were 5 Aligotes in the Savigny walk. Savigny served a small egg & lardon (bacon) tarte. In the flight notes I will list the wines our party rated as tops in each category.

With the blind tasting in the Savigny walk we expected to be able to identify the wine makes based on which wines they were serving. But at the traditional second stop where the White Burgundies (Chardonnay) were served we saw M & Mme Pavelot and they were not serving their wines but other producers, so the wine makers of the village were really in to this little experiment. There were 10 White Burgundies in the Savigny walk and a somewhat smaller number at Ladoix. The Savigny walk served a Salmon mousse and Jambon Persillé (parsley ham).

In the Savigny walk there is a unique stop to taste fresh chardonnay grape juice made by one of the leading village wine makers, M. Bize.

The next stop is the village red wines. In the Savigny walk there were 8 village reds. Ladoix has a somewhat smaller number. In the both walks this was served with a plate of charcuterie (cold cuts).

Up next were the Premier Cru wines. The Ladoix walk served a few Grand Cru wines from Corton. Savigny in fact has no Grand Cru but has more Premier Cru than any other village. Savigny had an amazing 16 Premier Cru wines from 16 different Premier Cru vineyards and producers! This allowed me to taste from many vineyards not easily accessible. In Savigny wines many of the vineyards produce very distinct wines. Savigny served a chèvre (goat cheese) on a piece of baguette. Ladoix had significantly fewer and overall, I was less impressed by the quality on offer. This is the stage at which Ladoix serves the “meal” with a plate of Boeuf Bourguignon and potatoes. Again in the tasting notes I will record our observations.

In the Savigny walk there is a unique station after the 1er Cru and it is sponsored by the Cousinerie de Bourgogne (The Cousins of Burgundy) a brotherly association of local wine lovers. They always pull a couple of great wines from their stocks. This year it was 1988 and 1992 Savigny-les-Beaune both bottled by the Cousinerie. This was served with a petit goût de fromage (a small taste of cheese). On the Ladoix walk we had more 1er Cru wines and an Assiette de Fromage (a plate with 3 cheeses - in this case served in a cheese box!) at a beautiful 12th century church.

Finally, on both walks the penultimate station (one of my favorites after a long hot march through the vineyards) is the Crémant! In both Savigny and Ladoix our favorite Parigot et Richard Crémant was served! It was so crisp and refreshing with a gougère (a small light pastry). Perfect!

Finally, on to either the Château de Savigny or the Château de Ladoix for the finish. In both cases, long tables are set under tents. There is a refreshment stand and a band playing. In the case of Savigny you have a sit-down dinner served family style to you and your neighbors, whom you have had the chance to meet all day long at the various stops! You also get a bottle of wine for every two people at Savigny (in-case you were spitting all day up to this point).

Flight 1 - Aligote (5 notes)

White
2008 Domaine Jean-Michel Giboulot Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
78 points
Average Aligote
White
2008 Domaine du Prieuré Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
78 points
Average Aligote.
White
2008 Domaine Philippe Girard Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
78 points
Passion fruit but too acid.
White
2008 Domaine Capron-Charcusset Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
82 points
This was the standout Aligote. It had fresh oak, green wood, butter, and a good balance.
White
2008 M. Doudet-Naudin Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
80 points
Pinot Grigio taste with a little butter.

Flight 2 - Blanc (Chardoney) (10 notes)

White
2008 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
80 points
Bold oak
White
2008 Domaine Capron-Charcusset Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
69 points
Substandard
White
2008 Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
80 points
White
2008 Domaine du Prieuré Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
80 points
Lemons, nutty, toast.
White
2008 Domaine Pierre Guillemot Savigny-lès-Beaune Dessus Les Gollardes Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
84 points
White
2008 M. Doudet-Naudin Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
82 points
Beautiful yellow color, nice nose, taste of lemons, oak, lillies.
White
2008 Domaine Pavelot (Jean-Marc et Hugues) Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
80 points
Banana and Lemons on the nose and palate. A little too acid.
White
2008 Domaine Jean-Michel Giboulot Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
87 points
Top white burgundy this year. On the nose peach and lemon. The pallet brings almonds, peach, lemons, honey, and the finish butter. Very nice and balanced.
White
2008 Michel Pont Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
80 points
Bland
White
2008 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
87 points
Toast, hay, and Lychee fruit. Very nice balance.

Flight 3 - Savigny Les Beaune - Village (7 notes)

Red
2006 Michel Pont Côte de Beaune France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune
80 points
Nice nose of prune and forest floor. A little off?
Red
2007 Domaine Camus-Bruchon & Fils Savigny-lès-Beaune France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
85 points
Great nose and nice dark red fruits and smoke. Good balance.
Red
2007 Henri de Villamont Savigny-lès-Beaune France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
84 points
The first year I remember Henri de Villamont participating. It is good one of the biggest producers in SLB is part of the event now. Strawberry nose. Vanilla, nice red fruits, and well balanced.
Red
2007 Domaine Philippe Girard Savigny-lès-Beaune France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
88 points
Strawberries and pine resin on the nose. Nice red fruits - raspberries and strawberries on the pallet.
Red
2007 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
89 points
Top of the village wines tasted from this year. Nice nose, a classic burgundy village wine with a long finish. Strawberries and dry tannins. Well balanced.
Red
2007 Patrick Jacob Girard Savigny-lès-Beaune France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
84 points
Immediate smooth cherries and nice fruit.
Red
2007 Michel Pont Savigny-lès-Beaune France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
78 points
Prunes, beets, green vegetables, tannic and bitter.

Flight 4 - Premier Cru (16 notes)

Red
2007 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Marconnets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
90 points
Faint nose. Nice fruits, smooth, and balanced.
Red
2007 Domaine Capron-Charcusset Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Peuillets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
88 points
Sweet caramel and hard candy on the nose. Smooth tannins and sweet fruit finish.
Red
2007 Louis Jadot Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Vergelesses Domaine Louis Jadot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
84 points
Nose of asparagus and broccoli was a little off putting. Although some of group found it "interesting". It did not carry forward to the palate so strongly.
Red
2007 Domaine Camus-Bruchon & Fils Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
88 points
A lighter wine than the other vineyards. Perfume, cherries, lilies, on the nose and palate.
Red
2006 Philippe Dubreuil-Cordier Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Charnières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
92 points
Light color with a nose cherries. Taste of toffee, blackberries, cherries, and strawberry jam.
Red
2007 Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Rouvrettes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
92 points
Nose of spice, tobacco and chocolate. These follow through to the taste along with bright cherries and a caramel finish. Firm tannins and a keeping wine.
Red
2008 Domaine Philippe Girard Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Narbantons France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
94 points
The top rated 1er Cru wine from this year. Considering it was the youngest - only a 2008 it should develop nicely. Dark cherries, red licorice, pine on the palate. A very long finish. Narbantons consistently produces one of the deeper wines from Savigny.
Red
2007 Domaine Jean-Michel Giboulot Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Serpentières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
93 points
Caramel and nutmeg nose. Toast, cherries, nutmeg, prunes, and brown sugar. Very agreeable wine with a caramel finish and noticeable tannins.
Red
2007 Domaine Pierre Guillemot Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Jarrons France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
93 points
Strawberries, chocolate, and vanilla. Strong tannins on the finish. A great wine for food and cheese.
Red
2007 Patrick Jacob Girard Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Gravains France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
93 points
Fruity strawberry and cherry nose. On the palate red licorice, cassis, black current, and caramel. A very round wine.
Red
2007 Domaine du Prieuré Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Hauts Jarrons France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
87 points
Nose of horse. Taste of chestnuts and caramel. Long finish but a little acidic.
Red
2007 Domaine Doudet Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Guettes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
90 points
Raspberries, prunes, licorice with a dry caramel finish.
Red
2007 Domaine Pavelot (Jean-Marc et Hugues) Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
89 points
Cassis and prunes. Heavy and tannic and dry at this age. Should mature nicely.
Red
2007 Henri de Villamont Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Guettes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
88 points
Interesting melon and cucumber nose and taste with a caramel finish.
Red
2007 Philippe Dubreuil-Cordier Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Talmettes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
93 points
Drinking great right now. This wine has a nose of mushrooms which carries over to the mouth with nice red fruits, spices, and great caramel finish.
Red
2007 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Fournaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
88 points
A light smooth wine with honey, epoisses, toast, and red licorice.

Flight 5 - Cousinerie de Bourgogne (2 notes)

Red
1992 La Cousinerie De Bourgogne Savigny-lès-Beaune France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
94 points
A little leaner and younger tasting wine that the 96. Still very nicely aging with dark cherries and jammy Fruits des Bois.
Red
1988 La Cousinerie De Bourgogne Savigny-lès-Beaune France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
93 points
A well aged but lively wine with rich tobacco, chocolate, and plums. Long velvety finish. I quit spitting at this point and had a couple of glasses!

Flight 6 - Creamants (1 note)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Parigot & Richard Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Burgundy, Crémant de Bourgogne
90 points
What an excellent way to end a long hot day in the sunny vineyards of Savigny les Beaune. The cremant was a perfect temperature and very refreshing. The Blanc de Blancs has a distinctive green apple nose that follows through to the palate with toast, nuts, nice acidity, perfect effervescence, and a refreshing finish.

Closing

Anyway these events are great fun. If you haven’t done one check out http://www.baladesgourmandes.com/ and do it the next chance you have!

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