Important Update From the Founder

Burgundy Offline

The Square - London

Tasted May 22, 2006 by Russell Faulkner with 874 views

Introduction

A truly memorable offline, the premise (inspired by a similar event recently, comparing Bordeaux second wines in a good year vs the grand vin in a poor year) was to compare a grand cru wine, from a weaker year, with the village wine from a stronger year. In some cases it was possible to compare the same producer, in some not...

The Square did an amazing job, unparalleled, each wine served in fresh, identical glassware, the food was of an amazing standard throughout, I will admit to a little concern about the Langoustines but it went with the wine magically, and may be the best thing I have eaten all year, every dish married with the wine as well as could be dreamt of.

Very hard to 'score' wines like this, so any attempt I have made should not be taken too seriously.

Wines all provided by the participants:
Tom Blach
Nigel Platts-Martin
Jeremy Carne
Mark Palmer
Chris Longstaff
Bryan Collins
Steve Matteo
Linden Wilkie
Russell Faulkner

Flight 2 (2 notes)

The first six wines were served with a 'Consomme and Ravioli of Wild Mushrooms with a Morel Cream'

Red

1999 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis

Quite closed, some sweet cherry, low acid, not very giving on the palate, nice depth though, something a little hard about it, maybe dense is a better description than hard. ~90 pts.

Comment

Red

1997 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru

Quite aged, light brick rim, some coca-cola, a little unclean, initially pleasant if simple, something green grew quickly though and it degraded quickly. Short ~85 pts (for the first 10 minutes)

Comment

Flight 3 (2 notes)

Red

1999 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

Quite dark, some serious tannins, a little metallic on the finish, there was talk of TCA (I didn't get any), elegant and round, quite big, seemed to soften with time. ~87 pts.

Comment

Red

1997 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

Slightly volitile? quite an unusual wine, very sweet finish, grew a little wild in the glass, hedonisitic even, odd. ~90 pts.

Comment

Flight 4 (2 notes)

Red

1999 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

Almost inky, very perfumed, darkest wine of the night, some aniseed, seductive if simple. ~87pts.

Comment

Red

1992 Claude Dugat Charmes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

Slight bricking, quite deep, full, dense, velvet great balance, very long, with time degraded a little, something a bit brighton rock, minty sweet, wish I had it in the glass longer. ~93 pts (for initial showing)

Comment

Flight 5 (2 notes)

Served with a 'Warm Mousseline of Pigeon with Mousserons and Snails'

Red

1995 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis

Quite light colour, slight nose, a little thin, but grew and developed in the glass. ~88 pts.

Comment

Red

1986 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

Light, very young, a restrained nose, classy though, great class, lightness and balance great poise, super stuff. ~95 pts.

Comment

Flight 6 (2 notes)

Served with 'Saute of Langoustines with Parmesan Gnocci and Truffle Butter'

Red

1993 Domaine René Engel Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée

dark, inky, beautiful saline nose, super balance, but perhaps too big, too much tannin, not sure how this will develop, maybe it is just stunted at present, too young? ~93 pts.

Comment

Red

2000 Domaine René Engel Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

Saline, I liked this much more than most others, medium weight, great balance, quite special. ~93 pts.

Comment

Flight 7 (2 notes)

Served with 'Roast Turbot with a Risotto of Morels, Roasting Juices and Red Wine'

Red

1998 Domaine René Engel Grands-Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

Disapointing, othing on the other two Engel wines, fine but out classed. ~87 Pts.

Comment

Red

1990 Domaine Jean Chauvenet Nuits St. Georges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges

Georgous, complex and deep, spicy velvet just right. ~94 Pts.

Comment

Flight 8 (2 notes)

'Served with 'Herb Crusted Saddle of Lamb with Shallot Puree and Rosemary'

Red

1988 Domaine Denis Bachelet Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

Closed? quite mature looking, initially simple, overwhelmed by grippy tannin and high acid, but it came round quite quickly, still not sure here. ~92 Pts.

Comment

Red

1976 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

Young, some bricking, quite light, a little dried, a wine to sink into complex. ~90 Pts.

Comment

Flight 9 (2 notes)

Red

1992 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

Darker, iodine, sweet and sour, great depth, so long, super. ~94 Pts.

Comment

Red

1998 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

Quite seductive, highish oak, plummy, nice spice, very bright. ~91 Pts.

Comment

Flight 10 (2 notes)

Red

2000 Henri et Gilles Remoriquet Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Bousselots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

Very bright, acidity a little disjointed, modern? ~89 Pts.

Comment

Red

1999 Henri et Gilles Remoriquet Nuits St. Georges Les Allots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges

Quite confected, high tannins, not great tonight. @86 Pts.

Comment

Flight 11 (4 notes)

A perfect selection of cheeses, before a 'Brillat-Savarin and Fig Cheesecake with Almond Milk and Lavender Ice Cream'

White - Sweet/Dessert

1996 Reichsrat Von Buhl Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Germany, Pfalz

Mango, passionfruit, very full, just a bit more acid please! ~95 Pts.

Comment

White - Sweet/Dessert

1990 Château Guiraud France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

Burnt sugar, a little dumb, afraid I struggled to get excited. ~88 Pts.

Comment

Red

1992 Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

Amazingly young, strict, animal blood, a wild thing, not easy but great. ~95 Pts.

Comment

Red

1993 Domaine Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

I struggled with this, others liked it much more, Very young, perhaps simple? ~88 Pts.

Comment

Closing

This was a much harder call than the Bordeaux version, so many more considerations, but in most instances I preferred the grand cru wine. The Faiveley, Ponsot, Rousseau Chambertin, Chauvenet and Engel Vosne were the stars for me, but every single wine had something great to offer.

Burgundy Offline

The Square - London

Introduction

Flight 2 (2 notes)

Flight 3 (2 notes)

Flight 4 (2 notes)

Flight 5 (2 notes)

Flight 6 (2 notes)

Flight 7 (2 notes)

Flight 8 (2 notes)

Flight 9 (2 notes)

Flight 10 (2 notes)

Flight 11 (4 notes)

Closing

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